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About SegelFlieger

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  • Favorite Kite(s)
    My own builds, rev inspired.
  • Flying Since
  • Location
    Spokane WA
  • Country
    United States
  • Interests
    Kite Flying of course! And Kite Building. Photography. Music; both listening and composing (and performing a long while ago now).
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  1. Here is a blog I posted a while back regarding dynamic testing of spars along with weights and deflection information:
  2. Abrasion is a common problem with the Rev LE Vertical Tabs caused by the vertical spars or end-caps rubbing against the Dacron tabs and eventually coming in direct contact with the LE spar. The B-Pro series kites have a piece of Kevlar sewn internally to this tab which prevents this problem. But what do you do if your kite suffers damage and does not have this nice pro feature? Introducing the Kevlar Band-Aid... It is a simple idea and is probably self-explanatory but I thought I would share how I repaired the damage to my kite in case it might help you. Here is the damage that occurred to my kite: To repair this damage I made a “Kevlar Band-Aid” from Dacron Tape, woven Kevlar, and a strong 3M adhesive tape. Here is the design followed by a picture of the Band-Aid: Note that the adhesive tape that I used is very strong and you only get one chance to apply it to anything, hence the Kevlar being slightly askew. Avoid touching it with your fingers. Apply the Band-Aid to the damaged area and clamp it for several hours. After the Band-Aid has been applied you will probably need to recreate the hole for the vertical end-cap shock-cord. I use a soldering iron or wood burning tool to do this... Applied Band-Aid and recreated hole Here is the completed repair: Your vertical spars probably have suffered some damage if this has happened to you. I labeled the damaged ends of my spars as “VB” (Vertical Bottom) to insure that I use these spars only for the verticals and place the worn ends at the bottom. From the picture it appears that there is a crack in one of the spars but this seems to be a crack in the “clear coat” that was applied to the spars. It would certainly be a good idea to have spares should a worn spar fail while you are in the field. I hope you find this useful. S.F.
  3. The information from these posts inspired me with ideas to create my own Nail Board. I shared my experience recently in the form of an "instructional" blog as I felt it was too lengthy to post as a reply to this topic. If you are interested in reading it, here is the link: I hope you find it useful. SF
  4. I was inspired by the information shared in recent posts regarding the existence of something called a "Nail Board" to help tie accurate "Knot Systems" such as bridles, leader lines for handles and potentially other applications. I decided that what I am about to share is too lengthy for a forum post so I have posted this as a blog instead. I hope you find it useful. SF Nail Board Instructions for Knot Tying A Nail Board consists of a “flat board” with physical markers defining the spacing between knots tied in a line for a specific purpose. “Bridles” and “Leader Lines for Handles” are good examples but there may be other line applications that a Nail Board can be used for. Summary: A Nail Board serves two purposes that provide an advantage to using a tape measure or rule for tying lines with knots that require precise and symmetric spacing: 1. The location of each knot can be consistently and accurately marked. 2. The line material can be pulled under light tension when making the marks using the physical markers. This allows the spacing of the knots to remain proportional when stretched during wind-loaded flying conditions. What a Nail Board does not do for you: You can’t tie single or multiple loops from the dimensions on the board; the dimensions on the board are “final” dimensions of the “knot system” you are tying. Prior to tying looped knots you must determine the length of line that is required to tie the loops, or other knots, to fit the final dimensions of the physical markers on the Nail Board. Details: Knot Tying vs Knot Marking. The process of tying the knots is separate from the marking of their location. Each type of line material has a specific diameter and each knot and type of knot takes a specific length of line to tie. This must be determined beforehand. The actual line required to tie a knot system is defined as: Line spacing defined between the knots + “length to tie” for all knots in the