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SegelFlieger last won the day on January 20

SegelFlieger had the most liked content!

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About SegelFlieger

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  • Favorite Kite(s)
    My own builds, rev inspired.
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    Spokane WA
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    Kite Flying of course! And Kite Building. Photography. Music; both listening and composing (and performing a long while ago now).
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  1. That is very impressive to fly a dual line kite with one hand! Imagine flying one in the other hand at the same time, I bet you could do it. Regards, SF
  2. How about the "bird-cry" sound your kite makes occasionally in just the right wind conditions?
  3. 2 lbs of tension won't be enough to set your lines, you probably already know that. 2 lbs is enough to equalize your lines though once they have been set or used for a while. I should have also mentioned that step 6 (Double Check Line Length) could be performed first in order to check your lines to see if they need to be adjusted. SF
  4. "Pulling" back to the subject of line equalization... I have a very precise way to make my own line-sets. There are parts of my procedure that can also apply to "line equalization". I will summarize them here. Materials needed: ~4 feet of 1/8" shock cord 1" square of scrap Dacron or other padding material. forceps, or suitable clamp 5 tent stakes. I make and equalize my lines under tension. It is important to provide equal tension to each line. You will find that you become frustrated if you lay out four 120' lines (rough cut), grab all of them in your hand and pull some tension, cut them all to the same length; trying the procedure a second time you will find some of your lines are longer or shorter by 1/4 inch or more. I designed a Tensioning Tool and method that prevents this problem from happening and it is really quite a simple design (even if the explanation seems long). This is not a "field fix" and it does take some time... but if you find a day with No Wind and want to do something kite-related, this is something both rewarding and practical that you can do to get that "kite fix" on those days. Step 1. Make a Tensioning Tool. Create a set of Tensioning Shock Cords. I use 1/8” shock cord. Cut four 10" lengths and seal the ends by melting them with a lighter. Tie a knot at both ends. Sew a "mark" stitch close to one end (I use red thread). Tie another mark stitch exactly 3 inches away from the first. (note, I used a more accurate method of suspending each piece of shock cord with a 2 lb weight and then defining my "mark" threads, however the shock cord is probably uniform in "stretch per length" for these short lengths. For this purpose you can probably get away with just tying the "mark" knots with the cord relaxed). Make 4 staggered tethering lines out of a material that wont stretch, I used bridle line. Tie a loop in both ends of these with enough length to tie larks head knots. Tie each of these to the Tensioning Shock Cords with a larks head knot. You will also need a clamp, I use forceps, and also a small piece of Dacron or other material to protect the lines when you clamp them (explained later). This picture should help clarify what I just described: Picture of Tools Step 2. Setup one end of your lines (Fixed End) Lay out your lines and place one of the tent stakes in the ground, deep, so it wont pull out. Loop all four ends of your line set onto this one stake. This is the end that you will NOT be adjusting. The "Fixed End". Step 3. Setup the Adjustment End of your lines At the other end of your lines, tie a larks head knot from your lines onto each Tensioning Tool. One line at a time, pull the tether with a tent stake inserted at the end until the marks on the Tensioning Tool are exactly 4" apart (stretched now and under tension). Insert the tent stake in the ground (deep) so that it does not move and verify that the marks are still 4" apart. Do this for each line. You will also see why the tether lengths need to be different to allow each stake to be put in the ground while keeping the lines close together. Step 4. Equalize the lines With each line under equal tension as described in Step 3, clamp all four lines close to the Adjustment End with the Tensioning Tool. Make sure to use padded protection between the lines and your clamp so that you do not damage your lines. This is where you use the piece of 1" square Dacron. Once the lines are clamped you may now remove the four tent stakes at the adjustment end. Untie the sleeving from each line and push it towards the clamp that holds your four lines. Pull the "Adjustment Ends" of all four of the lines together with very little tension and either cut the ends to a new uniform length or mark them with a sharpie where the new equalization point should be. (note, cutting the lines also requires having to melt the ends to keep them from fraying. Just mark the lines if you do not feel comfortable melting your line