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Paul LaMasters

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Paul LaMasters last won the day on September 3

Paul LaMasters had the most liked content!

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About Paul LaMasters

  • Rank
    Kite Romantic
  • Birthday 01/06/1956

Profile Information

  • Favorite Kite(s)
    diamond framed custom Zen, SUL & indoor quads,
  • Flying Since
    hardcore since '93 on quads, kites in general since the mid-70s
  • Location
    Germantown, MD (Washington DC metro area)
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    design, illustration/photography, graphics, printing and naturally kites (mostly quads). My son is big martial artist & kite flyer, the wife and I enjoy watching Golf, NFL but cheer for different participants. I'm also a huge NBA/Bulls fan since my college room-mate (NIU/'79) is their ticket director
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  1. If I wanted to "land of something", .... I find easier to go passed it first and then slowly pull the kite back towards that stationary objective, with the goal of a standing-stop on top of that something. Reaching forward with the handles suddenly or stepping towards your objective kills most (or all) of the pressure on the sail, therefore it is still/quiet when you want it to be, balanced on the wing tip, say on top of a lighting fixture's pole.
  2. AND for that very reason, take some colored electrical vinyl tape and affix it to one of your handles,... for me it's Red = right so even if you threw the handles down in front of you, by a simple quick visual examination, you'd know which one goes where when picked up again.
  3. most round holes are "hot cut" (sealing the edges with the iron's heating element to prevent fraying over time)
  4. could try slowly neatly thread wrapping to a chosen diameter to make a stopper in place and some 5 minute epoxy (a light coating!) to seal it off and provide shock-impact durability. I've used this method to build up a stopper that is permanent on single lined gliders/static kites. Enough glue to hold a set thread-locked fitting position and make a rigid structure to butt against, but not so much adhesive you have to break the tube to get it off again if necessary! Could be decorative too, if you're so inclined, I've seen names spelled out in English and Japanese kanji thread wrapping onto a painted white tube (Harold Ames, his hand-dyed and painted Edo got him a trip to Japan for ten days, YEAH that good!)
  5. drop all four flying line loops (from the kite end of the string) onto a well-placed stake or a carbiner affixed to a fence post. When you pull back the handles tightly, do all align perfectly? sight down the tops first, pulled tightly back towards your eye (like shooting an arrow), slowly give slack and the longer line will show itself. Adjust knots, or leaders, or flying lines, maybe switch positions of the flying lines. whatever you have to do! These handles when pulled back tight need to align perfectly. longer leaders (on top 200% to 300% on average) will tame the beast like a saddle and heal spurs to a wild pony in the paddock! Call flying smiles kites in NC and ask for some "hi-test bridle line" in a hundred pound strength from Cath/Eliot. In a couple of days you'll have an envelope in the mail to make the change. This change will make the kite WAIT for you to tell it what you want next ~ instead of you reactivating to what it wants to do all by itself affected by the wind.
  6. imagine you are landing on a big trash can, inverted, up-right, and each wing tip, balanced up there every time. When the trash can is removed and an empty pop can placed there instead, can you still do your same stuff on that smaller surface? You can ONLY fly between my outstretched arms and the ground,... and only inverted too. Slowly backing up and returning to the ground, now double that distance inverted (backing up) until you can go all the way to the top of the wind window, stopping or accelerating backwards along a straight line path. (this will take many hours to make smooth and effortless appearing to spectators). Secret? Add some feet into the equation, it makes everything smoother, just set the handle angle and walk it inverted UP. When you make your 180 degree turn to return back to center (from flying out to the edges) did you go forward flight and a down turn, or stop fully, THEN reversing up that bottom wing instead? Practice an inch above the ground to learn how to turn a quad and NOT drop your altitude in the process of doing so. Someday you may be that bottom person on the line. You'll appreciate them not forcing you lower and lower by turning in