frob

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frob last won the day on January 29

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About frob

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    Member
  • Birthday April 18

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  • Favorite Kite(s)
    Like asking me to choose my favorite child.
  • Flying Since
    1984
  • Country
    United States

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  1. frob

    Djinn ST by Kite Forge (2/21/19)

    While normally I'd be against invasive species, I see very few things wrong with that plan other than the RNG generating the wrong number.
  2. frob

    Djinn ST by Kite Forge (2/21/19)

    @RNG: 01000100 01101111 00100000 01111001 01101111 01110101 00100000 01110100 01100001 01101011 01100101 00100000 01100010 01101001 01110100 01100011 01101111 01101001 01101110 00111111 Also, 1464 is the number you need. I'm equipping a bag for myself and my kids, and we want to fly together. Think of the children.
  3. frob

    Djinn ST by Kite Forge (2/21/19)

    I'll win because the system knows I have a gap in the bag. I've got multiples of standards and mid-vents when my family flies with me, but only one full vent 1.5-size kite. Any of you past winners know how to slip the RNG some cash as an incentive?
  4. frob

    More lights

    I can get the light strip down to about 100 grams by removing the waterproofing, and I can get down to 74 grams for the microcontroller, gyroscope, and bluetooth by using soldering things together rather than plugging to a breadboard. To attach it I was using 2" clear packing tape around the border, which probably adds single-digit grams. With the battery that puts me about 260 g, but I need another weekend of progress to build it out. Still to heavy for a standard rev?
  5. frob

    More lights

    Didn't get video, but the first flight attempt wasn't great. Let's just say I learned things. I talked with Mario a bit at SPI festival today, and he had some ideas. He said his lighting rig is around 30 grams, but it is much simpler. With the microcontroller and breadboard and backer and large battery and the long light strip, mine is over 300 grams and feels like a tank. I can probably drop 50-75 grams easily, but the battery will be my biggest issue. I need at least 700 milliamps on 5 volts so a USB battery works perfectly, but the things are heavy. I tried it again here at SPI, but light winds made it impossible to launch.
  6. frob

    More lights

    I've seen that type. They're neat. The whole collection of parts for me was $68, plus time for developing the code behind it. The lights were by far the most expensive part, at $36. I'm struggling with the best way to attach everything. Snapping onto spars is good. For this, I think I'm going to use some strong tape around the edge. It may leave a bit of sticky residue, but should be fine.
  7. frob

    More lights

    I've done a little with lights, and back then I thought fully programmable lights would be MUCh better. Even static lights look amazing, and color-cycling lights look cool, so responsive lights would be that much more fun. I've got some acceleration data, but the math for acceleration at an angle is tricky. There is a chance I'll make the 6-hour drive to SPI and maybe show them off. Unfortunately I'm guessing my work schedule won't turn out well, but there is a chance...
  8. I got a gift card for Christmas for some geek stuff, and thought I could turn it into a more advanced rev lighting. I figured this could be a fun project with my skill set. I've a strip of fully programmable lights (5 meters, 300 lights), an acceleration + gyro chip, a bluetooth chip so I can control it by my tablet, and a 9v battery attachment, all plugged into an Arduino board. I've spent a few hours the past two weekends getting the parts figured out and a mockup made, and I've got some simple patterns identified and programmed. As typical, videos of light shows aren't nearly as pretty as the actual light shows. I also have a "sudden stop" that flashes red for a quarter second, not shown in the video. Those are the patterns on the slowest speed, moving one pixel at a time. They can be made MUCH faster. I'm planning on attaching the patterns to acceleration forward/back and left/right to pull the lights to the side as long as the speed is increasing, then return to neutral. That should give long arc-wise turns throwing the lights to one edge, and launch/landings to have the lights bounce around. I want the circles attached to bicycle spins. And sudden stops on ground or midair will have the red flash. Any other ideas to program in to the thing before I start attaching it to a real kite?
  9. frob

    Bowtie remedies

    This. Unless you've got magic sticks which physically prevent the twist, it happens because you've pulled the trailing edge too far forward and physics pulls it the rest of the way. I struggled with it too, I took videos to ask other people since there are few quad fliers near me, and practiced it for weeks trying to understand it. When you are pulling on the bottom of your handle, you should feel a bit of tension. There comes a point if you pull a little harder that the tension quickly backs off to nothing. It is a very sharp transition, going from the kite pulling to the kite not pulling in perhaps two or three degrees of arc. That is the point where the sail is no longer capturing any air to pull it the direction you need. If you continue past that point by even a fraction of a degree, the air will push against the back, causing it to flip. The leading edge transition is much more gradual, you have many degrees of arc before you start to flip, and usually that doesn't happen unless you're at the top of the wind window or doing some other glide parallel to the ground. When you flip, the entire leading edge moves together thanks to the spars, and you can do this during an axle. For me, the remedy to bowtie was to learn the flic-flac. It is an intentional flipping of both sides, then flipping back. If you feel one side start to flip you can either immediately flip the opposite side and perform a flic-flac, or immediately flip the one side that flipped getting it back to normal.
  10. frob

