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No Snag Handles


harveyt
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My first post here.

I'm really new to the Revolution. I bought my first one (SLE) a couple of weeks ago. And I REALLY am having fun. It is challenging and I am enjoying the journey. I want to buy a B PRO Xtra Vent, because it is really windy here right now.

I don't understand what the deal is with the No Snag Handles. Are they worth purchasing? I am using the 13" handles that came with the kite.

I need all the help I can get.

Thanks in advance.

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You can modify the stock handles with simple blue sheetrock anchors and the associated screw. Cheap and easy...

The weight and feel of the no snags is nice but not necessary being a beginner.post-7551-0-34985500-1398961078_thumb.jppost-7551-0-88781400-1398961094_thumb.jppost-7551-0-49611100-1398961112_thumb.jp

Simply remove the rubber cap. Remove the triangular hog ring. Some remove metal burrs...I find it helps hold the anchor in the handle, along with a drop of glue or epoxy.Pop in the screw anchor and screw..Tie up some leaders and attach.. instant no snag.

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Pretty simple mod that is, I used it for many years, eliminates ( or lessens) the chance of snagging a line, by getting rid of those rings!

As was said, the "no-snags" might be lighter, but modding what you already have is really cheap!!

I think there's a video of it on the Rev forum or YouTube by Watty using the "Stone in Shoe Bob" method!! :ani_idea:

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Yep. Takes 10 minutes. The hardest part is making sure your plastic end caps are ok taking them off for punching a new hole and buying a length of bulk line bridle to cut up for the leaders.

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Here's a write-up, that I posted several years back, concerning this very topic & simple modification....... Same information, as others have already stated, just a bit more detail, and history, on how all this got started, should you be interested......

Good Luck.......and welcome to the forum "harveyt" :ani_victory:

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Making Snag-Proof Handles

OK, you've got the Pros in here now - listen up - these guys know what they are talking about.

As for me, I'm just a tinkerer, with a bit of mechanical knowledge, and the tools to back it up. I really enjoy improving, improvising, and revising, already great ideas, and there are tons of them out there. If only I could fly a Rev, so well.

As for the "Watty Way", my mistake (sorry Watty, but you did make the video), and I suppose that is what I remembered. I do remember that the original idea came from, "Stone in the Shoe Bob", so credit given, where credit is due (sorry Bob). No harm intended, only thanks - Bob, thanks for the idea - Watty, thanks for the video. As they say, a picture is worth, well, a lot. Ok, so now it's the "Stone in the Shoe Bob" method. Either way, thanks guys.

Now, as JB has pointed out, the length issue is probably a personal preference. I'm sure that for the seasoned Pro, the slightest change in length, and/or diameter, is extremely annoying, however, for the novice / newbie, it may not be, quite so critical. I would suppose that whatever feels comfortable to you, would surely suffice. I hope JB will agree with this.

So, as for the dilemma, "Do I cut the handles down to the original length, or do I let the length, fall where it may?", my advice on that would be to fix a set of handles, using the "Stone in the Shoe Bob" method (as illustrated in the "Watty Video"), then take them out for a flight, or three. If the length feels too long, awkward, or unwieldly, then it's simple enough, to go back to the work bench, take them apart, and cut them off at the inner edge, of the original holes, where the rings used to be attached (side of the hole, closest to the grips). After the cut, smooth off the rough edges, ream out the ends, and reassemble everything. This should put you back to within 1/16" to 1/8", of the original length - Voila! No snag handles, original length !!

After all, it's a lot easier to shorten a set of handles, than it is, to lengthen them (now surely that makes sense, doesn't it?)

Just for ease, of you that may be reading this, here is my original post to "Stone in the Shoe Bob", concerning his revision, which originally appeared, over in the Revolution Kites Forum
:

Hi Bob,


I was reading about your handle modifications, using the drywall anchors and the screws, which would enable one to rid themselves of those annoying metal rings, on the ends of the handles. A while back, Watty Watson sent me a video that he obviously put together, to help me understand his explanation of this procedure. I thought it worked like a charm. Now, I see, where you have now, gone back and reversed that modification, on the upper ends of your handles, and reattached the metal clips. I believe you said this was due to the additional handle length, which is created, by this particular modification.

Now, I've got a stupid question. If this additional length is a problem, why not just cut off the top end of the handle tubing, maybe .25" to .50", or whatever seems to be right, and put you modification back as it was. I mean, that is such a clean and trouble free modification, and those clips (hog rings) are really a pain. My thoughts would be to cut the tubing, immediately below the holes, where the metal clips were mounted, and then reinsert your anchor and screws, as you had previously done. This should put you back, very close to the original handle length (+/- 1/8"). Surely you've got several sets of handles, just lying around, that you could experiment with. I hope I haven't misunderstood your point, but I think I'm hearing what you were saying correctly. Just my thoughts on the issue.