ends). Step 5. Finish your lines. Remove the clamp. Move your sleeves back to the equalized mark (if you marked your lines), or so that a equal amount of line is exposed beyond your sleeves (1/8th inch or so if you cut your lines). Re-tie your end loop at the Adjustment End. Insure that the End Loop Lengths are exactly the same length between all four lines (knot to end of loop) and that the amount of line exposed beyond the sleeve is also exactly the same for each line. Step 6. Double Check (optional) With all four lines still secured at the Fixed End and the clamp removed, reattach all four lines to the Tensioning Tool cords and pull each line under tension until the red thread marks are 4 inches apart. All the lines should now be the same length. Hopefully my experience is helpful but it does require some work. SF
  5. I should have included this information in my post... Two chain washers weigh 1.7g (.06 oz). My new kite weighs 230g (8.1 oz) -> rev Mid-vent equiv with two-wrap rev rods; shock cords are not trimmed yet. The addition of two chain washers will only increase the weight of the the kite defined above by .7% I like the field-fix idea . Considering a tear as I experienced, a bottle cap washer with two holes could allow one to continue to fly; it would support the vertical displacement of the shock cord loop against the remaining Dacron and there would still be plenty of meat left on the horizontal portion of the LE end for the required shock cord tension to the rod end. Add a pocket knife or multi-tool to the things you should bring along with you for emergencies. I plan to. Make sure the tool has the equivalent of an awl or pointed knife tip to make the holes. Thanks Mark. SF
  6. My kite was recently damaged by wind conditions that were too strong for my sail choice that day; I had become overly anxious to fly a kite that I had built this winter and had been eagerly waiting for an opportunity to fly. As a result of this mistake, the shock cord that attaches the leading edge rod to the sail, tore the Dacron tab between the two holes in which the cord passes through and is tied in a knot on the backside of the LE. I admit that this happened because of a slight design flaw in making a leading edge out of one piece of Dacron and using holes to replace the screen mesh. In my design I chose not to extend the end tab to the sail, which is how the example LE appeared to be made. In repairing the damage I also came up with an idea to improve the shock cord attachment to the LE. I have always been bothered by how the two holes and knot "bunches up" the LE at the end distorting the top edge of the kite as a result. I wanted to find a reinforcing washer that had two holes in it spaced the same distance as the holes in my LE. The washer had to be light weight, rigid, have the holes spaced properly, and have a hole diameter to match that of the shock cord. "Is that too much to expect?" you might ask. Well I thought so too and was considering making the washers myself... however as I imagined "re-purposing" things that Aren't washers to Be washers I came up with this solution: This is part of a chain link for a standard #35 drive chain. Once I recognized that the shape of the outer links might be a solution I found a chain size chart that gave the specifications for a variety of #'d chains. The #35 had hole spacing (i.e. Pitch) of 3/8" with hole diameter (i.e. Pin diameter) just slightly larger than 1/8". This was a perfect match for what I had imagined! So after repairing the tear with two pieces of Dacron (one on each side), using the new washer, and a banana (carry over from my "You Know You're a Kite Nut When..." post), I made the modification to both sides of the LE: Items used for the repair. The repair completed. The LE is no longer distorted at the ends and the tear that occurred between the two holes will not happen again. I plan on adding the washers to my other kite sails. Hopefully this idea might help some of you as well. SF
  7. You might be a Kite Nut when you check “Windfinder” every day to find a 1 hr window that is flyable in your area. Spokane WA has very sporadic wind for kite flying. Last Saturday it rained all day, as predicted in the news. According to Windfinder it was supposed to be very windy and rainy, but at 3:00 PM the rain was supposed to stop and the wind was supposed continue to be strong; too strong it turns out. I was out running errands that day, with my kite bag in the car and at 2:45 headed to the field. 3:00, sun came out, wind was there, and I had about an hour of flight time before my kite broke. And the rain started again. Some would think but instead I felt I was able to practice some things that I have been waiting to improve on all winter, waiting on some proper wind to do so… Worth breaking a kite for. My kite breaking revealed a weakness in the design that allowed me to create an improvement to keep it from happening again. Also worth breaking a kite for. I am now fixing my kite using “Go-Cart” drive chain parts, Dacron, and a banana to do so. After all, I am a Kite Nut (ok, not a banana, but the rest is true). I hope to share this experience with you all in another post when my repair is complete. SF
