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  2. Hello @Grrtt638, Welcome to KiteLife®! Although this is an automated message, it is written with heart - I love kites deeply, and I believe the KiteLife community represents this passion with a very friendly and helpful environment for everyone. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Need to tweak settings? Edit your profile here - View Member Edit your settings - http://kitelife.com/forum/settings/ Other than that, here are a few handy links that you might have a use for... Member Chat Member Map KL Shop And while it's never an obligation, we always love hearing about our new members if you'd like to share some of your kite stories, videos, and/or background... Tell us a little about YOUR kite life!
  3. Yesterday
  4. Hello @Dan Price, Welcome to KiteLife®! Although this is an automated message, it is written with heart - I love kites deeply, and I believe the KiteLife community represents this passion with a very friendly and helpful environment for everyone. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Need to tweak settings? Edit your profile here - View Member Edit your settings - http://kitelife.com/forum/settings/ Other than that, here are a few handy links that you might have a use for... Member Chat Member Map KL Shop And while it's never an obligation, we always love hearing about our new members if you'd like to share some of your kite stories, videos, and/or background... Tell us a little about YOUR kite life!
  5. Looking for the following kites. Vented Eclipse Vented Illusion Alien Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
  6. Hey all this is Baileydl79, I use to run around on the Revkites forum under nobodyspecial for a minute, former east coaster now in DFW area.
  7. I use a tapered 2P in my 1.5 SULs as the vertical. Heck I even have a set for my Zen (oh man are they ever delicate, NO hard flailing allowed) The one I prefer is called a "Response" it's painted and silky smooth finished, alas long since discontinued too. I have 'em in different strengths. Like a set in my Shook Mesh Hybrid 75%. It carries the 150 CLX fat spars in the LE (more curvature OVER the leading edge make a better glide, ~ like a frisbee compared to a dinner plate) The SULs get one that weighs 12 grams @ 32-1/2 inches long. I cut down the FAT end to fit, keeping as much bottom strength as possible. The tube is also reinforced thru the use of Magic Sticks pushing from the other side. "Response 12" Through the use of a tapered down spar you have effectively pushed more weight towards the LE, in my opinion that always helps create a better glide. Add a little momentum and you can fly when others struggle. something for nothing! You can go further to the outside edge of the wind window too. Keep the hard flailers away or at least warn 'em, if you've framed very light w/tapered tubes These tubes were blemished and got 'em for a like 2 bucks a piece, easily 15 years ago. So although delicate don't think they aren't durable. Skyshark makes a great product for a profoundly ridiculously low price. Try a set of their fat tubes (CLX-150's?) too. The whole frame is like $36. Insane value, I mostly only use the LE unless it's really bookin' outside. NOTE: This tube REQUIRES Rev end caps, other knock-off brand caps will have to be swapped out. Experimenting with the "travel-frame format" allows even more personal adjustments to be found. Plus it breaks down smaller
  8. Here are some kite aerial shots of Ormož Basins Nature Reserve, an important bird sancutary in Prlekija region of Slovenia. Please read a sweet story about nature conservationists and heavy agroindustry working together to preserve a truly special ecosystem!
  9. Glad meet you also. Or maybe it was remeet? Anyway, riff probably has more info on those SkySharks than I do. I know Rev, others, not so much.
  10. Only going to use tapered rods in the verticals on one kite. Every thing else will be standard frames. I'll probably order some Px 2&3 frames in red or camo. Whatever is available. Thanks for the input. And thanks Wayne for the indoor lessons. It was nice to meet you.
  11. Last week
  12. Sorry - no builder here. We just use what came in the kites - P series spars. Haven't been on their website to compare with anything else .... Being you build, my guess is that you would have the better idea on them!
  13. Would like to just clarify some of the terminology with regards to Skyshark. Please correct me if I've said anything in error here. P200 is pretty close to P2X, P2X Red and P2X Camo P300 is pretty close to P3X Red P400 is pretty close to P4X, P4X Red and P4X Camo Now a P2T, P3T etc.. would be a tapered rod and is a different animal entirely. The tapered rods are used more often in the Duallies as you suggested. concerning the P2X Red and P3X Red Rods XT =Tapers XL = Extra Long Per Kites and Fun things Website FWIW, I keep a P90 frame in my bag right beside the Rev Diamond frame.
  14. Our outdoor Phoenix kites are using P100, P300, and P400 SkyShark rods. One of our team members went with P2's once as a trial, but a piece of the LE broke. Typically P2's are used as dually frame parts, as they don't have as big a distance to span. Plus the dually designs usually don't put as big a stress on them. P90 is as light as I've seen on quads.