Also, as for me, I suppose that I'm not quite as tuned in on the Rev, as you may be, and obviously, I haven't been flying long enough, for that small amount of additional length, to be a bother. Maybe one day, I'll get to that point, but for now, I'm just very happy, with your idea. Thanks for sharing it !

Now for my additional two cents - For those of you, who don't want to go to this extreme, of cutting the tubing, and would just like to use the anchor and screw idea, I have modified several sets, with very little trouble, however, if you have access, a few tools, other than a screw driver, it will make this job much easier and neater. WARNING - Do be careful, when removing the rubber covers, from the ends of the handles, because most of the handles that I have seen, have a very sharp and nasty burr, around the holes, where the metal clips were attached. You can see where the holes were drilled in the tube, so beware. Once I carefully removed the metal clips, and the rubber end caps, I took the handles over to the grinding wheel, where I smoothed down the burrs around the clip holes, and then polished the ends of the tube with a rotating brass bristled, wire brush. You could probably accomplish the same effect, with a little elbow work, a flat file, and some emery cloth. Just be careful. In fact, the file is probably all that is really necessary, if you will be very careful, and try not to scar the exposed part of your handles, while filing the burr. A padded vice, would be quite helpful, for holding the handle steady, while you file it smooth. You just need to remove that sharp metal burr around the small holes. I also found it necessary to ream out the ends, of most of the tubing, as there was some kind of hard residue, just inside the end. I don't know what that was, but it definitely needed to be removed. Either way, it just makes for an easier job, once the grinding, polishing, and reaming is done. Then it was just a matter of forcing the plastic anchors (with shoulders), down into the ends of the tubing, and inserting a #10 stainless steel screw, leaving just a small gap under the head of the screws, for the pigtails to be looped around. This can be seen clearly, in Watty's video, which can be found here http://www.vimeo.com/7746634 Also, I'll try to post a couple of pics, of one of my latest modified handles.(see below)

post-4670-0-96113000-1398965547_thumb.jp post-4670-0-33706000-1398965559_thumb.jp post-4670-0-25809600-1398965572_thumb.jp post-4670-0-90802300-1398965580_thumb.jp post-4670-0-12494000-1398965593_thumb.jp

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The top of the handles don,t snag, it is always the bottom so just do that end :ani_victory:

As for trimming the length, No point in doing that, they are your handles that you fly with so I doubt if any change in length would be noticeable ! I have never trimmed any of mine.

If somebody else uses your set up they will notice a change in feel because every kite has slight differences and if they can,t live with that it,s not your problem ! :cat_lol:

By the way, I fly with " Stone in shoe Bob " :ani_whistling:

Bill

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may I recommend

~ "hi-test bridle line\100# strength" as your leader material Dacron is too thick and can catch on the others easily, high test can be tied and untied without complications or excess effort.

~Run two strands by folding in half, larks-head that middle to the handle, only make your adjusting knots in one of those strands.

In competition you might want to dump the sleeving entirely or use that same bridle line (with the spectra core removed) as your sleeving material.

Setting-up is easier with the flying line ends being affixed to the kite NOT having sleeving at all. Length adjustments are made by shorting the attachment loops, (so make overly large ones compared to sleeved lines)

All this stuff is necessary if you want to reliably throw and catch kite, at least in my experience.

Snag-less handles, long leaders (the further out your can grab and pull the better,... but not all the way to the raw spectra).

The method I first used for snag-less handles was a nail through the hole, cut to length to fit the diameter of the handles. You larks-head knotted-off on the nail and lined the edging of the steel tube with a cut-down moly, single wrap the handle (over that nail) with electrical tape, then slipped the cover back in place. (crediting Jeffery Burka and RECdotKITES)

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Harvey, Though there is some good info on how-to, make no-snag handles, being that you got your SLE a couple of weeks ago, you're probably not snagging your lines enough to pull apart perfectly good handles, once you really get into flying you'll probably start snagging the lines around your hands, elbows, buttons on your jacket, the wire to your headset and other things on or around you. So, to your original question, are they worth purchasing? or making? My answer is, snagging ain't a big deal. Just enjoy flying it.