  8. If you decide to call Skydog, ask for Jim Christianson. He was the "artist" for "Go Fly a Kite", designing the catalogs and kite colors for each season. He is now the founder and owner of Skydog: See the "Design" topic below in the following link: Interesting archived NYT article here regarding Jim's color choices for sail design and the history of the Go Fly a Kite company: Jim could probably even tell you the story behind the color choices in your kite. SF
  9. Hello and welcome Nekoshi. I am am not a dual line kite expert but I do have some old catalogs and magazines dating back to the late 80's. On the back of a "KiteLines" issue Vol 6 No. 2 (summer 1986) there is an add for "Go Fly a Kite". The phone number is 1-800-243-3370 and they are in CT. This number is now associated with Skydog Kites and is current. It may be the same business as they are also in CT and report that they have "25 years of experience" they may be able to identify your kite. I'd give them a call and see if they can help you with your question. here are some links: Hopefully this helps, Regards, Segel
  10. I did not know Rich, but I have experienced the community in which he was/'is' a part of. As a result I feel a loss. I would like to share this quote from the book “Jonathan Livingston Seagull” in remembrance of Rich: Jonathan's thoughts to himself after "transcending" in the story... May you enjoy your new wings Rich ... SF
  11. I would greatly miss the chat feature of KiteLife if it went away. This is one of the only two “live” social interactions I am able to have with other kite enthusiasts. The second being a fellow kite enthusiast here in Spokane who was referred to me on a “chat night” session by dragonfish. He is now a great friend and flying companion. For that I am VERY grateful and I try to participate every "Wednesday Chat Night" with the intention that my social interaction might be of use to others as well. Every week I look forward to “chat night” and I am disappointed when I can’t participate. I am looking forward to a change, or no change. SegelFlieger
  12. Thank you for your comments Edmond. The intent of the blog was to provide dynamic response data for each rod independent of a sail as stated in the summary. This blog was intended to stimulate further discussion on frame/sail selection here: As you mentioned, there are obviously other factors involved when you are flying a frame with a sail, but how do you decide how to tweak it? perhaps the data that I have presented might provide some insight. You have already introduced two very important points, friction in the sail and tension on the frame. I look forward to reading further comments from you in the forum. Regards, S.F.
  13. This is great to bring experience to the table, especially when similar technologies are concerned. My similar experience is regarding the winding of long audio cables or wire which it is very important to remove the "twist" from the line when doing so or you will have a tangled mess and risk ruining the cables over time; no need to describe the technique to avoid a twist (I call it the roadie twist). A well-used orange extension cable (not properly re-wound) comes to mind with the cork-screw funny shape at the trailing end. I can't control how other "people" unwind and rewind it when they use the leaf blower . However, with long kite lines a twist is deliberately introduced into all your lines as you wind your lines onto a card. Hold the card in one hand and just twist all the lines around it as you walk towards your kite never moving the hand with the card. It doesn't even matter if it is neat or not; but neat is nice . Do not worry about lines overlapping each other. When you unwind the lines you do it the same way, card in one hand and let the lines pay-off. This untwists the lines. Using this technique you may have some weird things happen when you have unwound your lines. Pull tension to undo phantom twists caused by line compression in storage. If you are flying with quad lines then determine if you have twists between line pairs; rotate your handles one way or the other to see if the twists get worse or better. Once both line pairs have been separated then you may have twists in each line pair. Using the same technique, rotate your handles until the problem is corrected. All of this doesn't really take too much time. The other problem that can occur is that one line pair has found itself inside the other line pair. This is the weird problem. In this case you just stake your handles with the kite under tension and work the tangle back to the handles. Most times you can figure out what needs to be done but if you can't, undo the lines from one handle and work the tangle out, then reconnect the lines to your handle. If you use this technique you should be able to set up or tear down your kite in 5 minutes or less. Regards, S.F.
  14. I just posted my blog Carbon Tubing Dynamic Response Test Be aware that this is my first blog. Let me know if you have trouble with any links or pictures. I look forward to discussions that follow. Regards, S.F.