Kite Boarding
Quickly becoming one of the hot facets of power kiting, kite boarding is something else... Imagine a big skateboard with knobby wheels, and you've got it!
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Didn’t notice any ”lateral slack” in the connectors. But perhaps I’m a kite pilot brute? 🦍 Nope, I have never broken a vertical tube including the 2PT ones. I have heard that the verticals should be sensitive, so of course I switch to other downspars if it is windy and light downspars are no longer needed. Use them 50% of the time in the midvent though. I remeber having seen a picture in an old KL post somewhere where a downspar had snapped in three pieces. At the time I ordered them I hadn’t seen any recommendations – I just wanted a light downspar. After receiving the 2PTs I removed a few cm to get the same tube length as the other tubes. I chose to remove the narrow side because it ”looked reasonable”.
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So Kite #85 is going to be a theme kite, Dual Perspective Mesh. It will start out in Black and White (Leading Edge Black with White Screen) quickly move to color, (Black and Rainbow) Some are "over the rainbow" and in the middle will be a Yellow Brick Pattern, almost like a road. Kite name will be NIKA. The Cool side has been sewn and will be the pattern for the Warm side. "Not In Kansas Anymore" -
I had heard of weights in revs, but good to see updated specific reference here as I have neither tried nor even seen them before. (I expect a search might turn up more info.) Another thing I have just learned here now: 2PT for verticals! On the outdoor kites? Does not the end of a 2PT, particularly the skinny end, just swim loosely in the connectors? I can see maybe going to a 2P as they cost a little less but have less of a fit issue, and are just marginally heavier. Judging from my experience with 2PTs in dual line kites, they are strong for their weight but comparatively fragile (and expensive to replace). Which leads me to my next question: has anyone ever broken a vertical? Any kind of vertical? Other than just stepping on it? Be interested in thoughts on that. With apologies to OP for the diversion… . -
By Paul LaMasters · Posted
Nope, the thick part of the 2PT goes next to the leading edge, you want the weight forward, slack is the key to a solid looking axel, step into it aggressively whilst you punch that forward handle thumB slack you can wAlk in, not just catching the sleeve button on your shirt! -
Weights? – didn’t know that there were any. I never got any that I can remember when buying my set of B-series. Yes, axels are possible to do without them as we know, but I find the Fulcrum more forgiving especially when learning axels and the bridleless Rev Indoor more naturally prone to do (flat) axels (not that the Rev Indoor otherwise would be a beginner friendly kite). I most often use 2PT as downspars on my B-series std and midvent. Just out of habit I have the thick side of these light tapered spars closest to the LE. Perhaps I instead should have the narrow side closest to the LE and the slightly heavier side closest to the TE?
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