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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/28/2018 in all areas

  1. Here's a video I created of two glider kites made by Thomas Horvath. They are purchased as a set of kites and are both made with a Spectra Laminate sail material. The first half of the video shows the "I'll be Back" glider kite, the second half is the "C'est La Vie, Darling" kite. As with most Horvath kites, the names are unique I hope you enjoy the video https://www.youtube.com/embed/fZDEefycPag
    3 points
  2. I made up a couple of extra sets to convert standard handles to no snags. Shoot me a PM and I can post them out. Sent from a Galaxy 8 Far Far Down Under.
    2 points
  3. As Nick said punched holes are indicated by the type of burr I have seen. I spent many years buying punches & dies in an industrial setting. As the punch & die sets wear the clearances open up from ideal as wear occurs. The punch diameter gets smaller & the die opening enlarges. Punching stainless steel is especially problematic. The enlarging die & shrinking punch open up the clearance to the point that the smearing of metal occurs instead of a clean break. A punch & die is actually just a circular shearing operation. An ideal punch presses/cuts part way through the thickness of the material then a fracture occurs breaking the remainder of the way through the metal leaving a nice clean hole. As you might visualize a die that fits inside of a small tube is a very special piece of tooling. We did this type of punch operation with similar outcome. The normal good practice would be to simply deburr each piece as part of the process. It is a production compromise to merely cover it with a vinyl cap. The first time I saw a handle with these burrs I said "Ah, production trumps quality once more." If the hole size is not too critical you can keep punching until the punch breaks. SHBKF
    2 points
  4. Lot of energy going into this, at the end of it all it's up to the end user what they want buy, I got what I needed think we can all tell the difference😉
    2 points
  5. Two of my favorite flights from an excellent 4-person Squad Clinic weekend with @Sari Alexandra Becker, @Katrina and @Mark Giadone, this is all footage from the second day (much improved over the first)... We had even smoother and tighter flights after this was filmed but the camera wasn't running, you know how that goes. 100% freestyle, no routine, the pilots have no idea what is coming next - order of maneuvers is all off the top of my head. Second set starts at 4:54, FYI, less bodies in front in front of the camera.
    1 point
  6. So I came to a rude awakening yesterday.. Despite my best attempts, it's really hard to get all my framed quads in an easy configuration for travel.. Part of this is because I don't know how to leave ANYTHING behind.. Given that I've made a bunch of kites since my last outing to OBX, I decided to make a dig bag. I came up with a 11"x11"x44" pumpkin of a bag after visiting Joann's Fabrics this morning.. I picked up some Orange duck cloth and zippers that all combined with a tiedown strp I had handy to form this bag.. Definitely a first effort but also a usable item.,,Lots of space for Revs, Freileins and home mades. So far, it has my home made rolloup bag, My Freilein Dig bag with all the Revs and both the Freilein and Spectrum stacks inside with room to spare.. Pretty sure it will hold ALL of my framed quads without breaking a sweat..
    1 point
  7. You mean short little pigtails to attach my leaders to, instead of attaching my leaders directly over the screw, right? This is something I already do. Mostly because I spend a lot of time painting each knot with nail polish, and so now when I get a break, I simply remove the broken pigtail, add a new one, re-attach my leaders, and I'm good to go without having to paint another set of leaders. Make sense?
    1 point
  8. You would benefit much by taping together the pieces being sewn . No more pucker. If the tension on your machine is adjusted correctly, the panels will be perfectly flat when sewn together. You may be able to get all that pucker out by grabbing the ends of the seam and pulling hard and twisting/torquing the length of the seam. PM me your mailing address and I will send you a roll of 3M 9460 transfer tape for free. Google it. If you check the build threads on any of the kite forums you will see it mentioned frequently. I have a bunch more than I will ever need, and it's light enough to send 1st class mail.
    1 point
  9. Ha, you read my mind - literally thought of that when typing my last reply.
    1 point
  10. Remember, if anyone would like to experience something like this: round up 3 or 5 pilots including yourself (adding me to make 4 or 6) and message me privately to discuss possibles dates and details - it’s a ride you’ll never forget, with TONS of on the job instruction. 😉
    1 point
  11. But yes, as Wayne alluded to, watch out for the sharp places. As for that burr, those holes are punched, not drilled. That's why they are so rough. < handle with caution >
    1 point
  12. There are a few other ways that people have come up with to make this modification, but this is the simplest, fastest and least expensive of them all. It works and it lasts a long time. The only addition I would suggest is "sacrificial" loops to attach the leaders if you fly more than 10 hours per week.
    1 point
  13. Nothing new Sari, just a warning that there is a VERY SHARP flake of metal, where the holes were drilled for the ring. Be careful it doesn't cut you as you remove the vinyl cap. Use good pliers to open the ring and don't scar up the vinyl cap as you take everything apart. You'll reuse it. First set takes maybe an hour to do, after that, much less. Good, cheap, easy way to do snagless out of regular handles.
