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    • Clicking this graphic on the home page will still bring up the Classic Night for you, and other Rev products. It appears to be the expected graphics and colors. http://www.awindofchange.com/product/Rev-Classic-NIGHT.html
    • Yeah, they've been responsive when I've worked with them. I think Kent and Daelyn run a great shop.  I ordered a quiver of that color combo from their site years ago (see my profile pic to the left) and absolutely love the neon colors. I hope the updated reflex version looks as good as the older edition.
    • I just fly the right vent configuration to match the wind range instead. Have flown in 25mph gusting to 35mph using an extra vent with no problem. Above that use a Vicki. Also, this set-up will cause a sudden stop in the flex which is MORE likely to BREAK a spar than save one. Hey, John, what are the wind ranges on the vented Djinn models?
    • lay the kite flat on the ground, (no flying lines) is it flat? now suspend it in the air by the top two attachment points (ONLY) of the bridle.  A "OFF" ceiling fan or a personal helper in the den holding one side? If the bridle "cups" air pressure ( a curved surface as in photo 3) that is good for low wind, slack line tricking, maybe even giving a lesson. If the frame is more flat/stiffer it will track better (stay on the line you've placed it upon) **** Make certain the frame has no distortion when suspended by the top two points ONLY.  Move or adjust legs to fit this objective. In photo 2, it appears to me, you can add some little loop bridle extensions (on the corners/ends of the leading edge) between frame end-cap & the actual bridle, try an inch diameter loop first, .... objective is to restrict or NOT move those end caps on the corners of the LE towards the pilot during hard forward flight commands (or in a big wind).   Conversely, you could let out the center of the bridle instead, longer, try a few various lengths in an effort to dial it in.  Watch out for excessive wiggle at the center bridle attachment point on the LE, that is making "slop", or smoothing out\diluting pilot commands, necessitating a pre-load (Whump) It will be harder to break a spar with everything on the bridle legs pulling up tightly but still flat!  It will also impact the low end of the wind range (gone or lessened) and alter the flight dynamics of your flailing actions,..... (more pilot effort necessary to refill the sail or dump the air)  Everything is a balance between your ultimate objectives and some awful bad crap you didn't want happening at all!!!! Alter the bridle to save the frame?
    • His task in TURBO BRIDLE is to increase the flexibility range of the upper frame, which significantly reduces its damage in a sudden and strong gust of wind (I broke 6 tubes in 3 months)
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