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midibot

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midibot last won the day on October 24 2018

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About midibot

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    generalist ;)
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    Ontario
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  1. Update: a little search of this site produced a number of threads discussing the noise of early Widow versions, and whether and how to address it. Here is a thread discussing installation of a leech line on a kite which lacks it. The author of this makes specific reference in other threads to doing this on his Premier Widow as well, with success. Granted, it may be the pre-NG version, but it may prove a useful modification, not only for the sound, but possibly performance as well: Installing a Leech Line Step by Step Tutorial https://kitelife.com/forum/topic/3240-installing-a-leech-line-step-by-step-tutorial/?tab=comments#comment-21325 Hth .
  2. I believe the NG version of the Widow has no leech line. Or at least mine doesn't. (My version sewn by Level One, which is a definite upgrade over the entry level Premier version, does have one. So the sound and flight performance may be tuned.) It may be that it was at least in part a deliberate move to keep the Premier kite in the more affordable range, but that is just a guess. Personally, I prefer quieter kites for most of the places I fly, where I don't want to be too obtrusive. Some kites are just made loud from the get-go, and my old NSR is one of them . No leech line. There may be a place for them, and there are people who like the noise. Chacun à son goût. To each their own! PS: somewhere there is (or was) a thread on one of the forums discussing a retroactive addition of a leech line. So there's that possibility. For clarification, the leech line is a line, usually spectra, threaded through the trailing edge seam of the kite sail. Some kites use other methods to reduce the flutter. .
  3. Hi Seth; I had a WindDance (or two) back in the day and I remember that they were well built and flew nicely. Mine were yellow There is at least one copy of the manual floating around on the internet that I am aware of and, as you may be aware, it appears that the kite has been out of production for well nigh a couple of decades. In the circumstances, as you state you are an actual owner, I would not hesitate to provide you with a link to the site or send you a copy from it. In the form I have it the order of the pages are somewhat jumbled but readable and no doubt will be useful. Over 35 pages! I will PM you accordingly. .
  4. Went for the UL version of the Badass. I find that I now prefer lower wind days in general, or the times I want to fly seem lower wind days, not sure which way the causality works in my case. Have just had it out a few times but absolutely enjoying it. So much so that I would also consider a STD. At the moment the standard portion of my kite bag is quite well represented, however, so no burning desire succumbed to. Yet. My impression is that the Reloaded is a somewhat quicker little machine that one might want more to fly on shorter lines and/or smaller spaces. See also the response to your 3/4 kite question. There are some cool youtube videos of both kites out there, which may help you decide what appeals more to you. Was also considering the Reloaded, but there was appeal to me of a slower, more methodical mode of flying that I can see unfolding in front of these old eyes. .
  5. I am somewhat Old School, but to me a 'full size' stunt kite might be in the eight foot range, although there is plenty of variation a few inches either side of that, mostly less. Not sure it is a defined term, but to me a three quarter would be in the 6 to possibly approaching 7 foot range. Examples: Benson Matchbox (~76"), possibly Prism Fanatic (~72"), Flexifoil Psycho (~78"), and more modern kite: Level One Reloaded (specs say 77"). OP and others will have other examples. That said, there are six to seven footers that fly 'big' and vice-versa. .
  6. I believe it was just something like 'MLD Kite Line Bag' or some such. I also have some single zipped pouches in the series. Brief search brought up this reference, but no longer available if that is true: http://www.windpowersports.com/accessories/bags/mld-line-bag.php
  7. Some of my line bags. Old MLD bag (may no longer be made), Mtn Equipment (or REI etc) fanny pack, and a Stanley soft toolbag or equivalent from the hardware store. Pic attached.
  8. Ahh, but your query gave rise to my interest so thanks for that. Here's a pic of my spring. Kite was new for my wife last Christmas but cannot vouch for how old it is model-wise. It may have been old stock at my vendor...? Kite is labelled as a 'Rev 1.5 Classic' fwiw -- Reflex as can be seen. Hope this works:
  9. Got it. But the spring has been (re)attached - or reinforced - with heat shrink, yes? And it looks like you have some on the spring itself. Or some kind of tubing. (The newish one I am examining as we speak is bare wire, held on with some kind of tape-like stuff labelled 'Reflex'.) .