    1 point
  14. Short video of some of my progress after flying quads for nearly 2 years give or take a couple of months. Thanks to all the people that have helped and continue to do so along the way. Really has opened a whole new world, an amazing community [emoji847] Sent from my [device_name] using http://KiteLife mobile app
    1 point
  15. Two entries thus far... Still a few days left! == @skline == @esinger
    1 point
  16. On my street rig I did something similar to sacrificial loops, but slightly different. When my bridle wore out at an end cap, I trimmed the old bridle down to the knot for the loop. Tested it to be sure it would hold under load. Then made loops long enough to replace the originals and larksheaded them on using the knot still on the bridle. Seemed that all the wear was occurring at the loops, why replace a whole bridle? Cheap but effective fix.
    1 point
  17. Went back into the shop today and purchased the Box Kite with twin matching tails! Running 250 lb line for lifting laundry. Island Life | UFUV | Kite Life Subscriber 1482
    1 point
  18. I have found that DC and double-DC kites fly WAY better than traditional flat Deltas. I have a number of both, and that's been my experience. I've talked with others who claim to never have problems with regular deltas, but I find that they have a smaller wind range, and are not very tolerant of anything but smooth wind. Ghost or Pyro deltas are a different story, they are very stable in a wide variety of winds, but the traditional triangle delta is not a set it & forget it kind of kite, they will end up on the ground if not constantly tended to. One exception to this in my collection is an 11' mesh delta, that isn't too bad, but still ends up on the ground unexpectedly. The DC and double DCs can be staked out and fly for hours, and will be in the sky where you left them unless the wind drops. By far, this is my favorite, it flies in 5-25 mph winds, bumpy, choppy, or smooth... all day long.
    1 point
  19. And he could still glide it better than either of us... Bloody mutant.
    1 point
  20. As usual my passions get the better of me and brother JB swoops in and helps me recognize I need to reign it in. Thanks, JB. Here's the deal,@SoggyWombat, for years, I proudly flew Revs and recommended them to anyone that asked and taught folks how to fly them, putting my own equipment that I paid for at risk of damage with no thought of compensation if something were to happen. Went did I do this? Because they are fun as hell to fly and I wanted to share that with anyone who showed interest. It was worth it, because I thought Rev was worth it and that the feeling was mutual. Then all of a sudden by some of their actions, it became abundantly clear to me and many other fliers that their only care was the dollars they could take in, not the fliers on the fields teaching the general public the awesomeness of this 4-lined thrill to fly, the retailers who were their lifeline for years getting their product in the hands of fliers, not the teams who spent hours practicing to perfect routines and show the world how great these kites are, and especially not the beginner flier spending multiple hundred of dollars on an entry level kite with the incorrect "Club whatever" guidance to get them going. We finally saw that the emperor had no clothes and it was funny to us. So we mock, and will continue to mock as long as there's ammunition for mockery (like calling a kite that is an identical copy of the B Series a 1.5 Classic and pretending that it's a whole new kite like no one will notice) coming out of Poway.
    1 point
  21. When the party in question fails to respond when private inquiries are made, when they take money for a product that is not as advertised (or intentionally change the specifications of a product after an order is placed and paid for without telling the buyer), when said company consistently ignores or belittles the suppliers, retailers, and customers that have helped grow their business for many years, they've called their own integrity into question. It is sad what they've done to themselves. What's even sadder is that I think they are so arrogant of their standing that they can't see the farce they are acting out for all of us. So...sorry, they won't get my money, and I will continue to mock them every chance I get. They have made themselves a joke, and for what I have spent on their kites in the past, I've paid for the right to point it out.
    1 point
  22. Last clarification, iQuad started flying on SLE sails in late 2006, the B-Series was released in January of 2008, Bazzer came on board with iQuad as a pilot sometime around the end of that same year - he built the first B-Series Pros around early 2009... Very slight adjustment in paneling for build integrity, but essentially the same kite at a much higher quality and durability. Myself, I was a sponsored Rev pilot from 1992 through 2016 - 24 great years, 15 US national quad championships, 6 out of Rev's 8 KTAI industry awards from 2007 to 2012 for the success of both iQuad and the B-Series (both factory and Pro), well over a hundred clinics and workshops worldwide, and an average of 25-35 events flown every year (2002 and later). All good, I know what I built (with the support of other real fliers) - and how to build it again. #TKL #stormrising #beaboutitnotjusttalkaboutit
    1 point
  23. B-Tray Sent from my iPhone using KiteLife mobile app
    1 point
  24. There are several names for it.. B-Flex B-Cause they can B-Tray,, The company that's shouted the loudest about copies to avoid paying the originators is now guilty of copying themselves, too and for the same reason. How sad...
    1 point
  25. i am sure JB is having an Ace on the sleeve and soon a new Barresi kite will emerge on the market
    1 point
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