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midibot last won the day on October 24 2018

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  1. I believe it was just something like 'MLD Kite Line Bag' or some such. I also have some single zipped pouches in the series. Brief search brought up this reference, but no longer available if that is true: http://www.windpowersports.com/accessories/bags/mld-line-bag.php
  2. Some of my line bags. Old MLD bag (may no longer be made), Mtn Equipment (or REI etc) fanny pack, and a Stanley soft toolbag or equivalent from the hardware store. Pic attached.
  3. Ahh, but your query gave rise to my interest so thanks for that. Here's a pic of my spring. Kite was new for my wife last Christmas but cannot vouch for how old it is model-wise. It may have been old stock at my vendor...? Kite is labelled as a 'Rev 1.5 Classic' fwiw -- Reflex as can be seen. Hope this works:
  4. Got it. But the spring has been (re)attached - or reinforced - with heat shrink, yes? And it looks like you have some on the spring itself. Or some kind of tubing. (The newish one I am examining as we speak is bare wire, held on with some kind of tape-like stuff labelled 'Reflex'.) .
  5. Neat. So, heat shrink and trimmed vinyl end cap? .
  6. Picked up a set of the Matrix 75' x 90# when I recently acquired a Badass. With kite purchase, there was a nice little discount which made it a no brainer. Have used the lines maybe 1/2 dozen times on various kites and so far so good. While the orange seemed bright to my eyes on the winder, I have found that in flight there are so many other things going on that I don't really notice it unless I expressly turn my mind to it. Functionally, they are invisible, which is kinda the way I want it. Clearly visible to the eye on the ground, however (mostly grass for me). A good thing. Rather like the winder, too, which I am using along with Freilein straps. Most of my other line is older and goes way back, including some ancient BlueLine which blends in to the sky even more I think. .
  7. One distinct advantage of c-clips is that they can be stuck on an assembled kite. No need in those cases to disassemble the leading edges and pull them out of the LE sleeves, which can be tricky particularly with tight connectors or some bridle attachment setups. But if you are taking it apart for replacing a broken rod, then that opens it up a bit. And, yes, they can look a little chunky. Prism used to use the glue backed heatshrink method, perhaps still does. I have, too, particularly if trying to match the other side on a Prism or other kite. Some care needs to be taken with the heat as mentioned, and it does tend to wander slightly and creep a bit as it shrinks so need to monitor that in the installation process. I have used that also for reinforcing lower spreaders at the “T”, particularly when I have repaired a split rod where I felt the crack could be mended with glue. Some kites use it there routinely and it can look good, too, if done neatly (Steve Tapp Enigma). I was just looking at the stoppers used on Lam’s Silver Fox 2.2 and it uses a clear vinyl tubing that looks kinda like the stuff used for air lines on aquariums. Neatly sliced, in the right size, it looks great for stoppers. Possibly ca’d. (A bit reminiscent of the tubing used in a heavier version as connectors in early 90s kites!) I repaired a Flexifoil Psycho a while back that used the appropriate size of vinyl end cap (“VEC”) on the original, sliced in approx 1/4 inch donuts. Dab of CA did the trick. I had the rod out anyways in that case but I have also applied the VEC solution to an assembled kite by cutting them a little longer and slicing it lengthwise for whapping it in there with that bit of glue. Another option I have seen is one or more rubber “O-rings” that you can get in the plumbing dept of the hardware store. Get it on the small side for the particular rod, and a bit of good glue. Not too obtrusive. (JoE Talon). Those are some thoughts. .
  8. Nirvana. A classic. It is big(ger), slower, and very capable. Arm movements more middle-ish perhaps. Wide range of models to suit your preferences in wind. Several variants over the years, but if you can get ahold of one to fly (assuming you haven’t already) it might work for you. I, too, came back to kiting in the last couple of years and that was a kite that I had heard of and decided to try. Quite precise, yet capable of teaching me some moves without too many moments of "what the heck just happened there". Not overly sensitive or jumpy. There is a place for those… but it is sometimes nice to just Slow. It. All. Down. Anyways, that is a thought. Ymmv. .
  9. Good stuff. My experience as well. The kite is so unstable without the tail that it is tricky. With time one gets better at developing the feel of when to apply pressure: when pointed in the direction you want, pull a bit and it tends to go straight(er) in that direction. Release, and it's natural tendency is to spin. Rinse, repeat To get a feel of the transition, it may help to try a length of light surveyor's tape or lengths of fat yarn tied onto the base of the spine in lieu of the factory tail - start with say half the standard tail length (my factory one is dual piece). Substitute progressively shorter bits or just tear off hunks. And wind conditions are a factor as you say, particularly at first. Lighter end of the wind range to start. Practice. Practice. Practice. It is all fun! .
  10. The ITW Hata is ready to fly, with a basic line of (something like) 300 feet of 20# or so on mine. I was flying it today, and it is a steady, easy to fly single liner with the velcro'd tail attached, and quite a bit less stable sans tail, as a fighter should be. It is easy to fly from the hand with the tail as one might expect, but a second person would be useful for a launch in fighter mode at least in the early stages. I used the netting of a soccer goal as my assistant, but have also used a sideline bench, my kite bag or even a hole in the ground for the spine tip such as today (the field had been aerated recently). I used some 9# cotton line from India that worked pretty well, and is lighter than the line that comes with. The standard line should be fun enough for a while if one wanted to keep the order simple. Quite a hoot, really, and the $20 price tag is great value for money in fun. . .
  11. Yes, I see that now. First in, following all four categories! ☝️ Also followed Wayne's first ad. Be interesting to see if following a category results in email notifications of new listings (checkboxed, so we'll see). .
  12. Watching this with interest. If not already available, it would be useful to be able to 'follow' postings of ads (including new postings if feasible).
  13. I have no hands on experience with kite aerial photography, but I recall looking around at the old Charles Benton site back in the day for fun. I think it has been up and down a bit of late for technical reasons, but it is a wealth of KAP oriented information if you have not checked it out yet. There is also a discussion forum, and you can search the site as well for others’ experience in a particular aspect. Thought this may be of use also to others interested in the subject. The url: http://kap.ced.berkeley.edu/kaptoc.html
  14. Parafoil single liner. With the dimensions you supply, the area is 56”x36”/144= 14 sq ft, so a good size and may well be a strong puller in higher wind. Premier still makes them although not sure about that size. I have the spec sheet for a Sutton Flowform 16 foil that calls for 125# line, so you are in the ballpark. (Into the Wind suggests 90# for a 7.5 sq ft version of its parafoil, and 150# for its flowform 15. Premier’s 7.5 --> 90#.) The line to use will depend of course on pull, but 120# does not seem excessive, and may or may not be enough, depending what wind you try it in. A tail may help stabilise if need be -- and/or, possibly consider “line laundry”. That colour scheme is…kinda retro Could be a lot of fun! The single line experts will chime in with more I expect. .
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