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  1. Today
  2. Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app
  3. Exult

    Danish Quad Clinic (Sep 8-9, 2018)

    Also, a bit late, I’d like to thank @drdante and @Louise for the related arrangements.
  4. I've owned (and still do own) some of the higher end quads. I've also owned some that were scraping the barrel for fly-ability. Better kites do open horizons a bit on what I can do with them BUT, the skill to perform those maneuvers is still an absolute required factor.. I don't consider myself an expert flier but I do consider myself a capable one. Put an inferior kite in the hands of an expert and they may fly it to failure but they will still out perform a novice with the best of gear to a point. Skill and equipment are both limiting factors. They can either compliment each other or they can offset each other to the point of absurdity. FWIW, price is not always the determining factor. Given the same kites the better flier will rule the day. Given the same skill level, the kites make the difference.
  5. Yesterday
  6. I disagree. Capable kites produce capable flyers. I didn't really begin to excel until I stepped up to higher end kites. @ Sent from my SM-T380 using Tapatalk
  7. Paul LaMasters

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    scale up a 1.5 b-series platform's dimensions (until you get to the size of a rev one ~ a 20 percent increase). A 30 inch tube is going to now become 36. a sixteen inch magic stick goes to 19.2 using this math (we actually use 18 inches) adding more curvature to the leading edge OVER THE TOP, (not left to right), thru affixing the knots, washers and end-caps down tightly on that leading edge sleeve area, such that all this crap is underneath the sail and in-between the kite and frame. Your hand should fit in there and touch nothing. It's a reflex technology without the mechanism, this creates that killer glide you will so soon come to love! flexible frame turns w/I it's center, or if you added a big curvature built into the leading edge (L-R), a stiffer frame or a straighter leading edge construction will "track" better, but not fill with power as quickly when flailing Quad wings this size will hide any construction flaws, specially during flight dynamics {unless you've really (s)crewed-up big time!} Enjoy the journey, knowledge is the objective, flying your first home-built project is just the thick icing on the cake
  8. Wayne Dowler

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Sorry, just a little jab, didn't mean anything by it. But you now see how hard it can be. Glad riff is helping. He has built more kites in recent history than anyone I know. Do not know of any Zen plan out there. Bazzer made them for Rev. He hasn't built a Phoenix version. I did give riff some measurement for one, maybe he can help.
  9. riffclown

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    SHHHHH!! @DTill Positive no ill intent was there.. The secret is not your first kite.. The secret is, "Is your latest one better than the one before?" As long as that answer is "yes" OR you are learning from the experience then you are making progress. Build it, fly it, learn from it and build the next one better. There will always be critics. Keep in mind EVERY ONE of those critics only knows what you've told them and they've only seen what you've shown them. Ignore the critics and listen to your own self evaluation. Send your kite to a friend who's flying you respect and ask them for their honest opinion. You don't owe anyone anything and I personally am very glad you've started this adventure. I've had a blast and you are on the same path.. Keep it up. Your first one looks far more professional than my first one. I had no pattern and no Rev or other Hadziki Wing to base my design on. Every kite you make has something to teach you. Not every one will be your showcase kite. I look at a few of my early efforts and wonder how they flew at all. FWIW, I still have my first mesh made from tails.. DUCT TAPE reinforcements and all.. As for the design and a little sag, you'll be surprised at how forgiving the sail design is. Finish it up, try it out and learn what it looks like and acts like from 90' away when it's backlit by the sun.. A little sag or a stitch mistake won't show from there. Be willing to make mistakes, you'll learn something new from each and every one of them.
  10. Last week
  11. DTill

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Keeping mesh square is really hard. I should've bound the leading edge when I originally taped it out. Live and learn, it's my first time sewing a kite. Lay off I'm not bazzer. Is this why riff gives me most of his tips in a pm?
  12. DTill

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    I've got enough framing and parts to build 4. Next 2 will be dynemma bonded ultralights. Probably a 1.5 and b2. Might have enough fabric to do a Zen size instead of the B2. Can't find a Zen sized plan anywhere.
  13. Wayne Dowler

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    And you wanted to use the other fabric?!?! Give it a try. Don't like, fix it!
  14. DTill

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    I've got a little sag on the left side of the sail. It would be alot of seam ripping and resewing. How perfect does the first one need to be? Power forward and see how it flys?
  15. riffclown

    Diamond and Mesh Mashup

    I'd have to agree.. i like the diamonds look. I started playing with the layout and used the two strip widths to skew the vertical pattern a bit.. The diamond panels can now mitigate the wear strips and give me a solid pattern vertically. It aligns the solid material with the spars. The center panel in this Photoshop mock-up will be a throwback to my diamonds patterns as well emphasizing the front side and backside of this fabric. One side is shinier that the other and depending on the light angle, looks either very dark blue or almost black. This is one where the entire pattern will have to be laid out flat and basted before doing any sewing.. A true mashup of both designs . The Diamonds have to be fully basted before sewing, the mesh kites have different requirements but this kite will need to have all the techniques done at the same time to keep the sail flat.
  16. DTill

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Creased a 2in tail into double fold bias tape for the LE. Attached 1.1oz. mesh w/ 1in bow in the leading edge. Re-enforced all the corners. Ready for lead edge tomorrow. Thanks for everyones input. Should I change the threads subject to be more appropriate " New guys first kite build ". D.T.
  17. khsidekick

    Diamond and Mesh Mashup

    I like the look of the bigger diamonds they should allow the kite to be flown in lighter winds. Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app
  18. riffclown

