Exult

Kitelife Subscriber
  • Content count

    312
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Exult last won the day on November 25

Exult had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

279 Scholar

About Exult

  • Rank
    Kitelife Regular

Profile Information

  • Favorite Kite(s)
    HQ: Jam Session, Maestrale, Infinity, Fazer XL, Tramontana Prism: Elixir, Alien
  • Flying Since
    1998
  • Location
    Stockholm
  • Country
    Sweden
  • Interests
    A bit of: Tennis, doing craft like stuff in the backyard, Linux/electronics/programming, skiing...
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

1,430 profile views
  1. Beautiful Evil

    Playful and imaginative!
  2. Line length

    Friction increase with time of use of the Spectra line and they are therefore not as slippery as a new one. Isn't a problem using a spectra line as a SUL bridle that it is a bit too slippery to hold knots? I had some minor issues (but somewhat annoying) with my HQ Shadow bridle (which I believe is spectra/Dyneema) before. A high friction Spectra line then sound more fit to be used a SUL bridle, thus giving a second life to some old lines? (nope never made any bridles from scratch what so ever). A nice line length if the field easily allows it, giving you room for both tricking and more relaxed figure flying. Usually go between 20m and 25m 38kg (66' and 82' 84lbs) and 15m 25kg (39' 55lbs) for low wind flying. I believe having time on the 20m set teaches you to make use of the available space, making the 25m feel like a luxury length. I guess if I'd take the consequence of this I'd make more use of the 15m 38kg (49' 84lbs) in medium wind to really learn to be economic with space or try street kiting perhaps? Street kiting b.t.w. is short lines yes, but is it always performed in light wind too? Prefer at least 25m lines when towing my 23m (75') Prism tails.
  3. Widow ng

    Hmm a speed kite can be quite small and pull quite much for their size (check line recommendations e.g.). The Fazers I got are more robust normal DLK than speed kites. So robust that they can be up in any wind that you I can handle and therefore becomes fast. But I can still trick those kites, so I kind of doubt that they are "pure" speed kites. I need to start using my Atrax and the Speedwing arriving soon to be able to make a comparison. In general I don't think a speed kite is a good trick option. Perhaps go for a vented DLK kite if you want to reduce pull and still be able to do some tricking in higher wind, but to my experience, moving your tricking from the centre of the wind window to the edge of the wind window can also do that. Go OPK to find out about speed kites if you can (I can't with a reasonable amount of effort)! Well pastures doesn't really need to be such bad places for kiting. One might even find a loyal audience: http://kitelife.com/forum/topic/8233-minchhampton-common/?do=findComment&comment=66603 What kind of pasture (b.t.w.)? Something that you maintain?
  4. Welcome Justin2kites

    Must say that compared to me you did/attempt the Lazy Susans much earlier than I did. If we talk the belly pop up launch (a low wind start) it can look dramatic IMO. People can also be surprised by any low wind flying in that it is possible at all. And one can always try to expand the trick repertoire (obviously).. If you don't do it already, figure flying is easily understood by a bystander and is certainly worth practicing (don't stop perfecting and challenging yourself here though). However there might be other moves that is currently your focus and points of most development. Also, the result of practice, a series of well performed moves, should not be boring to a bystander - and if it would, so what? You need room for practice new stuff to progress in your way! A too high amount of known "crowd pleasing" moves takes time from your development as a pilot (and would I be "accused" of this I'd instantly plead guilty as charged). Never intended to take any fun out of it though for either party, though the audience side might need to wait sometimes - after all it is your spare time, effort and kites.
  5. Widow ng

    When being new to DLKs during snap stalls I could accidentally snap a LS. They were not plugged closest to the centre-T by design. The centre T was of the type surrounding the tube. Once the inner side of my Jam Session and Maestrale LS were plugged this never happened again. The other time I've done this type of reinforcement on the inside was on a LLE by glueing a 1dm long carbon fibre rod in the inside of the 8mm tube just where the lower spreader connects when replacing the original LLE of my Fazer XL. If you keep the original LE/LS fitting, reinforcing on the inside, this is the possibility that remains. In this case the batten fitting also makes it extra crowded. Since it has only snapped on one side, only one side has been reinforced - and no I can't feel that the kite would have become unsymmetrical in any way. You must be seriously patient! I'm sorry for being of poor help here - I can't really say that speed kites are my thing, nor that English is my native tongue. Honestly, I'm a bit uncertain of the difference of a camber and a billow.
  6. Widow ng

