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  • Latest Posts

    • Rods: The difference ?
      Anything you wrap around a section of a tube will make the tube stronger in that area; even a wrap of painters' tape or a mylar label that's glued on will increase the strength of the tube in that area very slightly. For instance, if you put a tight-fitting steel sleeve, say about 3" long, in the middle of a tubular spar and glue it in position, then intentionally flex the tube to break it, it will always break right at one end (possibly both) of the steel sleeve. It's like breaking a two-piece spar that is joined using an external ferrule. It will never break inside of the ferrule -- ask any SLK guy! Spars joined using internal ferrules will usually break in the area over the ferrule, unless reinforced with a sleeve, either permanent or temporary, which can be just an extra wrap or two at the ends of the tube. See the ends of the newer spars -- they are thicker than the rest of the tube. However, if you put some additional wraps/finish in the middle of the spar tube, it makes that area stiffer than the rest which makes the response quicker. Returns to straight faster after flexing. A tapered tube will yield similar results (fishing rod "actions"). The taper can be straight, parabolic or hyperbolic, even combinations of all three (you don't even want to know what the price of that kind of frame would be!!!!). Take a look at the price of some high-end fishing rods.  Perplexing, ain't it? Damn, I love physics!
    • SLK Diamond Dive Bombing
      Yup, move the Prusik towards the top knot in stronger wind, towards the lower in lighter wind on the Prism. You can make one to use on the Wham-O quite easily. Make a mark using a marker above and below next to the knot that forms the attachment loop. These will be your reference points like the knots on the Prism's bridle. Untie the knot and tie a loop with the Prusik onto the bridle. Voila, adjustable. Don't worry about the extra length you've given the bridle by doing this -- it's the ratio of above to below the attachment point that counts. You can make the bridle 10 feet long if you want, as long as the ratio stays the same it will fly, i.e., 1:4 is the same as 2:8. If you can't undo the knot in the bridle line just make a new one using any reasonable susbstitute. What is making the kites turn left is more surface area on the side of the sail to the right of the vertical spine. Any which way you can move the upright very slightly to the right to increase the sail area on the left side will make it fly straight also, but is more difficult to do. You can shorten the right-side cross spar 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch, a little at a time to accomplish this, but it will decrease the amount of tension on the sail. Other option is to "increase the length" of the left spar by shortening the depth of the pocket it fits into at the tip of the sail. Sew it, glue it, or simply stuff something into it so the spar can't go as far in as it originally did. Or a combination of the two, increase one and decrease the other. Just remember that a little goes a long way, because when you change the distance on one side you are simultaneously changing it by the same amount on the other. So a change of 1/16 of an inch on one side equals an overall change of 1/8 of inch. And if you think this is scary, just wait 'til you have to mess with the bridle on a dual- or quad-line kite. Ouch! P.S. -- If you're not familiar with adjusting the position of a Prusik knot, Google "prusik knot in kiting" and look at a few of the listings to see how to lock and unlock the knot.
    • Rods: The difference ?
      The rods won't change properties, Rob, during their lifetime - BUT the next set (of the same rods) you buy might have different properties than those you own now! Check to see if you have "green label" rods ( silver labels with green bands at the ends) or older, just silver labels. The older rods are stiffer (quick reflex) and break less often than the newer green label rods. Same with race rods, they flex differently and break more easily now (those with the GL)!  Still haven't determined if it was a mess up in production procedure, recipe for these specialty rods (remember they let Ben go and he was the tinkerer with rods!), or what. Just know they feel and act different from what was out in the past under the same label! Lolly tried to make it out like we were setting up wrong! Something about the rods having a spine? In all my time flying Revs, I've NEVER thought about direction of the rods as I set up a kite - EVER! Just thrown them in! To try and tell me that I've been doing it wrong feels like an insult! Something is up and I don't know what! But they won't admit it might be on their end! This doesn't seem to be a problem in the "wrap" rods! It doesn't seem to have changed them, or if it has, not enough for folks to notice. The issue shows up in the 2 specialty rods - diamonds and bl. race! My advice is this - if you have older rods in good shape - keep them! Reglue those ferrules and just keep using them! You may or may not be happy with your next set!  
    • Synergy deca zero wind
      These are beautiful kites, but fly VERY different from a Rev! I tried Scott Weider's at WSIKF once and found that out - real quick like!! Marc R. is no longer in business, so the used market is about the only way to get your hands on one. He does still have the plans though and still makes a very very few on special order - such as the ones for Toruk! If anyone is interested and has the cash - get it while it's out there!
    • Rods: The difference ?
      Ok. Was a bit worried that my diamonds would stiffen. Or my next set might behave a little different. Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app
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