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Paul LaMasters

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Everything posted by Paul LaMasters

  1. "Quad-effect " if you can only go forward and stall, the two bottom strings are no longer necessary. properly tuned, the reverse flight should come almost effortlessly, in low wind or indoors you will be walking backwards to make this flight pattern. dont be locked in position, you move and so does the kite. If you wait for wind you can sit down and enjoy, in reality the kite is overpowered my lessons start with the kite inverted, how to cartwheel back to right side up, then people can operated independently w/o me asisting
  2. I own an XX, but it is a very early prototype. I also own a bunch of others models, various brands and sail configurations and live to compare kites. first problem? Severe oversteer, you release the steering wheel and the vehicle goes wildly off the road instantly,... I hate that! If you want to turn in the center of the sail, this model is fun, if you want wingtip turns keep away. secondly, it is way too heavy for a low wind kite, it flies but graceful like a cattle truck,... heyitprobably survives your learning crashes though third, none of the framing members in my possession
  3. I have objected to the premise of whump, from the beginning. I want everything tight all the time, the need to preload the slack out of a bridle seems counter productive to me, instant response is the joy of quad When sharing,.... i snap at people doing "forward / down turns" back to the center of the wind window,... no instead you "back that bottom wing UP" (or put my crap down and fly some else's OPK). You can't please everyone, Reverse to go Forward,.... it's a common team call for us ( in btwn is a LE up side slide connecting the two). a Whumpless bridle allows a single acti
  4. Interesting post here!,..... stock bridle pieces are assembled as "little loop is passed thru big loop and then big loop pulled back thru the little one, doing this action more than once "tightens and lessens the hinging action built it" ( =more responsive/twitchy) Sung all the slack out and you have to really pull and yank on it to effect this! (it forms a Prussik Knot if you cared and did it three times, not just once as pictured in the original photos. I have also owned several Revolutions with the two colored bridle choice applied to them, Rods AREN'T stock for a q
  5. No sleeving, not for decades.... use 50, 75, 90, 100 and 175 pound lines in all the variable length sizes. cannot untie, only shorten (add more knots), use a longer loop for adjustment room as it becomes necessary sleeving on the kite end can get tangled when slack lining, and it certainly can when flying one handed on that end too! build the end point/stopper knot in the single strand, then form the loop, keeping this insert centered perfectly NEVER broken at the knots because I don't use any except the "figure of eight". Placement takes practice as this knot tightens in
  6. Please, as has been stated previously, those "factory numbers" should NOT interest you further, they are not relevant except as a marketing/sales tool. If you are new-is pilot their "spread" is too wide and not reachable by you (yet!) If you have thousands of hours under your belt, those same numbers are too restrictive to represent that skill level, you could fly it indoors or underwater if you had to, for 4 minutes of a demo anyway!!!! The factory would not have offered the kite framed as you have it currently, except by special request and also at a subsequent/additional cost. Y
  7. "develop your own feel" it takes time, be patient, enjoy the journey of exploration comparisons are great fun if you have a partner, just change one variable and see how it feels "better or worse:" WHY? A kite club starts by you showing up to the same spot repeatedly and sharing your passion with spectators
  8. All the leading edges are the same, so you are only comparing the venting portion of flight dynamics. It will "bend less" in the middle as the wind speed increases if you use the most/more vented sail the wind speed doesn't matter, they're all framed the same, only the feel in you hand matters,.. do you want it surging and twitchy (fun-flailing, alone for example?) or silky smooth and graceful (add vents until satisfied). You can enjoy an over-powered kite more easily, flying on the edges and low and slow across the power zone your next frame is the Skyshark CXL 150, stiffer f
  9. Riff, you should ride up with Conklin, next time we go to West Covington Park, ride in the back of his new Subaru with a mask, and hoodie reversed to cover your face! Come up and fly with WoWsters, you know some of us already!