    Hmmm - perhaps I should first apply a thin layer of that stuff on the inside of the heat shrink tube to be able to remove it later? Though care must be taken not to accidentally put any of it where the epoxy actually should stick to. Thank you for your kind comments - you two almost make me blush. And @Lisa Bernard / Kiteworld , perhaps it is me who has entered the dorky path of spar repairs. I have just placed the order on a Speedwing X1 (EUR 47) i.a. for the main purpose of doing "industrial espionage". You see I also never built a kite (in any in modern material). In the book "Stuntkites II, Servaas van det Horst, Nop Velthuizen, 2nd revision from 1995" they compare (and describe the build process) a Speedwing with a flat sail and one with a billow. The one with a billow pulled more and more even in the whole wind window. It was also easier to launch and also made it more quiet. Well functioning wings and sails (trick kites might differ having other priorities than creating speed and traction) typically have a billow. For a kite to be a speed kite or a power kite you need an efficient wing therefore I'd assume that they would have a billow. So it looks like you will need to deal with a billow here. (Another bonus with the Speedwing purchase might be that I get some traction* to learn using the old demanding Atrax speed kite). *My children object to frequent puns like this one, which a happily disregard. From the Description text of the kite store: "The secret of the Speedwing is the lack of a vertical rod which allows the sail to optimally bulge out in any given wind speed. The Speedwing is fitted with a special coupe in the sail which improves its aerodynamic shape. This shape helps in making the kite faster, pull harder and make less noise." I didn't plan to say anything about the Speedwing/build plans (which might change, prefer to have started the process before outing anything), but it kind of fitted the situation to bring it up. In the end is not really a speed/power kite that "happens to be the current plan/play of thoughts", but I'll say no more here and now. Should get more familiar with my sewing machine, before I ruin any ripstop etc... To give a perspective I've had the above book for more than 15 years without producing any kites.
  7. Widow ng

    There is no need to go capital text here. We are all brothers and sisters in kiting . Yes and no and funny that you said so (since the most elaborate repair was just before a festival). The history of epoxy repairs so far: . The first one was on the Infinity lower spreader using little glass fibre and no heat shrink tube, the small fissures returned from small notches at the end but was still usable - is still using that spar and have not invested in any replacements.* (Original) cause of failure: too hard input just above the ground. The second one was repairing a stand off of the Fazer XL. Instead of using heat shrink tubing I used tape - the result was quite ugly and required much horrible sanding (really dislike glass fibre dust) before it looked OK. Cause of failure: stuck in snow and I didn't observe that the line was wrapped around the wing. The third one was one of my Kymeras when repairing an upper to lower LE connection. This was just days before a kite festival that the kite broke and I had no spare tubes at home. At festivals I never carry epoxy, heat gun, glass fibre and heat shrink tubes, but then the festivals I've been to only lasts a few hours. This Kymera repair, that is still working b.t.w., was the second iteration/attempt of a epoxy spar repair. The things I had with me from the Infinity repair was, don't leave a notch at the end and make it stronger, which I tried to implement using more glass and a higher glass to epoxy ratio. Cause of failure: multiple Kymera to Kymera in air collisions and a failed pancake (flare)landing on hard dry ground - wasn't prepared for the slow flare/pitch movement with the tail weight removed. The fourth one was a stand off of my Fazer XXL. Did the repair at the same time as the Kymera one - had all the gear out anyway. Cause of failure: Too impatient and hard launch without noticing that the line was wrapped around the wing. One could argue that repairing stand offs takes about the same time as replacing with new better looking slightly lighter ones. In this case one should consider that the Fazers are quite heavy kites. I see it as an investment in skill that the repair rather than the replacement gives me. Being good at repairs gives you more options, e.g. why not try using a lighter spar and harden at sensitive parts before it breaks somewhere? Will the repairs last? Well it is always difficult to make forecasts - especially about the future . But if you don't try a particular method you won't learn if it works out or not. The Infinity repair didn't last. It broke again. Especially at the whitish fissure closest to the sharpest largest notch the whitish fissure. In the higher magnification images you can see the individual broken glass fibres. That the higher magnification images appear mostly fuzzier follows by laws of optics - the higher magnification microscope objective the lower depth of focus. The last image I more or less included because it was nice to see the carbon fibres of the tube and the almost invincible glass fibres in the epoxy. This is from the Kymera LE repair. I was careful to increase the glass fibre content and to leave no notches remaining at the end of the spar. Unfortunately I have no better pre repair images than the first image. Disregard those narrow rings of green heat shrink tubing in the before image - they did not provide enough force to hold the parts together during the CA-gluing and was therefore not used. Looking carefully at the cross section of the finished repair one can see the tube, the glass fibre epoxy repair and the heat shrink tube stack. * Kind of reminds me of a thing a have heard of airliners, a fissure doesn't mean that the (crucial) part is replaced - just that the crack progress is being monitored. Does anyone know if this is true? On the other hand, the stress is not uniform along the spar, so a well placed reinforcement should be able to increase the strength. Perhaps a gradual transition could improve this matter?
  8. Welcome Justin2kites