system. Calculating the length of your line to tie a loop knot (“Length to Tie”): Mark a 12” length of the line with which you will be tying a knot. Call this “D1” Note: in the picture I used blue tape as a mark only for the purpose of illustration. I use a white “cloth marking pencil” to make my marks which does not show up well in a photograph. Tape is not a good material to use for marks since it can slip on the line while tying. Tie the specific knot that you will be tying. I have used an overhand knot for this example to form a loop. The marks that you previously made should be behind the knot by ~1”. The marks should match each other below the knot. Make sure that the knot is “Well Formed”. All lays are parallel with each other as the knot is formed; no crossing between the lays. Pull the knot taught with force after tying; I use my forceps in the top of the loop and pull very hard on the opposite end. Now measure the distance from your marks to the top of the loop. Call it “D2” Length to Tie = D1 – 2 x D2 . this will be the “Length to Tie” for this line and this loop knot. The length to tie a loop per knot for my material is 1 1/8” believe it or knot (100# bridle line) Here is an example: In this example there are two loops. The total length of the knot system is 3” (2 ¼” + ¾”). The length of line required without knot consideration is 6”. There are two knots in this loop system, one at the bottom and one towards the top, which will take 1 1/8” each for my line material. The total length of line to tie both knots in this system is 6” + 1 1/8” + 1 1/8” = 8 1/4”. For a single knot (not a loop) in a line the “Length to Tie” is simply: Length to Tie = D1 –D2 after you have performed the same experiment with a single knot in one line. How to use the “Length to Tie” The “Length to Tie” must be added to the line dimensions when you are tying your knots. After they are tied, they should fit back on the Nail Board and be under slight tension. Conclusion: Following these procedures and using a Nail Board should result in very accurate knot placement for your projects. When tying more than one identical knot systems, they will end up being perfectly symmetric. Materials and tools required to make "my" board are: #18 x 3/4” wire brads. 36” x 5 ½ x 3/4” Pine Board (premium grade, flat, actual measured dimensions shown) Drill press with depth stop capability (not required but adds precision and protects the drill bit). 3/64” drill bit (available for Dremel tools or other sources) Long Straight edge rule 4 ft (for drawing straight lines on the wood) Tape measure for measurements of marker placements.
  5. Thanks riffclown You have inspired me to think about your process for tying knots and designing my own jig. I will let you all know how it turns out... I will also share a picture of my jig when I am successful. I am very accurate with tying and spacing my knots under tension using a rule and marking the knot tying points but it is very tedious. And matching identical knot assemblies such as a bridle or leader requires some adjustments afterwards if there were slight errors. Perhaps the jig can make my process more consistent.
  6. Does anyone have tips for how to tie precisely spaced knots for the pigtails besides just using a rule? I have heard something about a "nail board" or some sort of fixture to tie the knots.
  7. I just discovered this place today. Several elementary schools here in the Spokane WA area were built with a similar design that included an "elements protected area" perhaps for recess activities when the weather was not all that great. The area is protected from wind on 3 sides and on top. The width of the area is ~ 25-30' and the height matches the adjacent gym and slopes off, at least double my height. I plan to enjoy flying my iflight there and then begin learning how to fly an indoor quad. Segel
  8. Hello Jeromeo and welcome to KiteLife! So you are wanting to learn about quadline kites... this is the right place to get some great advice and help. Are you learning to fly a quad now or looking for one to purchase for the first time? Enjoy exploring this website, Segel
  9. Welcome to KiteLife! There are many resources here. How is your kiting experience in Lancashire and what brought you to KiteLife? What kinds of kites do you like to fly? Best Winds, Segel
  10. Hello UrbanFly, Welcome to KiteLife! Where do you hail from? And by your username do you fly in Urban environments frequently? Regards, Segel
  11. That is very impressive to fly a dual line kite with one hand! Imagine flying one in the other hand at the same time, I bet you could do it. Regards, SF