  10. Neat. So, heat shrink and trimmed vinyl end cap? .
  11. Picked up a set of the Matrix 75' x 90# when I recently acquired a Badass. With kite purchase, there was a nice little discount which made it a no brainer. Have used the lines maybe 1/2 dozen times on various kites and so far so good. While the orange seemed bright to my eyes on the winder, I have found that in flight there are so many other things going on that I don't really notice it unless I expressly turn my mind to it. Functionally, they are invisible, which is kinda the way I want it. Clearly visible to the eye on the ground, however (mostly grass for me). A good thing. Rather like the winder, too, which I am using along with Freilein straps. Most of my other line is older and goes way back, including some ancient BlueLine which blends in to the sky even more I think. .
  12. One distinct advantage of c-clips is that they can be stuck on an assembled kite. No need in those cases to disassemble the leading edges and pull them out of the LE sleeves, which can be tricky particularly with tight connectors or some bridle attachment setups. But if you are taking it apart for replacing a broken rod, then that opens it up a bit. And, yes, they can look a little chunky. Prism used to use the glue backed heatshrink method, perhaps still does. I have, too, particularly if trying to match the other side on a Prism or other kite. Some care needs to be taken with the heat as mentioned, and it does tend to wander slightly and creep a bit as it shrinks so need to monitor that in the installation process. I have used that also for reinforcing lower spreaders at the “T”, particularly when I have repaired a split rod where I felt the crack could be mended with glue. Some kites use it there routinely and it can look good, too, if done neatly (Steve Tapp Enigma). I was just looking at the stoppers used on Lam’s Silver Fox 2.2 and it uses a clear vinyl tubing that looks kinda like the stuff used for air lines on aquariums. Neatly sliced, in the right size, it looks great for stoppers. Possibly ca’d. (A bit reminiscent of the tubing used in a heavier version as connectors in early 90s kites!) I repaired a Flexifoil Psycho a while back that used the appropriate size of vinyl end cap (“VEC”) on the original, sliced in approx 1/4 inch donuts. Dab of CA did the trick. I had the rod out anyways in that case but I have also applied the VEC solution to an assembled kite by cutting them a little longer and slicing it lengthwise for whapping it in there with that bit of glue. Another option I have seen is one or more rubber “O-rings” that you can get in the plumbing dept of the hardware store. Get it on the small side for the particular rod, and a bit of good glue. Not too obtrusive. (JoE Talon). Those are some thoughts. .
  13. Nirvana. A classic. It is big(ger), slower, and very capable. Arm movements more middle-ish perhaps. Wide range of models to suit your preferences in wind. Several variants over the years, but if you can get ahold of one to fly (assuming you haven’t already) it might work for you. I, too, came back to kiting in the last couple of years and that was a kite that I had heard of and decided to try. Quite precise, yet capable of teaching me some moves without too many moments of "what the heck just happened there". Not overly sensitive or jumpy. There is a place for those… but it is sometimes nice to just Slow. It. All. Down. Anyways, that is a thought. Ymmv. .
  14. Good stuff. My experience as well. The kite is so unstable without the tail that it is tricky. With time one gets better at developing the feel of when to apply pressure: when pointed in the direction you want, pull a bit and it tends to go straight(er) in that direction. Release, and it's natural tendency is to spin. Rinse, repeat To get a feel of the transition, it may help to try a length of light surveyor's tape or lengths of fat yarn tied onto the base of the spine in lieu of the factory tail - start with say half the standard tail length (my factory one is dual piece). Substitute progressively shorter bits or just tear off hunks. And wind conditions are a factor as you say, particularly at first. Lighter end of the wind range to start. Practice. Practice. Practice. It is all fun! .
  15. The ITW Hata is ready to fly, with a basic line of (something like) 300 feet of 20# or so on mine. I was flying it today, and it is a steady, easy to fly single liner with the velcro'd tail attached, and quite a bit less stable sans tail, as a fighter should be. It is easy to fly from the hand with the tail as one might expect, but a second person would be useful for a launch in fighter mode at least in the early stages. I used the netting of a soccer goal as my assistant, but have also used a sideline bench, my kite bag or even a hole in the ground for the spine tip such as today (the field had been aerated recently). I used some 9# cotton line from India that worked pretty well, and is lighter than the line that comes with. The standard line should be fun enough for a while if one wanted to keep the order simple. Quite a hoot, really, and the $20 price tag is great value for money in fun. . .
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