  15. Welcome. In the trick flying section on page 3 is a great link. Comprehensive trick tutorials posted by Jonesz. I've used it more than videos. Further down the same post is another that takes you to Randy Greenaways videos. I started with Dodd Gross videos and I think most would agree everyone needs to watch his stuff. The Turtle and Axle are basic moves that are used to transition into more advanced tricks. Your next step 😊.Learn them simultaneously so you don't get to frustrated. Stalls are something I practice every time out. Simple as you develop but so important for timing. My slide stalls although getting nicer looking are still difficult to hold all the way from edge to center.Some say that Slides are a low wind trick. I try them no matter the wind speed because it makes me better in other things. My rising Turtles have about the same success ratio.While seemingly simple both the Slide and Rising are difficult to hone. One day I'm doing good and pretty satisfied. Next day winds different, on a different kite and not so good.Heck must be the kite. Grab the kite from the day before and nope it's ALWAYS me.Some kites will do some tricks better than others. My Hydra rolls up a lot easier than my Mind Trick for example. Mind Trick excels in Turtle based tricks but when my TIMING is ON I can roll it up with relative ease.
  16. I typically order the P2X camo & P4X camo rods. they work great. Light wind kites I frame P2X. Oversize, I'll swap out the center for P4X. Sometimes I'll swap out the whole frame depending on the kite. The P2x red rods are pretty much the same as the P2x camo. I haven't done one so light that I would use a tapered frame yet. There is merit to a tapered frame in ultralight applications but I personally havenot done it. For the record, I've yet to break a camo rod.
  17. Just ordered enough material for 4-6 new kites. Some will be built using Gomberg tails, others built from polymax from flymart. This question should probably Pmed to Riff but thought I'd share it. Ordered some new frames in P2X & P3x ,from "Kites and fun things" that I later found are sold out. Does one frame these in P300 - 400's, or frame them lighter. Will P-200-300's be fine. thinking about ordering 10 P100's & 10 P200S. I've done some with 3PT's as uprights and liked the results. going to go the cheap route and only run blems, as I've only had one bad one. Thoughts? DT
  18. Hi, and welcome to the forum. Lots of flyers in the Midwest. Attend as many festivals as possible, even if you have to drive a couple hours. Check the member maps at the top of the page.
  19. frob

    Line Set Age???

    Knots are weak points to be sure, so the knot you use is important. People have done comparisons of different knots and their breaking strength, you can find many comparisons at climbing web sites since they risk their lives based on the strength of their knots and ropes. Fishing sites also have comparisons of knot breaking strength. In addition to the choice of knot, the sleeve generally improves strength of the knot. Overhand knots are rather weak knots, giving about half the breaking strength, meaning a line that normally breaks at 100 lbs will instead break at around 50 lbs with an unsleeved overhand knot. Adding sleeving will add some strength, but it still breaks relatively easily. That means your 90# line with an unsleeved overhand knot breaks at about 45, your 150# line breaks at about 75, your 300# breaks at 150. Obviously not ideal. A figure 8 loop is only slightly more effort to tie and has a much higher breaking strength, around 70%-80% strength unsleeved and around 90% sleeved, and is the knot most climbers use for their harnesses. If you can spend the time and effort, a splice loop is nearly 100% of full strength, and will be strongest.
  20. Yesterday winds started fairly low in the am increasing to a little above 20 at times later on. I always do best in higher winds on days like that. Going out when the wind is already at 20 can be intimidating and difficult to get settled into a groove. Started on 100' x 90# LPG that are a few months old. When winds started going over 15 I should have switched to 150#. Having a lot of fun didn't really think about it.Last time I broke a 90# line was when a gust went over 25. 2 1/2 hours on my vented I was getting gassed. Switched to my much lighter pulling Psycho. Hour in line popped at the kite end sleeve. From wind speed? Maybe. From a nick or to many wraps at times? More likely both.Psycho is so quick lines can be squeaking before you know it. From age? Nope. Breaks happen and are a easy in the field fix.Most breaks happen at the sleeves. When fixed you lose about a foot of line and off ya go. Getting the kite down spinning out of control at a high rate of speed without damage . That is a relief and oddly satisfying. Think you said the Prism set was $65.00. 300 yds of 90# LPG is $85.00 shipped with sleeving. $95.00 for 150#. Better lines and the more economical way to go.When I bought my 1st lineset I got a 130# x 100' HQ set. Although not bad and needed, in hindsight I would have saved for some bulk line. Flew the heck out of those HQ lines though. Think they were marginally better(less adjusting) than my Prism and did get my money's worth.When flying my 1.4 foil I use the stock Prism 150# until they're worn out cause on SMALL foils I too don't think it makes a big difference.
  21. Hello @Sergio, Welcome to KiteLife®! Although this is an automated message, it is written with heart - I love kites deeply, and I believe the KiteLife community represents this passion with a very friendly and helpful environment for everyone. Please feel free to browse around and get to know the others. If you have any questions please don't hesitate to ask. Need to tweak settings? Edit your profile here - View Member Edit your settings - http://kitelife.com/forum/settings/ Other than that, here are a few handy links that you might have a use for... Member Chat Member Map KL Shop And while it's never an obligation, we always love hearing about our new members if you'd like to share some of your kite stories, videos, and/or background... Tell us a little about YOUR kite life!
