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  1. Today
  2. Direct Line logs

    Once again thanks for posting, the issues raised are a world wide issue🤔 Sent from my SM-G930F using KiteLife mobile app
  3. Still searching for an Prism Eclipse ??

    Sent from my SM-N920I using KiteLife mobile app
  4. Yesterday
  5. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    @happysuperbutton Short answer is practice and break down the move into segments.. Instead of 180's try 90 degrees and an intentional pause to make sure you have a stable hover at that point. Then finish your rotation.. Many times you'll find that you have too much slip or too much lift at that 90 degree point and that's where you are losing your static tip point.. JB's Basic Hover drills video will make a huge improvement in this stepped maneuver for you. As an interim drill, draw squares with your leading edge.. (90 degrees on right tip followed by 90 degrees on left tip rotating the same direction on the opposite tip, repeat until your LE has formed a perfect square in the sky and kite has made exactly one full rotation.)That will help you discern your hover when vertical as well as the transition between the maneuvers. Try flag out for verticals and then flag in.. (Sail on outside of square when vertical followed by sail on inside when vertical..) Basically start with kite upright for first drill and then start next drill from inverted start. It sounds harder than it actually is but it will attune you quickly to your kite and establish foundations to build upon. It will also help you see the sky as a grid since you are literally drawing LE sized squares on your field of vision.
  6. Yeah, I was confused a little on the tension at first then I watched a few videos. I haven't flown the sf yet. I think I'm just going to send it back and spend the little extra money and get an ATM. Sent from my Lenovo TB-X103F using KiteLife mobile app
  7. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    There is not really any particular starting handle position for this move, since it can be initiated from any direction, position or other move that you are doing. One way to learn tip turns (pivots) is to fly SLOWLY in a circle in either direction and keep making the circle smaller and smaller until the kite is pivoting around the tip. You can even make it pivot around the top tip of the upright if you make the circle small enough. Usually it will be easier for you in one direction than the other. Practice both directions so you can do both equally well. Spend some extra time in the direction you find more difficult. On a side note, if your lines, bridle, etcetera, are not all symmetrically adjusted, one direction will always be "a little bit off". There isn't really a good way to explain how to do this. It will come to you automatically if you just practice making your turns tighter and tighter each time you fly. Basic explanation is that you are retarding motion in one tip while flying the other forward. That means brake to one and forward to the other. Ladders will look better, once you have your tip pivots down pat, if you abruptly stop all motion at the end of each half-circle. There is no miracle instruction that will allow you to just go out and do this instantly. These are refinements of the moves you are already doing that will become smoother and tighter with time spent flying. Watch the basic control tutorials and keep an eye on what JB does with his hands. Happy Thanksgiving.
  8. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    Looking for pointers/technique preferences/video for mastering a "tip turn", especially horizontally. Right to left, and left to right. Not bicycle/center pivot spin. This is when the kite turns on the end cap. Imagine Ladder but horizontally. And also instead of 180 (tip up to down), doing a 360 tip turn. Mainly looking for information on the starting hand positions and what fundamentals I'm actually going to be combining to actually achieve this move. I can somewhat do the ladder vertically but horizontally sometimes I get one good tip turn and the follow up turns are a mess. And I'm not able to understand what I'm doing that made the one good tip turn. When the wind is gusting and I get a lot of speed, I can get a few tip turns too, but not consistent and perfectly on the tip, sometimes it will pivot around the verticle spar tip instead, and lastly, I can't do it slowly to show control/mastership of the tip turn. Thanks and have a wonderful Thanksgiving all! (Please let there be wind..)
  9. Exactly as I did it. And you can cover a pair of vents to get a mid-vent. Still only have the std and the full vent. But on the other hand, it might not be your way since you seem always have some minimum wind. And if close zero wind happens at some rare occasion, perhaps you have another (non quad) kite for that time? This was really a good feature of my B-series. If they wouldn't have been included I'd still not (knowing myself) would have access to 2 and 4 wrap spars. This has given me the possibility to work on sail loading and controlling the flex. If you are past the panicking and pulling the lines hard close to the ground don't fear breaking the 2 wrap spars. I can much recommend to get frames to be able to meet various wind conditions. You want to be able to curve the LE by pulling the handles to create forward drive. A constantly curved LE in too hard wind or a too stiff LE in light wind that you cannot curve is equally bad. There are some discussions here on other (cheaper and more expensive) spars which I also need to learn more from. Don't know. I picked stuff up here and there on the forum... The process was nice though a bit slow, e.g. I was long confused about long leaders - thought you put them in series with the existing one on the handle... The videos are good though, also for terminology.. So Sweden and nearby countries also seems to be full of them. If I would have known any kiter in Finland I could have gone there on a cheap nice large ferry boat trip (the ferries instead make their living much on tax free and food), but as we all know there is no Finland, https://skeptoid.com/episodes/4573 . I daily see hoards of kiters here that I can exchange valuable information with. Likewise I get valuable experience before purchases by testing their gear ...No, I've not seen any non beginner multi line (DLK and QLK) pilot during this millennium with the exception of power foils. The only two framed quads that I've ever seen are my own. Perhaps the situation is different on the Swedish west coast?
  10. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    Don't need a stake in this scenario - Setup kite on its back, LE towards your flying position. Put some snow on the LE, then run your lines out to handles. Gradually pull the tips up as the LE is held down by the snow. We use this method a lot at festivals that have limited space and kites need to be cleared off the field for other performers. We call it - "red bulling" - gets you on and off fast!
  11. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    Thank you for that piece of advice - just need to locate the one remaining aluminium budget carabiner at home. Could also serve as a bit far fetched argument to get more kites (to add necessary weight to the kite bag...)... Was thinking, perhaps one can do without any stake here. Drive a part of the kite into the snow at an angle towards the wind and then use the handles to pull it lose from the snow back into action. However if there happen to be an ice crust on the snow, the any mesh panels might be damaged? For the B-series standard (non vented) at least I guess one could let the snow only hold the non meshed rear panels - not the LE.
  12. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    Carabiner clip the handles to your kite bag if the tundra is solid
  13. Last week
  14. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    Climate/weather considerations regarding the longevity of your kites Old rain = mud, and will get your kite dirty, dry conditions or new rain will remove dirt. Flying on a thick enough layer of soft snow - there are no limitations in handing over to a beginner - they can't crash it except for snapping the stand offs if the kite get stuck (no no why are you looking at me? ). Abrasion get much reduced on icy ground, but you might suddenly damage a split nock if you happen to tip stab or 2 point-land hard. Is it possible to damage an QLK LE end cap by tip stabbing on hard and/or frozen ground? Salt water - exotic matter occasionally encountered when travelling. Must admit that I went soft though and did dry my f/v 1.5 B-series and my Infinity (but without removing the mud) after my latest session. OMG I suddenly realize, will I be able to drive the (QLK) kite stake into the ground during the whole forthcoming winter (and if so would certain conditions require a metal detector to find the handles again?)? It will be my first winter as a QLK pilot so I haven't had to deal with this issue before and when handling a single DLK in everything except for very hard wind, a kite stake is not so important.
  15. General publics reaction to kites