    New Member. Cocoa Beach, Florida

    That's why it is useful to carry several kites in the bag, and to pay attention to actual conditions on the field. Agreeing with Riffclown above, that's one of my favorite ranges also. You know there will be adequate wind. That is 10-15 knots, which is an ideal range for many kites. I'd probably fly a mid-vent quad, but you could fly a full sail if you have strong spars and stronger line, or fly a full-vent quad, or even get an extreme vent quad if wind is always on the high end. If you prefer dual lines, precision flying would work fine, and slackline tricks would be an option at the edge of the window. In that wind range nearly every kite is an option. Also, the weather station doesn't always match conditions on the ground. Just because the weather station is getting a specific speed doesn't mean the speed is everywhere. Just because the station has gusts at that value doesn't mean everywhere has those same gusts. Also missing, the weather reports don't specify the frequency of gusts, or the turbulence of the air, and both of those are important and localized. When winds are high, unless you're on a beach and the wind is coming directly off the water you can generally find something to provide a wind shadow. Location is important. If wind is strong you might find an area ringed by trees, or buildings, or dunes / burms. You might choose to fly at a park located in a dip or small valley instead of a hilltop or terrace. Once you're actually flying, you don't need to use all the wind in the air. You might fly near the ground or fly near the edge of the window instead of the power zone. Plenty of times I've had wind increase while I'm flying, or had large gusts. If it comes up quickly, immediately fly to the edge of the wind window where the kite should escape any strong gusts. Develop your skill flying on the edges or flying near the ground (where wind is less powerful). But as for me personally, if I was planning a flying day and the forecast said 12-18 MPH, I'd be celebrating rather than cancelling.
  11. frob

    THE burr

    Looks like you've got some sanding and/or metal grinding in your future. Good snagless handles cost a few dollars extra, but they're well worth it.
  12. frob

    Christmas Roundup

    I got some 50# and 90# line. I had been saving up for a quiver of 2-3 Djinns for myself, but a broken tooth requiring a crown drained the bank balance. Even so, fresh line is good.
  13. When I'm at a regular field I use 120 foot 90#. For quad line winders I've got 15 foot, 40 foot, 50 foot, 85 foot, and 120 foot. Currently I have three winders of 120'@90# in the bag, in case some breaks and I'm flying with a friend, in addition to some dual line sets. Seconding the opinion to always buying new line, never used, either made yourself or by a reputable dealer. My family knows it, so I ended up with three new spools of line (50# and 90# LPG) under the Christmas tree. Handles are a personal thing. I would get them separate from the kite, getting a good set. There are many varieties and lengths, 13-inch is common but I prefer 15 inch, sometimes 17 inch when I'm feeling particularly lazy, because long handles mean less hand movement translates into more motion on the kite. My 15-inch set is my go-to, but I have all three of those sizes in my bag. There is a wide range of handle material, like aluminum, steel, carbon, and wood. There are various versions with metal clips or plastic clips to hold the leaders, and "snagless" varieties with caps for hollow handles or with holes drilled through, potentially with milled ends (my favorite), so there are no metal loops on the handles to snag in your bag. And that's not all! Handles come in a variety of angles, grips include fully padded nylon coatings to foam grips to rope wraps around wood, and handles come in a variety of colors.
  14. frob

    Quadline Beginner Questions

    For a well-adjusted quad line kite, flying forward and backwards should be equally easy. As mentioned back on the first page, the kite should effectively be "in neutral gear" when lines are properly adjusted. When you hold the lines up in your neutral posture, the kite should not have any drive forward or in reverse. It should float evenly, with no drive. If it takes effort for you to stop the kite or hold in a hover, lengthen the top leaders or shorten the bottom leaders. It should take a bit of effort to launch and to fly forward, but none at all to stay still. Many beginners have their top leaders far too short, or bottoms far too long. Their kites dart around quickly, and take effort to attempt to slow or stop. It makes it easy to launch, but quite difficult to control, or sometimes, makes it near-impossible to simply hover, let alone fly in reverse.
  15. @John Barresi Looks like the web HTTPS security certificate on the site has expired. People cannot post unless they hack their system clock (which only works for 3 days) or disable security settings on their browser (which is unsafe). Seeing as I do this for my day job, I know how to get around it, hence this post. ;-) In past years everybody charged for certs, often $100 or so. These days, Let's Encrypt gives out free certificates, if you want to save a few bucks.