  10. figure of eight knot and a set of forceps..... the knot is too be placed at a very specific point,( it will not slide only tighten, which is four thicknesses in the middle of the knot), How can it slide around if it tightens on both directions towards the center of itself? I should shoot some video, but the knot looks like an "8" only laying on it's side (before it is tightened), ONE half of that eight has to be pushed OVER the top of the entire assembly of string and all of the ensuing slack must be PULLED OUT in the opposite direction. Holding the strands in place with the forceps allo
  11. I am still afraid for myself and family, and have withdrawn from the weekend, you guys go wale away in my behalf, thinking of you all already tearin' it up!
  12. the pull or stopper knot shown in the picture was placed onto the existing loop rather than being built INTO the loop before forming,.... insert that thing on the single strand!
  13. you can get anything you desire,... IF you're patient, financially motivated or important lives are truly in jeopardy! You are building a line (set) from a single strand, placing the stopper knot into that strand BEFORE forming the attachment loop. The pig-tail is that part that loop attaches to, if will never be anywhere except on that bridle or the leaders for handles. The sleeving is another tangle point on the bridle when throwing acres or slack, heck I have even tangled the handle ends too. Slack where you can walk into it, not just catch a shirt button or wrist-watch, rea
  14. Skybond for me, pre-tied sets from Flying Smiles' Cath Shook, no sleeving, extended length attachment loops with stopper knots built it. PERFECT from the card winder, flown a couple of hours and the reversed top and bottom positions on the handles.
  15. no wind is like indoors, you MUST use your feet,... think the "up & over" technique Plus, you must use the field walking around as well as that crazy slack lining. How much room dictates how long of a line set to apply, then just match a kite to pull those strings around, I use 15', 30', 50, 60'(50#, 100#) 100's (50# and 100#), 120's (50, 100, 170#) Fly indoor, SUL, UL, standard, mid-vent, full vent, ultra vent, mega-vent and thong-butt bikini vented
  16. Skybond is judged superior on the east coast, against ALL challengers, more slippery, tighter diameter, longer lasting, slimmer and yet stronger too, color is just a bonus, I am not sponsored except by my wife (ha!)
  17. someday, the wind will be a deterrent to your fun! Now? I prefer no wind (after decades of mid-atlantic weather, indoor conditions with an unlimited ceiling,..... for 5 months!), True dead calm, early morning sunrises, usually on long lines too, I just need good footing to move around safely backwards and laterally, so lately I've been flying in closed parking lots at the soccerplex nearby my home on AUAs, 50 pound, (60, 100 & 120') skybond
  18. almost everything becomes personal taste after learning the basics, we both have easily visual identifiable styles for movements of bodies and kites
  19. dugard uses his initials, Shook a compass rose, Bazzer and Rev each use a screen printing process w/logos, you'll come up with something equally unique for your own "brand"
  20. will be interesting to see how this aspect effects flight dynamics, gliding for example, love the experimenting sir!
  21. Anyone got any "Response 12" sky shark tubes, these giveaways are 19s so you can actually use 'em in shook-mesh weather, I do! NOTE: if you "cut 'em down",... to fit 1.5 shapes you cut the fat part and leave the skinny end whole. If you don't want the end-caps to rattle, you'll wrap the end of the spar with vinyl electrical tape )a couple of wraps is sufficient) I've done this for literally decades and love these tubes!
  22. Great giveaway John, these tubes are down spars only for SUL or standard sailed kites, PERFECT option easy to compare switching back and forth. Someone is gonna inherit some irreplaceable items, discontinued decades ago.... RARE and DESIREABLE the taper forces more weight forward resulting in a better glide when leading edge down doing field recovery envy to the winner, PM me if you want to unload, trade, sell, donate to a worthy cause? -plm
  23. I went to shaped wooden pistol grips, anatomically fitted to each hand, mike van meers custom 100 bucks, easy to "rock/balance" on one finger!
  24. we all "steal" from each other, those that are best at most things spend the most time working on it or around others doing so. I'm a good flyer in crap conditions 'cause we have 'em more other than most people. (the weather forecast for instance? Take that offered wind reading and divide it by THREE for the local area) I know good technique in construction 'cause I'm surrounded by impressive builders, even though it's too much time commitment for me, doesn't mean my bride isn't willing to pay someone to do it my way if requested. Fly with the masters and see what you can incorp
  25. concrete set-up for me is kinda' not very helpful, even my indoor kites have magic sticks
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