    Had another quote from public I hadn't had before today, Them-do you need assistance, Me-no it's supposed to be in there, At which point he turned to his wife puzzled and said well I never, LOL Sent from my SM-G930F using KiteLife mobile app
  16. General publics reaction to kites

    They where told that these came first[emoji4] Sent from my SM-G930F using KiteLife mobile app
  17. Monark (indoor/outdoor) 11/24/17

    Not if I also decide to go after my own item. lol
  18. tbh i'm pretty much like you. had a small starter kite, then got a better kite, then got a silverfox there's also this thread which was quite useful to me. I took some time figuring out how to tension the wing. leech line is easier to understand thankfully. don't hesitate to ask questions, no doubt e can help each other out with our new toys http://kitelife.com/forum/topic/8216-silver-fox-23-ul-wing-tip-tension-help/
  19. Oh ok. Thanks. I would be happy to. I'll have to do a little research to see exactly where I should be measuring to and from. I'm still pretty new at this. I wouldn't want to give you the wrong measurements. Sent from my Lenovo TB-X103F using KiteLife mobile app
  20. Newbie Bay Area friends and Rev learning tips

    Ride it hard, that's when they are the most fun, put it away wet too, rolled up tightly, stuffed into an overpacked kite bag, never rinsed a kite or anything else kite related in my entire life (wait!, the misses does launder my Gortex) Will it wear out?, sure but you'll want a new one long before it does anyway! NEVER ever give a lesson if you are trying to preserve your new kite for your grand-children
  21. Computer software to help kite design?

    I needed a kite bag made for some baby Ryvs, so I sent this sketch to Brianne Howard she could print it out and fold it up to see how I wanted it You can use half of it or the whole thing together. case two.pdf
  22. Computer software to help kite design?

    when you can afford it "adobe Illustrator" allows you to specific Pantone Matching System colors (PMS is the language of color standards for various industries), apply tint percentages (opaque or 1/2 of one percent) and overlap colors (it matters what fabric color sequence order is on top) to see how it comes out. Vector Artwork is created. You can scale it to full size for a paper template ,or map it to a cutter, be it laser or a knifed edge directly. You can ink-jet a sail on a roll fed printer (uncoated nylon) or have it sent out for DyeSublimation process on Icarex marrying both heat and pressure for a color set thats' truly permanent (Spiro styled Rev kites are an example) I wouldn't have it except for the working requirements of my employment position. Worth the money? YES it certainly is! here's a quick sketch as an example, "dumbed down" to fit here thru a PDF squeeze 1.5_FSK_french_copy.pdf
  23. Still searching for an Prism Eclipse ??

    Have PM Sent from my SM-N920I using KiteLife mobile app
  24. from what i understand the sail material is different (ventex polyester for the std and icarex pc31 for the pro) don't forget to send me some bridle mersurements
  25. Monark (indoor/outdoor) 11/24/17

    Looks like Anthony and I have pretty good odds on this right now. 4 more days.
  26. I was supposed to be getting a sf 2.3 pro today but instead they sent me a sf 2.3 STD. I was wondering what are the differences between the two. Sent from my Lenovo TB-X103F using KiteLife mobile app
  27. Handle length

    I'm also with Paul on longer better for lower wind.
  28. Handle length

    I'm with Paul on this one - Lighter wind = longer handles for me. I use 3 different sets - 13", 14", 15" for different wind conditions. The 14" are my "standard handles", probably used 75% of the time. They are a good compromise set - a little longer, but not too long, for almost all my usual flying. 13" work great in screaming wind and I'm on my X/V, no need for all the extra leverage the long provide. Shorter give me more control. Light winds see the 15" come out. I just feel more comfortable with them in light winds. Not sure if the "technical" term is leverage, but I feel a bit more lift, a bit more control, with the longer in those conditions. If you're wondering how I have 14", since the way they are measured from the factory is before bending and Rev only offers handles in odd inch sizes (13", 15", etc), I had mine made for me. Same gent that makes JB's dogstake, made them. I had him bend them a little flatter (less), more like my Indoor handles. Gives me a bit extra brake already built in! Gotten so used to them that picking up stock handles with the rings, takes a bit to readjust my inputs! And that is my roundabout way to say it is all about developing your own personal "feel"!
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