  22. Welcome to kitelife. If you don't get someone bear you to answer here I would recommend heading out to the nearest kite festival and talking to everyone flying what you fly. You would find out who is near you that way too. Have fun. Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using KiteLife mobile app
  23. the difference is what you want the adhesive to do,... I want the bond to survive a hard thrashing, banging superglue is how you break that bond, it isn't flexible in the slightest. Say you were making a rubber band powered glider, parts of it are superglued (those are intended to break away on impact ~ like each of the wings from the fuselage) and parts of it are assembled with 2 part epoxy (available at any hardware store, you mix it on a paper plate, a couple of minutes to turn milky colored with a toothpick or stick from the yard). These are pieces that are intended to survive an impact without separation,... epoxy has a little flexibility. Say the rudder and tail section, they probably wouldn't be the first point of impact from powered flight ending anyway. <LOL> Cleaning out the release agent and roughing up the edge of the ferrule may seem like overkill, but it's not that tough to do it perfect. You need an emory board for finger nails (or some other gentle abrasive), a paper towel and skinny insertion device (like a coat hanger) heck even an ear cleaning swab with alcohol on it, or windex will work. You don't want to adhere to the releasing agent (used to get the stick off of the mandrel when it was made!) Building up the stopper thickness with electrical tape makes a nice clean bonded edge (also prevents over insertion), as it just removes the excess epoxy overflow as unwrapping takes place. Wait for it to dry first!!! I carry a repair kit, you can bet both kinds of adhesive are in there too. But if I can wait until I get off of the beach I can do it right! Placing the ferrules into the outside pieces of the leading edge assembly just seems like a no-brainer to me. No "both ends sealed with solid ferrules", also the kite "breaks down shorter" (my A-bag is an oversized fishing rod case from Orvis). Lastly, on a personal level, I run a different bridle from most folks so my kites bend on the other 3rds instead of in the middle, therefore I also prefer a varying degree of flex in the LE. That is accomplished by use of a travel frame layout with stiffer members in position two and five from the other 4 spots along a six piece leading edge. Usually green race (2) and diamonds (4). for convenience these tubes are taped together in pairs making a three piece LE. I want more stiffness at the intersection of the down spars and LE. Having the ferrules on the outside 2 LE pieces makes changing the flex easier for me on site. I will grant that I do almost nothing as others do, I've spent lots of time experimenting and testing for my own preferences,... over decades in fact. The great thing about kiting is .... "you take the best and dump the rest!" As you'll hear hundreds of ways to get to your promised land.
  24. Greetings everyone I'm new to kiting, I have a drone and it always seems too windy to fly! so you guessed it I purchased my first kite a quantum fell in love Instantly now I fly my drone NEVER kites kites kites just purchased my third a hypnotist my other is a zenith 7. I need help though I cant do any freaking tricks loop de loops and ish!!! Just pulled off a snap stall landing and it was orgasmic, lead it to the outside edge snapped it and boom touchdown and lift off. Tried several times again but couldn't stick the landing. I will practice practice practice just need one other little beginner trick to amazing my wife who thinks in out there just flapping my arms lol. Thanks in advance by the way I'm near Indianapolis if anyone is willing to take on a student
  25. Finally got a chance to fly it a bit on short lines. Used my travel frame. Winds near Boston today were 18-25 and whipping pretty soundly.. Kite was great. It ate the gusts like they weren't even there. Nice balanced pressure across the entire sail area. Kite responded like a whip when the proper inputs were given. reaction time on short lines was crazy
  26. frob

    Spars and Parts

    Out of curiosity, any reason why superglue wouldn't work for re-attaching a ferrule? I know not to use certain types of glue, such as the expanding Gorilla Glue since the stuff can cause a spar to swell up, but I've used superglue (cyanoacrylate) for them at the recommendation of people here and elsewhere. Acetone (nail polish remover) will dissolve cyanoacrylate glue, making it easier to clean up in case of drips, or to remove an already-placed ferrule.
  27. WAIT don't push the flush ferrule inside further, that will change the flexing of the overall shape on the LE don't re-glue it with superglue, instead use two part 5 minute epoxy (less brittle), Build a stopper with vinyl electrical tape so it can NOT go in too far. Clean out the releasing stuff from the inside of the spar with a toothbrush and some windex, rough-up the end of the ferrule that will be accepting the adhesive In the future, affix the ferrules to the outside tubes instead of the center one, it breaks down shorter length overall and you'll never have this experience again! "Feel along the spars" during assembly, to insure this doesn't happen on other kites. I carry a long skinny (point 125" carbon) tube to push thru the leading edge members, if necessary. There's no easy solution to the tube you cannot currently use. I carry spares but that doesn't help you. See if the other side can be loosen up and removed entirely. Then push out the stuck ferrule with a carefully straightened-out coat hanger? sometimes the stuck ferrule can be tapped out against a piece of soft pine wood, but don't count on a complete lack of peripheral damage
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