    any video of this? Check out the ground pancake from this Dodd Gross HQ video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dn9K2L-5hyY at 00:40 Yes, here is also the belly launch showed. You can find it in Prisms "The advance way to fly" from the nineties, in this Belly launch section: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kkpzy3fHF7k You would also be able to see something like it it in the corresponding HQ one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYWh7FVvJsI However the belly launch here is more of a fade launch, which requires more wind for the fade to last. These old videos are inspirational - there is always something to improve and rehearse!! Even if you think you know it - how well and reliably can you do it and under what conditions?
  9. Widow ng

    Another way to make a bit more permanent repair (or perhaps prevent future failures) is to repair using epoxy, a fair amount of glass fibres, mini amount of CA glue and then heat shrink tubing. OK, a little work intensive, but sometimes you are out of options. Assuming cracks at the spar going around the ferrule one way of repairing would be: Use as little as possible of the CA glue just to keep the broken parts in their proper places during the repair. Prepare a reasonable amount of glass fibre bundle about 3dm long be used later. Don't use to little, since the glass adds to the strength. Put a temporary spar with the same dimensions as the ferrule in the centre to prevent epoxy going into the broken tube in such a way that it would be blocked. Mix the epoxy thoroughly and quickly. If you dare, put some epoxy on the inner spar to distribute and repair from the inside. Don't know if some fat on the inner temporary spar would make it less prone to get stuck. Soak the bundle in epoxy so every part of it is properly wetted by the epoxy. At this stage it doesn't matter if there is a bit too much epoxy - much of it will be removed by the heat shrinking tube. Wrap the soaked fibres around the broken rod. Put the heat shrink tube over the repaired part. Also let a small part of the heat shrink tube cover the end of the broken spar. Apply the heat by using the heat gun. The idea here is to drive out excessive leftover epoxy (avoid shrinking the two edges of the heat shrink tube as this could trap the epoxy inside the heat shrink tube), get the repair nice and round and to cure it faster. Much of the epoxy get pressed out of the tube leaving the strong fibres remaining. A bonus of the epoxy moving in the direction of the axis of the spar is that it should cover any small notches at the end of the spar from the original cracks that later could be the starting point of new cracks. Constantly move the inner temporary spar so that it doesn't get stuck permanently (which would of course be a disaster). When the epoxy is jelly like. take a sharp knife and cut lose the part of the epoxy/glass fibre/heat shrink tube that goes outside the end of the broken spar (leaving some margin - ideally less than a 1mm so you don't have to sandpaper so much). Remove the temporary central spar. When the epoxy is hard, sandpaper the end of the repaired spar to the original length so that the end surface becomes flat. If the ferrule is difficult to get into the repaired tube, use a small file or sand paper to widen it. Enjoy the feeling of accomplishment or learn from any mistakes. Added info in edit: I'd say that the 0th thing I do whenever gluing anything on a carbon fibre spar, whether it is by CA glue or epoxy, is to de-regrease using propanol and possibly some sand papering of the spar surface (though I've not really compared to not doing it). Second is that the images of this repair can be found in the images describing the LE repair (with the blue heat shrink tube and blue bottle...) here a few posts further on ( http://kitelife.com/forum/topic/8458-widow-ng/?do=findComment&comment=68335 ).
  10. Welcome Justin2kites

    Which is the reason why the 4d is eyeing me. right now all i do when there's no wind is equalizing lines While waiting for a low wind kite, use the time to learn something that can be of use for any kite in low wind: One can practice stalls, one almost got the barely flying state for "free". You can also practice Fly Aways (gaining ground flying the kite downwards). Start normally with you hands as far from you as possible, pull the kite high up in the wind window by backing while pulling your arms behind your back. Now turn down. Run/move forward and try to get the nose of the kite slightly out from you (kite is still flying straight downwards), while you move forward to gain ground (by moving down wind). Just before the kite reaches the ground (you are still moving forward) fling your arms out to flare the kite two decimeters above the ground. When the kite has landed pull one line so that one wing get one dm closer to you. Lightly pop the other line to make the kite take off by spinning around to clear the nose from the ground. You can vary the belly pop up launches: make them small and efficient, make the kite jump high up or make the launch into a tilted fade that you immediately flies out from. If you don't already know everything of the above, it should keep you occupied in low wind for a while. And the good news is that the low wind makes it very unlikely that something would break even it the above suggested exercises would be new to you. The only warning I'd like to give is that to be gentle when doing the belly pop up launch so that the sail is not hocked on a thorn, the kite is stuck and/or a line is wrapped around the sail snapping a stand off (but the launch pop should not really be so hard). IMO almost any condition is an exercise in something, but yes in low wind I (obviously) would prefer a low wind kite.
  11. Fluke's journey

