Posts posted by Edmond Dragut
bottom is at around 0.25 top at 0.5
on Ohio you have inland winds which are twitchy irregulars and shifting. For learning you need the right sail for right wind and from your description you will not launch a full vent in low wind. Deca is another animal and is build for low and no wind. So…try a full sail in brise and low wind if the winds are a bit stronger mid vent and on stronger winds pull out the full vent.
Leaders setup may be another reason, start from 1st knot on bottom and 4th from top and work your way down on top till the kite is not launching any more, move back 1 knot and you are good to go
No matter what frame you have on to a full vent if the wind is not strong enough you will not launch, yes when you have experience you will fly in lower winds, but you will need a minimum
from what i know is not something like that, any way, any button will save you if you are out is not pressed so...a phone on watherproof casing will do the job ore the best do not waterkiting alone. that i think is the first smart thing what may be done
hello, i am a quad kite guy so...
On quad you have all what you need to cove the most winds conditions. You have a Rev Indoor for indoor, pick a Rev I and Rev 1.5 that will be for light to medium winds pick any vented for medium up. you have a Blast and Super Blast for some speed and power pull, Sockwave and Rev II for speed. For different than Rev you have Fulcrum witch will cover low to medium winds with a bigger pull than Revs.
For some pull the quad foils you have will do the job
ok, let’s start with basics. If the kite is having 150 lbs. line recommendation that means the kite on the highest winds manufacturer find the kite to pull 120-130 lbs. and is give you some reserve. Now adding any more dragging to that line like a laundry you must to add at least from the anchor to laundry cumulate both pulls. let say the laundry is 10 lbs. himself and is having 50 lbs. pull you need to add to that line from 150 another 60 lbs. so you will go on 210 lbs., again at least to the part from anchor to the laundry. If the laundry is 100 lbs. weight and pull you have 250 lbs. and so one.
Another thing you need to take on consideration is the pull capability of the kite. A 150 lbs. pull kite will lift or not a 50 lbs. laundry? The answer is YES but on certain wind conditions witch you will find them experimenting.
line damage usualy you will find it to late, after a breack or after fly sesion. why ? new lines are having a limites elongation and if we do not speack about higher than 700lbs you will not here any sound or sign of that. At high weight lines when elongation reatch the limit you will start hearing not a buzz a really high pitch note comming from the inside fibers under brided cover. the buzz is not elongation is just vibration under the wind
also if recommended line is 150 use 200 for safety but on the same time that is the maximum weight of lifting, any tail and line laundry is adding theirs own puling so...i am nor so shore the Hibridoid will be to happy
they are more stiffer than others brands for that the reaction is faster. They are good quality
if you just start fly again try 120' on 50 ore 90#. Rev II is a speed devil and longer line give you more time to react and correct
for testing tail use a garbage bag, cut strips and there you are. if is unstable and wobbling left to right at that shape is almost nothing to be done to stabilize except bridle check and recheck to be equal. tide the bridle on the center of the circles to give them the chance to let the wind to flow free. teste after that a tension line from left to right and have at least 2 inches bow on the center. for start i will try a 3 point bridle ,top left, right. top to be long from center of circle till to the center of midle spar (C-D). left and righr to be longs from center to center of circles (A-B and B-A), will be a tetrahedrom with base on center of the circles and 2 sides equal with the base AB and BA third one (top) CD. pointy top of tetrahedrom will be X. Take reference from last pic postedOn 6/28/2021 at 10:46 PM, David56 said:
good luck and keep us on the loop
A D B
John T. making the setups for your kite is the best thing what may happend. About your Revs waith a bit till you will met somebody to check te bridle and make setups for you. I am not a fan of new generation Rev but is not worthing to get rid of them befor a an experienced flier try them for you.
Generaly you will have more strugaling with Rev becouse is not a 3D kite
for two leg on the way you describe the kite must to be perfect balanced left/right. on 4 legs will not work because you transform the sail in to a parachute and will break the spare. I will try to bow the horizontal spar with a tension line (light color circles) and try to see the effect. another modification what i will do will be to rise the lower leg of bridle upper than the bottom circle.
I assume the bridle is not equal, top and bottom. If that is the case i will play with the tow point making the top leg shorter.
building a kite is a try and correct process especially the bridle.
Let us know the evolution
P.S. on my experience top leg is approximately 2/3 and less from bottom one. a tail will help also
not long time ago I never see me flying from a chair. Now is fun to stay down on the grass or sand and look around at bystanders scratching their heads trying to figure out who is at the end of the lines.
congrats! the most important things like setup of the line for a successful maneuver is to have some breaks, if you are one of the guys who fly with all drive this is one of the difficulties
a chocker will not work to good if the kite is not have openings in the back to lose the presure. Trilobites are an inflatable sled and have that opening but is not hard (is an work out yes) with a reel or carabine on the tow line especialy becose is not fly at to a high angle, most of them are are fly somwere at 55-60 degree witch is makeing resonable to be bring down.
