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Rev Noob Handle Question


Bill Clay
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So I bought a reflex a few weeks ago and the handles that came with it are essentially 13" tubes with the leaders being all one piece strung through the tube (pic attached). There are only 2 knots on the top leader and only one on the bottom... Should I just buy new handles and leaders or can I just larks head additional leaders to get more adjustability? Are these handles even worth messing with?

Any insight or advice would be greatly appreciated. :)

image.jpeg

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I don't think you need to toss them, but making add-ons will help the adjust ability. You only need top add-ons, the bottoms are fine. Saw some this last weekend and could see that they needed more  on the tops. But that is the way Rev sets them up, we modify afterwards. Just make sure you make both sides as close to the same as possible!!

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1 - I actually tighten the knot at either end of the handle down so they're really flush with the end, then I cut off the excess.

2 - I then tie lighter and more flexible leaders and larks head them onto the remaining knots (long on top, short on bottom).

3 - Last step, I put vinyl end caps over the handle tips to cover the knots (with leaders pulled through a small hole in the end caps.

All this gives me more tuning range, less snags (softer material and covered knots) and an overall cleaner look. :)

150#-200# Dacron is a bit overkill for indoor leaders, even the outdoor handles use 80#-100#.

Edited by John Barresi
DUH: I just realized this topic was about REFLEX handles, sorry for my confusion. :)
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I'd disassemble the new handles, place the knotted string so it pulls from both directions against knots and washers.  You are running two strings thru the middle, knotting both ends, all in an effort to remove any wiggling room (slop)  Only 1 line exits from the top and the other from the bottom of the tube.  Figure of eight knots tighten in both directions (meet in the middle), tougher to accomplish in tight quarters (like inside the tube or directly resting against the washer)

It's basically an indoor handle without the plastic liner (which never worked after significant flailing anyway 'cause the knot would pass inside the liner eventually.

A doubled strand of 100# hi test bridle line, knots on only one of those strands (easier quick adjustment) is certainly sufficient, and now if you use sleeving it can match the weight and feel of the leader lines.  Big fat dacron lines are a tangle waiting to happen!

The new handles represent "value added" manufacturing principles, .... buying raw materials and adding in your own labor, NOT paying someone else to do any part of the effort.  I'm in the printing industry and all sales people are paid a commission only on "value added".  Nothing on buy-outs because those force a firm to extend credit whilst also incurring expenses (what is the true cost of money?)

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I'm looking at the picture and wondering why the end cap is off, did that become unglued?  Also at the end of the string is something dark, is that part of the handles?

Don't buy different handles those are fine. I haven't seen the handles for the flex but the picture looks like metal handles with one wrap of carbon, or is it a short metal insert at each end?

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1 hour ago, hyzakite said:

I'm looking at the picture and wondering why the end cap is off, did that become unglued?  Also at the end of the string is something dark, is that part of the handles?

Don't buy different handles those are fine. I haven't seen the handles for the flex but the picture looks like metal handles with one wrap of carbon, or is it a short metal insert at each end?

They are metal handles with what looks like, as you described, one wrap of carbon. At the end of the string is a plastic washer, knot then the end cap. I removed it from the handle and slid it down the string for the photo op. :)

Thanks for all the pointers 👍🏻

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  • 1 month later...

i had the same problem.

i undo all the knots and take of the leader witch is long and good.From hardware store i buy 4 round shape head bolts(hexagonal  key) i tide them on the head of handles with a lair of superglue or epoxy, drill them to make the leader to go in and after 24 hours when the glue is cured i cut the original leaders and custom made new knots. from one original leader is enough to make top and bottom for a handle. i used the original rubber caps to cover the heads of the bolts and on top of handles i make winder of rope for better grip and voila good and easy fix IMG_0785(1).jpgIMG_0786(1).jpg

IMG_0787(1).jpg

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Love the ingenious solutions people come up with and post for me to ponder.  The socket head cap screws mentioned come in a great number of sizes & materials.  It would be possible to thread the inside of the Rev handle tubes to allow you to screw the fasteners into the ends.  The lower grade screws would be the most easily drilled.  Stainless & high strength steels are much harder to work with.  The leader end knot could be possilbly be positioned inside the hex hole.  I commonly use this type of fastener to replace hex head cap screws in places that I may need to remove often.  There are many on the old 33 street rod including one that holds the spoon pedal throttle to it's pivot.  It came loose one day as I was about to leave work.  The quick fix was to loosen it & put in a paper clip wire for an interference fit.  It is still in there years later....   SHBKFDSC07113.JPG

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12 hours ago, SHBKF said:

Love the ingenious solutions people come up with and post for me to ponder.  The socket head cap screws mentioned come in a great number of sizes & materials.  It would be possible to thread the inside of the Rev handle tubes to allow you to screw the fasteners into the ends.

Consider using nylon screws -- won't fray the leader as quickly as metal, possibly not at all.

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