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Everything posted by Fireliner

  1. Felt really good in my novice hands but had a row of tree behind me that although they had lost their leaves made the already gusty inland wind more turbulent. A bit more responsive as you say than my first build (due to lighter weight?). Looking forward to test it in clean winds.
  2. Very easy add on for kites like OSKUSA that have holes in stead of mesh as LE Venting. Lights are 19 grammes a piece and very inexpensive. Mounted: In action:
  3. Ready for test flight. Traditional endcaps with shockcord on LE. Need some daylight, none after work..
  4. With my limited skills i could agree that skills would matter most. I am still hopeful that I would be able to extend my lower end capability with approximately 90+grammes shaved of my first build. The biggest advantage of lighter weight rods would be increased flex in low wind conditions? with weight savings as a nice bonus? Of course, i like the feel of my vented kite over the full sail but sometimes the wind is too weak for me to keep both my heavy diy full sail and my vented freilein aloft.(without running) Being grounded is no fun😉 Lightest/flexiest spars i have are the freilein Chrystal T2. Also have T3 and skyshark p2x and p4x(travel length-40cm sections)
  5. Did a basted bottom seam folded two times. Weight of kite with bridle currently at 189 grammes(Chrystal T2 spars) kite incl bridle w.o. Spars at 114 g including approx 10-15cm excess 3mm shock cord. Need to add knot cover for bungee at lower corners. Still contemplating the non bungee LE end caps. Would need to get some lighter weight(softer) spars. P90? Px1?
  6. Started construction of new kite. Have been using lighter material icarex and also used rip stop in the leading edge with Dacron reinforcements. The overlap between sail halves and trailing edge i am going to try just using 3M vhb tape and ironing except some seams in the higher stress parts. Thinking about not using shock cord for LE End caps (like Los Hermanos detox), t- connector. And lighter weight bridle line. I have not yet started the lower spar connection points(bungee/shock cord) Last time i used Dacron reinforcement triangles with PE "washers" and 3mm shockcord and a lighter fabric cover over the knots. It works but is quite bulky and heavy? Shock cord is available in smaller sizes but are they (2,5 mm Prym) strong enough?
  7. Exploring the dark with lights. https://youtu.be/Li-7Z8Y8EtE For the wind noise fans 😉 (different angle on the red lights):
  8. Novice builder (and pilot) ;)
  9. Seems like some kind of clean (odorless) paraffin. I can understand the not needing to use this if the Prym tape is better than the 3M tape. Thank you for sharing.
  10. Thinking about the parafin vs silicone, is it because that we want/expect the thread to stick(more stable seam) better after evaporation of parafin that is the theory here? (Curious)
  11. Age of tape might be impacting results, but it is also extremely thin(no carrier) compared to the other basting tapes i have tested. I would look for the Prym tape when shopping for nonstick needles. Thank you for the tip about paraffin. Although paraffin in my world has very many forms. What quality specifically are you using?
  12. I tested sewing (80 cm triple zigzag) with the 3M vhb 9460pc transfer tape and I had absolutely no buildup of glue on the needle. Seems that we have different experience with this product.
  13. Ok, good to know. Maybe the 3m is better for "no sewing" as described in the article.
  14. Tested the kite in too much wind today. 5-6m/s gusting to 9-10m/s (ca10-gusting to20mph) behaved very well in the lulls at guestimated 7-8mph. Felt much more stable but overpowered on 30ft lines. This time I also used stiffer LE (6 sections of skyshark p2x(camo) even though I think I could have been on p4x in the gusts I think I would test some more but I feel I am on the right track with correcting LE venting and correction of the ballooning sail.
  15. Have you tried the 3m transfer tape? 3m vhb 9460pc It is referred to in the "kite building with adhesive" article by Dick Curran.
  16. Tried increasing angle between thread and needle but no conclusion yet. Went extreme like the angle in your video riffclown but think something in-between would suit my machine better.
  17. Interesting and I think I would like to reduce the risk eith expensive icarex. I have bought the 3m 9640?! Transfer tape but not tried it yet. The basting tape from a European(metropolis drachen) vendor is leaving lots of residue and sticks easily to the needle. Better with generous silicone added to thread.
  18. 8ish mph during test. Using this kite for experiments. Before proper build. I think it weighs about 270 grammes and LE is 240cm vertical spars 80cm. Need to wait for wind to test..
  19. Since the fabric from the traction kite was stretched from the beginning I noticed that the camber of that sail was pretty heavy and also the leech was "hook-shaped". I went ahead and taped up two vertical folds on each sail halves. This made the kite behave better, but still not good enough imo. Frame while testing was Chrystal T2(freilein) and the kite had lift but also behaved jerky(like before), sail filling and kite taking off forwards. Needed a lot of brake. Some of this would possible be frame related(too much flex) but I think it might also be related to the smallish amount of leading edge venting. So tonight I have increased the leading edge venting by adding(70-80pst) holes between the holes in my leading edge "screen". I hope this would improve both the kite acting jerky and at the same time make it less prone to flipping while reversing / heavy braking.
  20. Possible things to try to remedie the problem with glue buildup /thread sticking while sewing through adhesives. Adding more liquid silicone to thread. (Mimic/improve bonding) Some needles also have some sort of coating to prevent glue sticking(i have not tested it) Coating/lubing needle(not tested) I am also curious wether the tread angle into the needle would matter. Seeing your setup riffclown, the angle between thread and needle is extreme, compared to my older viking/husqvarna machines. May be that this angle is beneficial to reduce thread sticking? Like the thread is kept away from the glob of glue on the needle. On my machine the thread nearly touches the glue glob.. This needs to be tested.
  21. It flies, but I think it would be better with some venting and use in stronger winds. ✂️
  22. Fabric from trashed traction kite. Too heavy, but functional. Lessons learned😄
  23. Thank you for your input. Today I almost got grounded due to too much wind (25+mph) flying my freilein WR 3 vtd. So now i need to think about the other end of the spectrum as well. Your mesh designs are looking better and better;) Bought a trio of freilein WR 3s today (UL,STD,and the HVTD) complete sets with handles and lines for 150dollars per set, before tax(25percent) and shipping. should be like 70 percent off.. (end of season sale) Looking for parts but ended up with the complete builds..
  24. Wich of the strips?😉 I do understand that all the strips on this kind of technique builds you line up the fabric in the individual strips in the direction of least stretch lenghtwise. Although they vary in placement/orientation in the finished sail. I am going to try to make a simple "full sail" (two pieces of icarex, plus mesh LE and so on..) and I am thinking that lining up the gridpattern (least stretch) with the lower outline would be best. At the same time I would think that there would be possibility for lots of variations in sail performance by merely playing around with fabric orientation(strech). Not to say I am cabable of understanding this yet. I must say your many creations are impressive riffclown.
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