    Diamond and Mesh Mashup

    Started hemming some more strips. Starting with 2' Wide finished width and the 1.2 finished width I used on the Snowflake kite (Winter Jacket).. I'm thinking I'll experiment with orientation a bit more this time. Still using the Challenge PolyMax for this venture.. Great fabric without the cost of Icarex. I was able to choose from the wide variety of one color.. The key point here is if the experiment is a failure, it's not an expensive one. This image is about 80% Photoshop with just the base mesh and diamond filler panels in place for one side.. Then mirrored and a center panel drawn in to give me a bit of an idea of what it will yield. Opinions please?? Should I? build this, Go diamond Mesh without the filler panels something entirely different (suggestions are welcome.)
  19. riffclown

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Icarex will hold the crease better than Ripstop Nylon but both will hold a crease. Dacron is in general tougher to fold but really holds the crease. Good thing too, if it din't it would be very hard to keep it in alignment for the leading edge sleeve. The principles of folding the crease are pretty much the same. more effort required for some materials. a lot less pressure for delicate materials.. FWIW,Some fabrics just will not hold a crease and I'm not sure what techniques work best for them . I just don't use them for the most part (personal choice.)
  20. Breezin

    Kick turn

    Lest one thinks perhaps I am gifted. Alas NO!! Hours and hours at this with many,many more to come. I have quite the advantage over most. Winds here are some of the best inland flying to be had. Short week for me is 15 hours. Most are 20+. 50 yards to my kite shed, then 75 to my flying field.Got a variety of kites for 2 mph to 40 mph. It is awful close to kite heaven I think. Yesterday flew the Widow in 8 to 12 in pretty steady winds. 14 degrees but it did warm up to a balmy 18 when I quit. The new move has already helped on the Cynique. Caught the best one ever center window in about 8. Then right foot started getting cold. Blew the dang side out of my boot. Frost is about gone and temps are warming nicely.Cmon Comete, Cascade and Cynique. Hope nothing breaks 😰.
  21. Wayne Dowler

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    While not a builder in any way, my guess is that not all the materials mentioned would hold as sharp a folding mark or crease. Dacron is fairly "stiff" . Sometimes the folding crease is seen on brand new kites, before the kite stretches out some.
  22. Breezin

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Would not the methods being shown for folding dacron apply to most kiting materials?
  23. photomom

    Great Wind, No Sun

    Went out to join in on the community kite fly this past Sunday. Great Wind, No Sun
  24. riffclown

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    If you are using 2" tails for the mesh, why not use 1" tails for your edge binding.. I've used a lot of ribbon tails to accomplish this task personally.. a 30' ribbon tail is usually less than $8. Either way you have options.. Agree with @Paul LaMasters that this is not the place for Dacron. The additional strength and weight creates almost as many issues as it solves.. Icarex or .75 Nylon will do the job nicely and relatively inexpensively. Given your color scheme, Orange would be a nice look.
  25. Paul LaMasters

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    S_T_O_P you don't want a Dacron edge bind, (WAY too heavy & thick) you want 3/4 ounce nylon or 1/2 ounce Icarex,... ideally cut into strips of appropriate thicknesses AND on an angle, like 45 degrees. Lazy? Some kite building suppliers have ready-made rolls of edge binding material (1.5 inch width = 3/8 edge binding final size), but if you have curves to edge bind, making your own will allow it to bend much easier,... curves have to be stretched to fit that shaping, stretching along a curvature is easier in my experience with the material angled. TEST yours first.
  26. A novice flier using world class kites will still produce novice tricks. MUST LEARN TO FLY WITH PURPOSE !!! Err photograph. Sorry it's a kiting thing 😒.
  27. Breezin

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Krijn on GWTW started a excellent thread "folding dacron" in building and repair.
  28. Paul LaMasters

    Bonded dynemma, need design help?

    Agreed, can't even put a price on "experimenting", that is where all of your personal preferences will rise & reign supreme eventually! What do you like on that kite right now?, ... what would you prefer IF it could be changed towards a known objective? (for instance: "I want to be able to catch 120s",... that necessitates a killer glide that can penetrate up-wind predictably.) How much bend in the leading edge construction makes a kite that turns within it's center, but simply WILL NOT rotate on a wing tip? How much stiffness in the leading edge itself prevents that difference from rearing it's ugly head? If the kite will not back-up it might as well not be a quad at all! Tuning the leaders is merely determining where on the handles that "down" (reverse flight/tricks/absolute control) takes effect. I have always been a fan of edge binding personally. Take your binding material and fold it in half, (crease that edge HARD, against a piece of glass or with a steel ruler, then fold those two outside edges in towards the middle, then crease it again, finally place that center (folding as you sew or adhering & folding to sew), such that the edge of the sail is captured in between 2 thicknesses of edge binding on each side. Most folks use a triple zig-zag to effect this binding. STRONGLY consider two rows of straight stitches slightly offset from each other instead. Edge binding makes a hard ribbon that slices thru the air when flying in reverse. The better the ribbon is constructed the better/easier the reverse flight becomes. Ah, but there's always the other side,... what is it in this example you ask? Well the great ribbon you've just finished will vibrate at a different level that a single thickness behind it. Those vibrations will create stress fractures and eventually the single thickness immediately next to the edge binding will fail. Does a shortened lifespan of the sail warrant improved flight dynamics? Only your answer matters! The venting (or holes left open, whatever your solution) along the leading edge "assists" with reverse flight. Do you have to have it? Speed Series Revs don't, they fly backwards almost as fast as a 1.5 will fly forward! Indoor and SUL quads don't need it to fly beautifully in reverse. How wide and where to locate "said venting" might be fun objectives to consider as experiments. Change only one variable at a time so you can control the experiment,... scientific principle. Four variables and wild oversteer happens, but which one made it the worst or which combination of 2 variables totaled such a profoundly negative impact? Hey maybe you'd like MORE oversteer yet, this is fun! Just change one thing at a time. Ideally, do this experimenting with a friend, cooperative projects are simply the best!
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