Wayne Dowler

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Wayne Dowler last won the day on December 15 2016

Wayne Dowler had the most liked content!

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About Wayne Dowler

  • Rank
    Hard Core Kite Flier
  • Birthday 08/04/1951

Profile Information

  • Favorite Kite(s)
    Revs, Prisms
  • Flying Since
    1989
  • Location
    clackamas, or. 97015
  • Interests
    kites of all types, bowling and coaching bowling, working out at the gym
  • Gender
    Male

Previous Fields

  • Country
    United States

Recent Profile Visitors

14,855 profile views
  1. +++ for Dave! Bought a std "B" from him myself, and several friends also purchased from him with NO issues! Pretty hard to go wrong there!
  2. Can't like ....RIP Rich!
  3. Yada, Yada, Yada!!!
  4. Not when I've been looking!!!
  5. Joe - do you still have good feeling in them? Holding handles loosely is a good thing. Increases your touch with them. You don't want to "strangle" them, but hold them like you would a baby bird! Old saying on indoors - if you aren't losing a handle once in a while, you're probably holding them too tight!!
  6. You are only dealing with 10' lines more or less, tangles should be a minor inconvenience at that length. Seeing the lines is secondary to seeing what the kite is doing. Don't throw the baby out in the bathwater! If you can, watch JB's tutorials - taught me almost everything I know about indoor flying! What your kite is doing is way more important than seeing the lines!! Believe me!!
  7. Pretty much, along with the bend in the LE, forms my concept of a "belly". The earliest versions of a Rev were often described as 2 sides fighting for control. This was caused by the center "V" being too steep, (not enough fabric between the halves). Cured in the "B" series, the center panel is larger overall, making the halves more cohesive. Effectively making the "belly" bigger! PS: just a flier here, no scientist, no formal education on flying, I just enjoy them and do my best to explain them!
  8. Thinking about (belly) more - The pattern of the Rev is flat, but in flight, very much a shaped sail. As wind increases, so too does the amount of distortion from that flatness, Bunjis help with giving and limiting that allowance, but they do allow some movement. So too, do the frame members. If reshaping wasn't an intended objective - why not lash it all down, use something so stiff as to not deform in the LE? Lighter, more flexible frames give you more distortion from that original flat pattern. Stronger, heavier limit it! PS: there is no wrong or right! Just what YOU get out of your experience playing on the wind! Info is always welcomed, but flying, in the end, is what it is all about!
  9. The style of flying I use, is trying to keep the wind as much as possible in the sail. Think of it as a ball (wind) and not dropping it as you fly around. PS: I fly a lot of team flying, lots of prescribed moves needing power instantly. Free flying alone is a whole nother universe! I do fly solo too. In that I'm OK with the kite being a little on the looser side of power, team means right now. I sailed - the difference is that you are not driving another object. only the kite. Different animals. In kites, you're only trying to move the sail, not something else. While they are both "engines", the purpose for each is very different, therefore the different designs. Belly? Watch someone else do the flying and get under the sail. Watch as it billows out in the middle to form a pocket (belly). We've learned to use that power to keep things flying in lots of conditions. Frames can increase or decrease that pocket, depending on stiffness. More flex = bigger belly - stiffer = less. Times have changed a lot over the years. Much of the info from over a decade ago has been superseded by styles today. Not to say it isn't valid, just dated.
  10. I'll attempt, might not get it all right: 1- Spars act like masts - the sail shape forms a pocket for the wind between them. Hopefully to keep it there as you fly. With the spars frontside, you would have no real resistance to losing the sail shape. To keep it "flat" and taut, you'd need to move the line attachment points out to the corners. Verticals too. 2- Quality is getting better on the less expensive kites. Wasn't always so. Andy has instituted strict QC standards on the Freilein kites, based on experience with other brands (both good and bad). Plus the more expensive allowed for choices in color combos - you could personalize them to be your creation. 3- Closest thing to adjust-ability I've seen is the many types within a model - ie - a std, mid, f/v, x/v, etc, all within a model - "B" Pro series comes to mind. Each has a specific wind range best suited for that particular type. And of course the interchangeability of the framing, to make your combo feel the way you want it to. 4- Your frame creates the "belly". Everyone had different tastes here, I like plenty of flex, some not as much. I fly race frames in conditions most put theirs away in, it all comes down to your comfort level. Hope this either answers some questions or at least gets the discussion rolling .....! PS: bought my first Rev in '97, 98 sometime!!
  11. Nope!! Saw him New Years Day - nothing unusual to report!
  12. Getting ready here - Happy New Year!!!!
  13. Some of my little twists: I use 2 stakes. 1 for each handle and spread them apart 2' or more. After unwinding, I can pull some tension and usually untwist to come clean back to the handles. I color code my handles. After a stroke, I've found that patterns help me keep things straight in my head. Along with that: I color code all 4 lines. Again for those patterns that keep me straight. Right top, right bottom, left top, left bottom - each has its own color that makes sense to me. I use a Sharpie to color them. This is an old one. but still works: I set my kite over my lines and lift the TE to expose the bridle. Kite is oriented in the way we fly, hook it up, step back to tension, invert to park. On the early VHS tape that came with a Rev, that was what was the prescribed way - stuck with me ever since. Except the inverting!! TY JB! Because I always take my handles off, I push my larksheaded line up to the top, instead of the bottom of the knot on each pair. When I get done winding, I larks the pairs and can pull the slack out on the longer line. Again - just my own little quirks on JB's method! PS: I wasn't sure the method would work, so I started with a shorter set, figured out things, then started using longer lines this way. Today I don't even think about it anymore - my routine is constant, controlled, but ALWAYS the same. NEVER let someone else wind your lines!!!! They're screwed up? Who's to blame? Do it yourself!!
  14. Get the order right - to the handles to wrap up, from the handles to setup (if you use a winder). If done the same, EVERY TIME, you start getting a rhythm to it. It is correct that each wind twists the line, each unwind takes that out. Some use a figure 8 wind, others a straight - doesn't make any difference. Unwind from the handles and spread your arms out as wide as possible. This takes any false twists out and helps separate your lines into pairs. Hook up, go back to the handles, pull or twist to determine which is left or right, sort out. ALMOST NEVER will you have anything resembling a "PERFECT WIND"! It comes down to making it as easy as possible to get to clean, open lines. Done correctly it should take no time to setup. The key is doing it the same EVERY TIME - make it a habit, get used to how you do it and how to straighten it out. Makes it much more fun on the flying field! PS: with a few minor personal tweaks - JB's method is near foolproof!!
  15. Or if you have trouble with the "top down" method - try this one: Set the kite on the ground LE down, Step back til you have tension in the lines. Point your thumbs at the kite (may need another small step back), and it should rise inverted. Stop moving and hold for as long as possible, then step forward to land. Only need to gain a little attitude to get off the ground and a quick step forward keeps thing safe (read - no breakage)!! Just another way to get there!