    Awfully portable kite I'd say. It took some time before I accepted it as a "real" kite. Controlling the kite by setting an almost pre-determined speed of your lower arms and hands as for the other kites no longer held water for me in this case. This kite really requires gentle input. For me as such - educational. Another thing gradually learnt was the 360 (still work in progress before I'm happy with them). When running around to get the kite go around, to get the timing (or phase perhaps?) right make sure that the kite is flying into tighter lines not out from tighter lines. Imagine a temporary wind window that is a result of your circle jogging, the kite should be somewhat closer to the leading side of the wind window, rather than the trailing side of the wind window. Next step, I'll try to replace the circle jogging with rotation as far as it is possible. I guess that the above would apply to other smaller low wind kites as well (had I seen them). If you would compare to the HQ shadow, it only requires slightly more wind, feels more like my other DLKs and is trickier. To get by the first few sessions of my first QLK, the B-series 1.5 Std., I pretended that the brake lines were the input of a DLK. The top leader setting was not then at the outmost position, but more towards the centre to give it some forward drive. It took some sessions to get used to the inverted hovers, yes, and even after that occasional flash back normal/inverted hover mode confusion could take place. Then move the top line to the outmost position so that you need to pull for forward speed, but this you already have built in as a DLKer. As a DLKer you already know how to give slack to the line just before any impact with the ground. When you also manage to transfer this to a QLK, don't fear going to the light frame. If you compare getting into QLKs to DLK trick learning I'd say that there are not too advanced DLKs tricks that are a bigger issue to learn (reliably) than that. I'd say that after having watched some informational videos a few times here, going into QLK from DLK is not such a big issue. I did say going into QLK, not becoming really good. Kind of reminds me of the slogan of Othello (Reversi) game: "A minute to learn - a life time to master". So where is all this leading? Well , you appear to be a quick learner. There is really nothing preventing you from going QLKing as well you know !
  12. Corolla Quad Clinic (Apr 8-9, 2017)

    Slack line DLK tricking - Many leaps forward required, almost without bounds . Good luck!
  13. Welcome Breezin

    Thank you - I always enjoy a good story. Usually I'm the one who recommends to have different kites to learn tricks on, on what ever kite that is most prone to to do the trick in your hands. It also gives some more angles to experience than just what one kite can give IMO. However, now might be a good time to stop acquiring and start to explore the characteristics of each kite before the next purchase. Give it time to see what is not covered in the set that you got and be really prepared for the decision of your next kite purchase. Perhaps you then discover a missing wind range in your current set, find a size you would like to experience, have learnt much about a certain model, saved up for a high quality one... Of course you are not going to get that "talking out of" here ! The following was true until very recently, the only kite that ever made me laugh loud is my Fazer XL. Used in a bit high and gusty high wind it is like a happy mad calf. It is reasonably trickable (though not sold as a trick kite), got a really large over steer (which is not the case of the Fazer XXL for some reason) and a gust might make you suddenly end three steps down wind. The kite is robust, so that higher wind when in the air you don't fear that it will break. Tip stabbing is another issue, then the robustness, the higher wind you are prone to choose for this kite and the mass of the kite becomes its enemy. When a LLE of the Fazer XL broke I reinforced the inside of the new tube by gluing a carbon fibre rod where the previous one had broken. Unfortunately I have no experience of the Fazer (called std.?) to share. Could only guess that it could be fun to try in high wind. Guessing anything when it comes to turns would be difficult, since the XL and XXL appear so different here. The second time I can recollect that a kite made me laugh was with my Infinity, when reaching a break through recently - more or less suddenly during a session, several flick flacks worked! And just before going home making a last attempt I managed four cycles and then exited from the fade and flow off. I couldn't believe that it was me and laughed out loud (there was fortunately no one to hear me or else they would have drawn the conclusion that there is a nutcase on the field). Why am I telling you this example here (in a sense hijacking the topic)? To show that this was only a minor part of the story, to show the long term pleasant work of learning to pilot the kite: When returning to kiting soon three years ago "the flying had changed", the fade seemed to be some sort of starting point or at least very common. I had never done a fade (on purpose) before. In hindsight, to get to the flic flack a long time three step process (and the flic flacks has never been the only goal) was required: To learn and to learn to hold the fade. Found it lightly annoying that others seem to be quicker at learning this - this was actually good. Even though you wouldn't have any kiters around, if you can find someone that present a video of flying that is rather close to your level you can then chose to "race" against it. To let go of that your flying always need to look good - Hey, you need room for learning! Constantly be around those positions/situations where you want to learn and reduce the frequency of the parts that are already familiar to you. To myself I called it "tricking en masse" - an observer would probably have said "just tumbling around". Reconnect to the flares I already knew how to do since a long time ago, but in the flic flack context. Yes, once again the feet stopped moving forward when lightly popping the flare to start the transition to the fade, just as they did a long time before when learning other tricks involving a flare. Sounds like learning is a lot of work? Yes and no, because it doesn't really feel like work. Also the process was not as focused as described above - one can work on several things in a more or less parallel way. In spirit of the above example, but in your way, making your story: I wish you both long term and short term kiting happiness and above all I wish you welcome here!!!, Exult
  14. Dual line bridles