their own lane position(s). Practice quarter turns with no altitude changes, s-l-o-w will force these skills upon you. Eventually it will become second nature, turning the bottom wing up instead of driving the top wing down. These are skills that translate to flying with other people in a group setting, at least from my limited team experience. ~ Own your hover, get comfortable an inch above the ground inverted (it's like the guy balanced on a high-wire, with that long pole. The ends of the pole are BELOW the wire, so his balance is much more easily attained. Well the revolution styled quads are the same way. They are much more balanced inverted because that long pole (leading edge) is below the center of the kite.). When you have mastery over location (positioning, orientation and hovering) then nothing is beyond your reach. You don't need anyone with you to practice these aspects of flight. it sure pushes you along faster though if you were boxed-in w/team-mates on both sides of you.
  7. Wow! each way? 3 hours straight is an overnighter to me, you need some more friends to share with or face a terrible drive home at the end of a fantastic day of flying. I know personally, I spend ten times as much on travel as I do on the kites themselves, have for decades too. Just dropped several gees on WSIKF, two days of travel each way, hotels, condo, airfare, car, meals and misc items relating to fun. Worth every penny and I'm grateful to the bride for allowing us to partake, ... saved for two years to make the math work!
  8. a few have mastered the technique of 2@once but Steve has 10 thousand more hours than anyone else,... and it shows!
  9. Charles (stoney) Stonestreet flew in a park (Dory) in Richmond Virginia for years, so often that a club formed, so often the competitions were held for all categories, so often that folks came from hours away just to hang with this guy and the locals. You can be the difference maker in your town too! Just so you know, Dory Park was the "final examine day" for no wind flying, under an airport's flight path, almost never any stinking' wind and hundred percent humidity to boot, even the scorer's tent?,..... air-conditioned! You share enough times and they will bring the kids along, who will soon show-you-up on your own stuff!
  10. Remember, after installation you have to "tune the French bridle" to match your existing handle settings (on the leaders). This way both (or all) of your kites will have the same settings regardless of which bridle is implemented. Place the kite inverted and keep altering the bridle's leader lengths (tops or bottoms) until you get the reverse feel that works for you. I run really long leaders on the top, all the way across/between the gap of attachment points 'cause I don't use sleeving on the flying lines. My top bridle leader is cut-down to about 2 inches away from the "V" in length and my bottom leaders are as long as possible. Take the time to really dial it in for YOUR settings and enjoy the differences in flight dynamics.
  11. Ashes is the same Icarex sail material, only the leading edge sleeving is changed to 1.5 ounce nylon instead of 3.9 ounce Dacron. My bridle on the Ashes was the same 100# hi-test as the B-Series, although I have replaced it since acquisition
  12. Bazzer didn't sew it for you maybe, but he certainly made SULs B-Pros on almost every model I ever acquired from him, from Zen to full vent 1.5s, at least 3 full sails and a couple of mid-vented models too, plus his masterpiece patriotic old glories (2) and a Sizzle Flame (1). I don't get the bridle, but sure wanted the SUL leading edge sleeve. After you know what you're doing,... who "drag launches" the leading edge sideways (inverted across the ground)? That is what a cartwheel does for you. Why add weight there unless it has to be done thru framing as a personal choice? Ah, but my first coach Jeff Burka builds his kites with thick Dacron LE sleeve and screening 'cause he wants that weight there, even his indoor Rev2 sized wings. (which he flies Up-Wind outside!) Nope, everybody has got their own thing and very few of us are willing to change, just so we blend-in.
  13. It is a full sail, ... why modify/frame beyond it's intended wind range with thicker tubes? The rods listed above are completely appropriate to this most excellent wing. I use both Skyshark and Rev's tubes in mine, but I think right now (for WSIKF) it is a travel frame ~SS P-100 four pieces with two P-300s at the junction of the down-spars and top end-caps on the verticals. Verts' are diamonds travel-framed. Mine is that same color scheme as yours above in the ad. Black Race is a winner too, slap 'em in and spank it hard!!!
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