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Harvey, Though there is some good info on how-to, make no-snag handles, being that you got your SLE a couple of weeks ago, you're probably not snagging your lines enough to pull apart perfectly good handles, once you really get into flying you'll probably start snagging the lines around your hands, elbows, buttons on your jacket, the wire to your headset and other things on or around you. So, to your original question, are they worth purchasing? or making? My answer is, snagging ain't a big deal. Just enjoy flying it.

Snagging for me was a problem almost from day one. Full forward drive, and the line would snag frequently on the metal clips on the bottom. That is when I searched the problem on two different forums and found the mod on how to easily fix the problem with modifying the handles which is beyond simple. Revolution also came out with the modified handles, to avoid the problem, but they are expensive. Snagging the lines on my headset, clothing, elbows etc, while flying is something I have yet to experience. :cat_shifty:

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You guys are the BEST. Thank you all! I am going to keep flying until I start noticing any snags. Then I will switch to the no snag handles. I'll either make my own or buy some. Rain today and tomorrow. Yuck for flying but good for watching the tutorial videos.

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I modded my standard handles on Thursday night using the info here. Great warning about those burrs- they could have really sliced my hands up if I hadn't been looking for them. One tip I will add - if the vinyl caps are really tight, I just soaked them in hot water for a minute or so, and then they slipped off easily. I used the Dremel to deal with the burrs permanently and I have a great set of handles that look and feel a lot better. Since I had all the parts laying around, it cost me nothing but 30 minutes of time - no brainer in my books.

Off course we have had rain and snow for the last 3 days, so I can't say that I have flight tested them! 8-(

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I modded my standard handles on Thursday night using the info here. Great warning about those burrs- they could have really sliced my hands up if I hadn't been looking for them. One tip I will add - if the vinyl caps are really tight, I just soaked them in hot water for a minute or so, and then they slipped off easily. I used the Dremel to deal with the burrs permanently and I have a great set of handles that look and feel a lot better. Since I had all the parts laying around, it cost me nothing but 30 minutes of time - no brainer in my books.

Off course we have had rain and snow for the last 3 days, so I can't say that I have flight tested them! 8-(

Glad it worked for you. Yes a Dremel makes it a piece of cake, to accomplish. Those burrs will send you to the ER, if you don't know about them.

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I use either 90# or 150# bridle line, but it only comes in white (LPG) ! Might be able to find other stuff, Nick (Reef Runner) might have a lead!!

Yep, I likewise use the 90# or 150# bridle line, for leaders. I think I also have some 170#. A few years back, I bought all of my line making supplies from Midwest Kites, but I don't know how much they have now. I believe their colors and sizes are pretty limited. You may want to call Lynn or Rich. Look up Midwest Kites and I'm sure there's a phone number. Also, the biggest selection, that I know of right now, so far as color & strength, is at Goodwinds.com. Go to their website and search "bridle line". There is a whole page of different sizes & colors. Also, Fun with Wind.com has some black & yellow, in 80# & 130#.

Really, you might try any on-line kite store. It used to be readily available, but it does seem to be rather limited, now-a-days..........I don't know why. I'm just glad I purchased mine in full rolls, when I did, which was 10 -12 years ago. Now I've got lots of colors and sizes in my supply box, which has obviously become quite a rarity ! Wish I could be of more help............but you'll just have to look around and call. Someone may be able to order you some special colors, but good luck finding it "by the foot"........you'll probably have to by a roll......or, you can go to The Kite Shoppe.com, and they will sell the LPG in 10' pieces, but that's the line that Wayne mentioned which is all white.

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I use an 80# hollow core dacron fishing line. The 80 comes in lime and black..but other colors available in other weight line. I don't like the heavy,bulky stuff that comes on rev lines and what most people use. This is small and thin...purchaced by the yard..

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  • 2 years later...

First time out with a Rev', a few weeks back, and I met OapBillF, and he swapped my leader lines over for knotted versions, and advised me to how modify my handles to snagless using this method (a screw in a rawlplug to replace the hog ring). Made the mod that night and it really helped. Thank you!

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3 hours ago, Ferret said:

First time out with a Rev', a few weeks back, and I met OapBillF, and he swapped my leader lines over for knotted versions, and advised me to how modify my handles to snagless using this method (a screw in a rawlplug to replace the hog ring). Made the mod that night and it really helped. Thank you!

Yep, makes that annoying snag stop interfering with your fun. Eventually, if you stay with flying quads, you will buy or make no snags. I have, but I still use the two sets I modified when I started flying. My handles (six sets and multiplying) spend most of their time semi-permanently attached to the lines I use most often. Reduces setup time. Many other kite mods are possible. The guys at Dunstable Downs will fill you in on the ones they find useful.

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