hyzakite Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 Got it, the brightness the lime turned the gold a little more earthy than the actual color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.V. Nguyen Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 Aye, no bunji issues here (other than catching the bridle on a knot from time to time).@P.V. Nguyen, remind me this weekend and we can explore some techniques for shaking off tip wraps and such. Good idea. Issues with new batches made me putting up all of our kites to check measurements. Bridles on the new were off a bit. Fixed. Might have you take a look at all of them :-)Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RevRookie Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 Quote Another (simpler) version would be to replace the bungee with longer shock cord and just overhand knot each end around the opposite one to form a loop that the spar could go through On the ABS that is the technique that Lam uses. There are 3 holes on the reinforcement patch & the bungee goes in & out and around to form a loop that the vertical end goes through before you stretch the end cap on. The spar is locked in place in the centre of the point on the sail. I didn't get it until he showed me in person - then the light bulb went on! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kwmf Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 13 hours ago, P.V. Nguyen said: Vinyl caps were also put over the vertical end caps (as pictured) to reduce impact on unscheduled landing. If you're on beach sand, the soft sand itself would act as a cushion for you. On a hard surface I think the cap it too thin to provide any real measurable shock absorbing action (the bungee itself is a shock absorber) of value. That setup would keep sand out, but I just use some O-rings for that purpose because it's just simpler and easier for me and I worry about the increase in friction between the vinyl and sail. Multiple solutions to the sand problem - pick whatever works for you. The caps do help with abrasion issues though if you fly in such a manner to warrant it. The plastic end-caps take some grinding though and are easily replaceable - burning through a bridle would be a bigger concern. The do help avoid slippage as mentioned. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 The caps are good if you do a fair amount of urban flying, and PV's kids are taking two of my urban classes in a row. Pretty sure Brett Marchel ( @Flight Risk ) has vinyl on all his bottom end caps? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyzakite Posted July 15, 2016 Report Share Posted July 15, 2016 4 hours ago, John Barresi said: The caps are good if you do a fair amount of urban flying, and PV's kids are taking two of my urban classes in a row. Pretty sure Brett Marchel ( @Flight Risk ) has vinyl on all his bottom end caps? I would think doing a fair amount of urban flying the, what are actually thread protector caps are a must. Also, these caps made from flexible vinyl, chemical resistant rubber, High temperature flexible vinyl, high temperature rubber or even fda listed vinyl all have different durometer scores, the lower the number the better the grip on hard surfaces like glass, the rubber ones would have the best grip. Once you plant the kite down on its tips the kite will almost lock into place, not slide all over as it would with just the plastic end caps. I can picture planting a rev solidly on a window of a building on its tips with the chemical resistant rubber caps which is the softest ones. About the same as landing a rev in the sand on it's tips. But there goes that off topic stuff again. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.V. Nguyen Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 On some of my kites I have modified the bungee so there is only one knot going to the sail on the side away from the center of the kite, a little to the left of what is the half-way point between the original two holes. If it is centered it likes to keep jumping jumping back and forth, which creates a really annoying "click" feeling in the handles every time you power up and ease off. I can't visualize it. Do you have a close-up picture?Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted July 16, 2016 Report Share Posted July 16, 2016 22 hours ago, P.V. Nguyen said: I can't visualize it. Do you have a close-up picture? Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app The endcaps are custom-machined and the white bridle is 90# Spectra. The endcaps fit inside the spars quite snugly and do an excellent job of keeping sand out. This endcap and bungee setup for all six points weighs a total of 7.5-ish grams, versus 35+ grams of the standard factory issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P.V. Nguyen Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Noted. Thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted July 17, 2016 Report Share Posted July 17, 2016 Mark, any problems with rods splitting from the internal style caps vs external? I do enough concrete etc that it worries me.I'm also curious about any difference in the way the sail "pulls" from the single point vs two (normal) - doesn't the single concentrate tension into a smaller area?Not + or - here, just talking shop. Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 5 hours ago, John Barresi said: Mark, any problems with rods splitting from the internal style caps vs external? I do enough concrete etc that it worries me. I'm also curious about any difference in the way the sail "pulls" from the single point vs two (normal) - doesn't the single concentrate tension into a smaller area? Not + or - here, just talking shop. Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app Splitting from the inside has crossed my mind. The leading edge is ferruled on the inside, and the part inside the tube is longer = greater leverage. I understand how pounding concrete and asphalt might increase how quickly the tubes may splinter. Best way to find out would be a field test. The rods can also be reinforced to keep them from splitting, and I believe that they already are somewhat beefier at the ends. I would worry more about the endcaps themselves, since they are designed for weight reduction, although Delrin, the material they are made from, is pretty tough stuff. They are very pricy at about $90.00 per set for the four sets I had made. Most of that cost was the set-up and changes to the CNC programming to get them right, so the price should drop for subsequent runs, although I don't foresee them coming in at any less than $40.00 per set. Isn't Rev using something similar on the Reflex? There is not as much bungee to absorb shock from hitting the ground, so not recommended for beginners, because the tension is concentrated in a single direction. From other home-made kites I have I can testify that the hole will "weller" out much faster than the stock set up. Again this can be prevented by a bit of reinforcement at each of the six attachment holes on the sail. I can send you a set to beat on if you want to test them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 Aye, similar on the Reflux. I appreciate the offer to send some for testing, thanks a lot but I fear they'd be wasted on me - I'll admire them on your kites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyzakite Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 15 hours ago, John Barresi said: Aye, similar on the Reflux. I appreciate the offer to send some for testing, thanks a lot but I fear they'd be wasted on me - I'll admire them on your kites. Now now, I know you're too good with the ability to spell and rarely make a typographical error! And I know you're not talking about applying more cleaning, flowing or purifying agent to metal during soldering. Is there a bitter taste going on? A sour note? No, Really, It was an honest mistake! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RaginCajun Posted July 18, 2016 Report Share Posted July 18, 2016 I like my Reflex! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 No bitter taste, just not my style - Blast, et al are in the same category for me - just too slippery in the air (for what I enjoy). Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Reflux, John, Reflux. Right over the top on that one, as in acid reflux. Medicine, soldering -- get it it? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 I just took a factory B full vent and added the LE tabs (final layout), wear strips and a second straight stitch along the trailing edge... I'm happy with the end result (my sewing could still improve) and am looking forward to putting it through its paces in some serious wind - not quite a PRO, but it should last a hell of a lot longer than the stock setup - I'll let y'all know. After TK and I have done several more kites like this, I think we'll actually start offering these basic upgrades as a service here on the website for anyone who doesn't want to bother with doing it themselves. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul LaMasters Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 covers over the knots on the bottoms + replacement leading edge services please every kite made in this bow-tie shape should have the double straight stitch along the trailing edge,... heck even the knock-offs come that way now! (Vertigo) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 5 hours ago, Paul LaMasters said: covers over the knots on the bottoms I'm exploring styles of knot covers, its on the list! 5 hours ago, Paul LaMasters said: replacement leading edge services please Will think on it, definitely a valuable service but I'm not sure we're inclined to open up dirty kites and rebuild in our shop - our offerings will probably be limited to addon type stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyzakite Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Knot covers? One bungee 2 knots? Says who? How about one bungee with no knots? Covers are for whatnots. I mean covers for what knots? There isn't anything in the rule books about "must use 2 knots" How about like the ponytail bungees no knots!. Just use shrink tubing, a hog ring and hog ring pliers. How often are those bungees adjusted anyways? But when it does need adjusting, just remove the hog clip and pull more of the same bungee to retighten the sail, clip off the excess bungee after re-hog clipping and heat shrink just where the hog clip meets itself. You can also put the vertical behind the bungee once the bungee starts stretching out and get extra miles on it before retightening the sail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul LaMasters Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Burka has the end cap drilled thru the top on a single elastic line that goes thru the triangular slot and ends knotted with an overhand that also tucks into the tube being inserted into the end cap. The other end is a single knot thru a Kevlar reinforced patch on the sail or leading edge, this is his rig for flailing with a customized rev2, no bridle, long throws, up wind activities, maybe30-35 feet, It wiggles as a frame and responds rapidly to foot or flail action Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 8 hours ago, Paul LaMasters said: Burka has the end cap drilled thru the top on a single elastic line that goes thru the triangular slot and ends knotted with an overhand that also tucks into the tube being inserted into the end cap. Yeah, I've done a couple like that. Drill from the inside to the triangular hole. Knot inside the cap, pulled as tight as it can get so that it fits inside the tube. Losing all that bungee = 3/4 ounce less weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted August 1, 2016 Report Share Posted August 1, 2016 FYI... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Grosse Posted March 12, 2017 Report Share Posted March 12, 2017 I'm using Nylon Grosgrain - 1" wide for the center and two fold points, 1/2" for all the other tabs in-between (19 tabs total)... Straight stitch, close to the edge all the way around the perimeter of the tab. My spacing could probably be more even, it's been an experiment in progress - main thing is to evenly support the mesh, enough that when it does eventually give out there isn't enough slack in the sail for it to lose it's original form in flight. Bear in mind, the tabs do add some weight but nothing a little technique won't overcome. What kind of thread did you use to sew the tabs on with? Sent from my HTC6545LVW using KiteLife mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted March 16, 2017 Report Share Posted March 16, 2017 Sorry for the delay, just back from L.A. I think we're using Guterrman thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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