what line strengt is recomanded for that trilobit? 600, 1000 ? if is not 1500 you will be able to bring him down alone without any proablems
adding the holes will make the bol to spin faster and also to lose pressure faster. if i am not wrong to prevent the collapse first thing will be to give a longer towing line. that will make the bol to auto adjust better in wind window left to right.
a second remedy may be to add more bridle, smaller space in between will keep better the edge
for sure dominant hand play a role here but also pay attention at the wind window, if you are to far out kite is falling at the stop to mirroring the revers. a help here is to make some steps back to increase the pressure in sail till the wind will do the rest after couple of fits back in.
a second factor is the line length and strength who create drag and at the edge of wind window forcing the kite to turn more then wanted and expected, you will find that if you use shorter or thinner lines may do better
still young if that is all you have, give another year, and let us know what is in your bag😇
about wind range: on the paper is one on the field is a bit different. a standard will need 3 mph and steps back to launch but to maintain the fly is depending by the pilot and that may happen even at 1 mph with stepping back and hovering in reverse for recovery how makatakam said. for vent, full vent and megaevent "reaccommodated" wind speed is more than informational, your flying abilities are the ones who will make the difference on the lower range. Yes, you will need a minimum wind speed for each of them but again your abilities are the one who dictate that real minimum necessary. The maximum range is more dictated by the frame and your willing to fight with the pulling.
i will be in Naperville Sunday
handle lines? I assume from the pictures you ask about leaders. Most of us use John Barresi model. Longer than factory with multiple knots for fine adjustment.
If I am not wrong the top ones are around 9 inches long with knots from ¾ to ¾ with 7 knots. Bottom ones are around 4-5 inches with knots from ½ to ½ with 4 knots.
you will find to buy new here
actualy frob Fulcrum is having a lot more foward drive than bowtie shape, the glide must be controlled better than a regular Rex witch have the gravity center closer to leading edge.
Fulcrom need to be controlled ALL the time, any slack line will make the kite to react becouse of the simetrical shape also the wind is not create that "bely" like Rev and that is making him to pull stronger. Any thing you do with Rev you may do with Fulcrum and even more, the shape of the kite is eliminate completly " the walk of shame" and on acrobatics you may perform the turtle withaut to crash ore lose control witch for Rev you need the right wind conditions and many many houres of training just for that.
Is mi opinion
9 hours ago, Bunduki Vlieger said:
From beginner (with only 1 year experience) to beginner. BUT this is only my personal opinion:
--> 1. look for experienced pilots to fly with. 2. look for experienced pilots to fly with. 3. look for experienced pilots to fly with.
the best of the best short advice !!! all others are valid to, most of the time we learn be best way on the hard way, you may be that guy but that is easy to be avoided with a 150-200 miles trip to meet an experienced pilot. Gas you will find easy on front to try to replace a spar or repair the sail9 hours ago, Bunduki Vlieger said:
I see many started on the first Revs but I see mixed reviews on the newer models like the XX.
--> My first quad was also an XX. However, I broke two rods in gusts. (Never had a broken bar since, by the way.) The bars are way too expensive and the Reflex spring unnecessary.
Rather go directly to the 1.5 Shape.
Any 1.5 brand is good. depending how serios you want to fly buy advanced models on front entry levels. on long run that will save you money9 hours ago, Bunduki Vlieger said:
any brand, models I should avoid as a beginner?
--> Buy used instead of new. Buy 2 (used) for different wind ranges (instead of 1 new kite).
check eBay, here on Sell section, on marketplace of Facebook, any used kite for begining is better than a new one till you learn to avoid crashing.
DO NOT FORGET, buy the first sail acordingly with the winds on your area. the wrong sail will not give you the chance to advance fast enough before the frustration to kick in and make you lose the intrest. The wind media on your area seams to be 13 Mph (http://www.usa.com/camano-island-wa-weather.htm) so I sugest you to start with a mid vented sail witch will give you from 5 to 12 wind range without to be to less or to much to fight with. In time you may go with a full sail for lover than 7 and full vent for more than 12. an extra vent will follow for sure in time to cover that special days with hard winds
where whose that auction ?
3 hours ago, riffclown said:
That was an intentional omission. Like the HQ Mojo, I don't consider the Fulcrum a beginner quad
mi bad then. I was not expected to be intentional how long was not any connection about shape and learning. Mojo with a small adjustment of the bridle is at the same level with EXP. my opinion
5 hours ago, riffclown said:
I have owned Revs, Freileins, Phoenix, and a wide range of quads.I still own most of those and what I've sold was only because of overlap and not because of issues. Most of the quads made right now are of at least decent quality. A few like the Djinn really stand out. The most common stick point with Revs is Where they added Springs to everything, Some like them some do not. (I'm of the latter opinion)
riffclown forget to mention another new quad come on the market, Fulcrum. Is a good versatile wind ranges and robust quad but not to easy for learning do the perfect simetry between top and botton witch at the beghining may be confusing. Main advantage is you may launch from any kite position eliminating "the walk of shame" but...without this walk of shame sometime you loose some of determination to learn more and better
Hq Toxic II and a control bar
in Power Kites
yes you may do that but is possible to need some lenght ajustments for brackes. If that is the case make sure that are equal