  12. How about the "bird-cry" sound your kite makes occasionally in just the right wind conditions?
  13. 2 lbs of tension won't be enough to set your lines, you probably already know that. 2 lbs is enough to equalize your lines though once they have been set or used for a while. I should have also mentioned that step 6 (Double Check Line Length) could be performed first in order to check your lines to see if they need to be adjusted. SF
  14. "Pulling" back to the subject of line equalization... I have a very precise way to make my own line-sets. There are parts of my procedure that can also apply to "line equalization". I will summarize them here. Materials needed: ~4 feet of 1/8" shock cord 1" square of scrap Dacron or other padding material. forceps, or suitable clamp 5 tent stakes. I make and equalize my lines under tension. It is important to provide equal tension to each line. You will find that you become frustrated if you lay out four 120' lines (rough cut), grab all of them in your hand and pull some tension, cut them all to the same length; trying the procedure a second time you will find some of your lines are longer or shorter by 1/4 inch or more. I designed a Tensioning Tool and method that prevents this problem from happening and it is really quite a simple design (even if the explanation seems long). This is not a "field fix" and it does take some time... but if you find a day with No Wind and want to do something kite-related, this is something both rewarding and practical that you can do to get that "kite fix" on those days. Step 1. Make a Tensioning Tool. Create a set of Tensioning Shock Cords. I use 1/8” shock cord. Cut four 10" lengths and seal the ends by melting them with a lighter. Tie a knot at both ends. Sew a "mark" stitch close to one end (I use red thread). Tie another mark stitch exactly 3 inches away from the first. (note, I used a more accurate method of suspending each piece of shock cord with a 2 lb weight and then defining my "mark" threads, however the shock cord is probably uniform in "stretch per length" for these short lengths. For this purpose you can probably get away with just tying the "mark" knots with the cord relaxed). Make 4 staggered tethering lines out of a material that wont stretch, I used bridle line. Tie a loop in both ends of these with enough length to tie larks head knots. Tie each of these to the Tensioning Shock Cords with a larks head knot. You will also need a clamp, I use forceps, and also a small piece of Dacron or other material to protect the lines when you clamp them (explained later). This picture should help clarify what I just described: Picture of Tools Step 2. Setup one end of your lines (Fixed End) Lay out your lines and place one of the tent stakes in the ground, deep, so it wont pull out. Loop all four ends of your line set onto this one stake. This is the end that you will NOT be adjusting. The "Fixed End". Step 3. Setup the Adjustment End of your lines At the other end of your lines, tie a larks head knot from your lines onto each Tensioning Tool. One line at a time, pull the tether with a tent stake inserted at the end until the marks on the Tensioning Tool are exactly 4" apart (stretched now and under tension). Insert the tent stake in the ground (deep) so that it does not move and verify that the marks are still 4" apart. Do this for each line. You will also see why the tether lengths need to be different to allow each stake to be put in the ground while keeping the lines close together. Step 4. Equalize the lines With each line under equal tension as described in Step 3, clamp all four lines close to the Adjustment End with the Tensioning Tool. Make sure to use padded protection between the lines and your clamp so that you do not damage your lines. This is where you use the piece of 1" square Dacron. Once the lines are clamped you may now remove the four tent stakes at the adjustment end. Untie the sleeving from each line and push it towards the clamp that holds your four lines. Pull the "Adjustment Ends" of all four of the lines together with very little tension and either cut the ends to a new uniform length or mark them with a sharpie where the new equalization point should be. (note, cutting the lines also requires having to melt the ends to keep them from fraying. Just mark the lines if you do not feel comfortable melting your line ends). Step 5. Finish your lines. Remove the clamp. Move your sleeves back to the equalized mark (if you marked your lines), or so that a equal amount of line is exposed beyond your sleeves (1/8th inch or so if you cut your lines). Re-tie your end loop at the Adjustment End. Insure that the End Loop Lengths are exactly the same length between all four lines (knot to end of loop) and that the amount of line exposed beyond the sleeve is also exactly the same for each line. Step 6. Double Check (optional) With all four lines still secured at the Fixed End and the clamp removed, reattach all four lines to the Tensioning Tool cords and pull each line under tension until the red thread marks are 4 inches apart. All the lines should now be the same length. Hopefully my experience is helpful but it does require some work. SF
  15. I should have included this information in my post... Two chain washers weigh 1.7g (.06 oz). My new kite weighs 230g (8.1 oz) -> rev Mid-vent equiv with two-wrap rev rods; shock cords are not trimmed yet. The addition of two chain washers will only increase the weight of the the kite defined above by .7% I like the field-fix idea . Considering a tear as I experienced, a bottle cap washer with two holes could allow one to continue to fly; it would support the vertical displacement of the shock cord loop against the remaining Dacron and there would still be plenty of meat left on the horizontal portion of the LE end for the required shock cord tension to the rod end. Add a pocket knife or multi-tool to the things you should bring along with you for emergencies. I plan to. Make sure the tool has the equivalent of an awl or pointed knife tip to make the holes. Thanks Mark. SF
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