Jump to content
KiteLife Forum

DavidB

Members
  • Posts

    17
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Posts posted by DavidB

  1. Basically that is correct, except to recognize that the measurements are of the bridle line off of the kite. That is, the measurements include the sections that tie around the rods. Also The O to I you show is only to the end of the loop that larks heads to the pig tail. Here is a rough sketch of the bridle and dimensions.

    Good luck tiering a new bridle. Take your time and measure carefully.

    2020-12-24_112941.jpg

    • Thanks 1
  2. I measured my hydra bridle and all of the dimensions agree with the figure you posted. The dimension of the loop on the ULE pigtail is missing – it is 68mm. The figure can be confusing if you are new to this. I will try to add some details – I hope it helps.

    The bridle consists of three sections. One that is tied to the spine at the center T and then continue to each of the tow points. The other two are identical, one for each side of the kite, and go between the two leading edge connectors. These sections are actually each in two pieces with a pig tail at the upper leading edge connector to allow you to adjust for wind conditions.

    Look at the point where the three bridle legs come together. You will see an overhand knot and a larks head knot next to each other. The overhand knot is on the center T bridle section and the larks head is in the section that goes between the two leading edge connectors.

    The center T part is on very long piece (almost 3.5m). It consists of a loop at the center that is 38mm long (this is the part that connects to the spine). There is a knot that is 584mm from the tip of the loop on each side. This is the knot where the three legs come together. There is another knot at the end of each side where you connect the flying lines – the tow point. The exact length to the tow point isn’t critical, but it is critical that it is the same on both sides.

    Now look at the upper leading edge (ULE) connector. You will see a pigtail looped around the connector with two knots in it. These are the knots at 83mm and 105mm. The loop is 68mm (the missing dimension). Again, the knots are measured from the tip of the loop.

    The other part of the section that goes between the two leading edge connectors has a knot at one end and a loop at the other end. The size of this loop doesn’t matter – this is the loop that uses a larks head to connect to the pig tail. The mark at 584mm is the center of the larks head knot that connects this line to the center T connection.

    I hope this helps and that I didn’t add more confusion.

    • Like 1
  3. For parking, take the last right just before the shoreline entrance. The is a dog park on the left with a parking lot. Go all the way to the end of the lot and take the path up to the flying field. The signs say parking for dog park only, but.....

    I have seen single line kites caught in the power lines when people let go of the line. It would be hard to get a multi line up there since they tend to fall out of the sky when the lines are dropped.


    Sent from my iPad using KiteLife mobile app

  4. On 10/5/2020 at 8:03 PM, Sardonycus said:

    What's the best method for staking a kite in very hard dirt? I'm using tent pegs, but the ground where I fly is like concrete and the pegs usually just fall over. 

    The solution I have found at shoreline is to find where a blade of grass is (was?) growing and the push/twist your stake in along the grass blade. The ground is actually a bit softer there. I know this sounds weird, but it works most of the time. Don't even bother trying in the areas that are bare of and growth.

    If you are willing to wait a few weeks we will probably get some rain which softens the field and staking gets easier until the spring.🙂

     

    I fly dual lines at Shoreline once or twice a week and will look for you next time I am there.

     

  5. Mamba UL will fly well in 3 and even down to two or slightly less with arm movements or a little foot work. It’s really not comparable to a pro dancer SUL but is way more trick capable. If your trying to fly in less than 2 get a pro dancer. For 2 and above up to 7 or 8 the Mamba is a way better choice. I always switch out when wind hits 6 or so with my moonie mamba. Usually don’t fly PD SUL above 4 or 5 but I have too many kites to fly and not enough time.
     

    I have to agree. The PDSUL will fly in less wind, but once it gets up to 4 or 5 mph I switch to the Mamba UL. The PD will fly in next to no wind, but if I want to do any tricks the Mamba is a better choice for me.


    Sent from my iPad using KiteLife mobile app
    • Like 1
  6. That is interesting. In specific conditions mine is fun for carving turns in the sky. Wouldn't know about the tricks though.
     The upper connector stops that were glued on came loose and had to be re glued. I might not have gotten the stops in the correct spot, and the front spreader might be forward or back of the correct location. I mean they are pretty even with each other, just maybe forward or back of the correct position. I don't have any way to tell.
     Apparently there is a tow point loop adjustments also, in addition to the front bridle knots.
     
     

    I haven’t seen any of the issues you mention with my Widow NG. Shortly after I got my I broke a tube and had Jon T. Send me the framing plan for the kite. This should help you make sure you put the stop in the right place and allow you to check all the other frame and bridle dimensions.
    Widow_NG_layout.JPG


    Sent from my iPad using KiteLife mobile app
  7. I love my vented Mamba. Flies similar to the standard, so if you like the Mamba (as I recall you got one last year) this would be a good option. Ken makes them with removable windows that cover part of the vent so you can adjust to the wind speed. I have had no problem flying mine in winds over 20 mph with ease.


    Sent from my iPad using KiteLife mobile app

  8. I would add my recommendation for the Widow NG. Very capable and will take you quite a while to outgrow it. Starts to pull pretty hard past 13-15 mph - that’s when I put it away. Should be able to get it from kites and fun things in a few days (not Amazon fast, but less than a week.)
    Consider coming to the Berkeley Kite Festival at the end of July.
    Check out the Bat Area Sports Kite League at BASKL.org


    Sent from my iPad using KiteLife mobile app

    • Like 1
  9. Thanks all, and thanks JB and Breezin for the affirmation. Before I saw your two posts, I was starting to feel bad about asking for advice and then deciding to ignore it, since I had decided in the mean time to use the super glue method. I've done it before on a small what looked more like a cut than a tear. Didn't think it would work on larger tears until I found some posts on some kiteboarding forums where they used that method too. Yes, this tear is really clean, so I think it will work. Worst case, it comes apart and I'm back to where I am now. Then I will try the tape. Oh, and the super glue method has one more advantage in that I can get it fixed before an event this weekend, whereas I probably wouldn't be able to acquire repair tape in time. 

    I have some tape that I will bring tomorrow in case the super glue doesn’t work.


    Sent from my iPad using KiteLife mobile app
×
×
  • Create New...