    The Home > Kite Design > Bridling as well as other stuff in Ian Newham's Site ( http://www.iannewham.com/kitedesign/bridling.html ) was really a nice reading. Clear, pedagogic and well structured. I'll give you the a short description of the article (below), for the purpose of luring you into reading it and to discuss the contents. Also next time travelling, why not instead of killing time with your phone, bring a cord or two and practice the knots from the knot section and memorize the rules of thumb! The text raised, however excellent, two questions: How can these two sentences be true at the same time?: "low and wide is good for roll-ups and other pitch tricks" and "a light nose forward bridle makes flic-flacs (fade/flare) easier". Isn't a flic-flack a pitch based trick? You can't move the POI forwards and backwards at the same time (OK the word "wide" increased complexity somewhat). In the section "Bridle Effects on Pitch Tricks", moving the tow points (=POI?) towards the spreaders (=low/backwards?) requires the towpoints to be moved out. Why? - Not to have immense oversteer? Not mentioned is the effect of a deep vs a shallow bridle (but I'm quite happy with what I got from the article anyhow). Bridling Abstract (of Ian Newham's article) Pre Intro and Footer Nice perspective to make a time-less article (or rather aware if the time). The IMO excellent contents is under some share alike licence. Introduction Good (and humble) terminology walk through. Point of Influence and Feel Intruding the concept of "point of influence" (POI) and giving a intuitive turntable simile of the effect when moving that around. Also relate shifts along the three bridle legs to: beginner kites, "current" French style and late nineties British kites. Knots Use and images of: Larkshead, Locked larkshead, Prussik, Sheet bend, Overhand knot, Double overhand knot, Double overhand knot cinched up, Pigtail with overhand knot, Pigtail with double overhand knot, Inhaul attached to pigtail with sheet bend, outhauls larksheaded onto inhaul and A common way to assemble a 3 point bridle Rule of Thumb Turbo Bridle Layout, howto description and advice. Directly to the essentials in an easily accessible way. Author's first choice of bridle try. Rule of Thumb Static Bridle Layout, howto description and advice. Directly to the essentials in an easily accessible way. (Three point) French style bridle. Tuning High and low wind bridle tuning - nose back/forwards. Bridle Effects in Slack Line Moves I took the liberty of expressing heavy setting and light nose in terms of POI here: POI low and wide: backspins, roll-ups and pitch based tricks in general. POI high: "flick-flacks (flare-fade) POI inwards: "speed up spin tricks like axels and 540s" POI inwards and low: (tip) "stabs and black holes" Bridle Effects on Pitch Tricks Turntable simile again, but here around the LSs. To make a more pitch happy (and back spin) kite move POI towards the LS (i.e. low?). This will require the POI to be moved outward "in order to keep the kite flyable" - cost: turns, axels and flatspins "becomes more sluggish".
  15. Dual line bridles

    Well not one rule of thumb but a few instead, but not too difficult or long to follow. A nice bonus is the images of related knots: http://www.iannewham.com/kitedesign/bridling.html I think this page could be suitable for some project aiming at learning about bridle adjustments (and certainly for me it is one of the "ought to learn more of" things).