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Modifying Older Hadzicki designs to use T Connectors

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Before20200520_110804.jpg      After 20200520_113741.jpg

Disclaimer, the following instruction will void any warranty on your kite and may require further modification of spars or bungees to meet your personal specifications or preferences. The changes WILL tighten the vertical tension significantly and those factors must be considered before beginning.

Converting a standard Rev configuration to "T" connectors for the verticals.

This instruction applies to only kites with standard framing and not the 5/16" or Reflex frames. This can also apply to Older Freilein, Hengda and Revs prior to the changes in their kite configurations.

Parts needed
 - 2 "T" Connectors. The Freilein part on the left or The Kite Forge item on the right.20200520_110138.jpg
 - Heavy Duty Scissors or shears. You will be cutting through a few layers of Dacron which can dull regular sewing type scissors.
 - A small Screwdriver, popsicle stick or similar type item to guide the spar back into the sleeve after cutting it.20200520_110539.jpg

*** IMPORTANT NOTE!!! First assemble the kite and note the overall taughtnees of the sail. The conversion to "T" connector add between 3/4" and 1" to the height of the kite and either the bungees at the bottom of the sail may need to be loosened OR the spars shortened to accommodate the change. Sails built with the "T" connector in mind have slight different dimensions or have taken this difference into account already. Be prepared that this change will void any manufacturers warranty and may required modification of the spars to support the overall modification.

1 - Remove the frame from the kite. (The center spar of the LE can remain in the kite.)
2 - Remove the bridle, caps, and bungees from the two Vertical attachment points.20200520_111138.jpg
3 - Place a single strip of masking tape over the center of the vertical attachment point. This will be the guide on where to cut.20200520_111230.jpg
4 - Flatten the portion of the LE sleeve as indicated in the picture. You will only be cutting the back portion of the sleeve. The front of the kite should not be cut or altered.20200520_111348.jpg
5 - Cut carefully at the sides of the masking tape as shown. Heat melt the cuts to strengthen if possible.Double check you are only cutting the back of the LE Sleeve and not the entire sleeve.
Repeat Steps 2-5 for the other vertical attachment point.20200520_111545.jpg
6 - Insert the first Spar into the end of the sleeve and place the "T" Connector in place. Use the screwdriver or popsicle stick to guide the spar back into the center section of the LE Sleeve.20200520_113100.jpg
7 - Repeat Step 6 for the other Attachment point.
8 - Pass the bridle loop through the original bungee hole and larks head it onto the T Connector. You can hot cut a new hole higher if desired.20200520_113212.jpg
9 - Reassemble the kite and determine if the vertical spars will need to be cut or if the bungees can just be loosened a bit. This is a personal choice.

(I personally prefer to have as little of the spar protruding from the bottom of the kite as possible.)

In my example here I will be shortening the spar by a full inch.20200520_113745.jpg


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Cool mod. Curious, how tight are these T connectors? Does the LE spar slide through them fairly easily? They would seem to need to for assembly/disassembly since you don't have a large opening like on dual line kites for the connectors to move as the spars are inserted/removed. 

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4 minutes ago, dragonfish said:

Cool mod. Curious, how tight are these T connectors? Does the LE spar slide through them fairly easily? They would seem to need to for assembly/disassembly since you don't have a large opening like on dual line kites for the connectors to move as the spars are inserted/removed. 

They have a pretty good motion as long as you don't have the vertical spars in. The Freilein ones are a bit larger at the junction. Not sure I'd throw a 3 or 4 wrap in but those stick in the Freilein caps anyway.

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Lot of work to strip away the best gliding design feature, why take this modification on?  Don't you turn the elastic knots and washer under the sail to create a 3D shaped airfoil over the leading edge sleeve,........  curious, unless you want a killer Falling Leaf trick it seems counterproductive at least to a no wind flailer 

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I think this is very cool. I think magic sticks could also come under the "lot of work for a little..". Good on you for applying a great design feature retrospectively to a common kite.

The LE T on my Djinn is one of my favorite innovations. Cleans up the kite framework considerably.

Might give this one a crack myself!

Sent from my SM-G970F using KiteLife mobile app

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8 minutes ago, Cot51stState said:

I ordered extra t-connectors and end caps when I ordered my Djinn and installed them on my B-Pro. The sail already had leading edge tabs and wear strips so I just had to cover the remaining bungie cord to complete the effect. Looks like you were braver than I when it came to cutting the slits in the back of the leading edge. I placed a dowel in there to insure I wasn't cutting through to the front. 

Did you have to cut your spars after you made the change?


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3 hours ago, Paul LaMasters said:

Doubtful a consumer will part with black race rods, particularly the ones w/o a green label but good luck and I'll take any spares you don't require personally 

I'd have to agree. Of all the frame Rev put out the original Black Race is probably the most versatile. I keep one handy to do my initial bridle tests and test fits for most of the kites I build. I keep a diamonds frame for when there is just no wind and I still want to get a pic to complete the build. I also don't cut Rev spars. I only cut what I buy bulk which is the Skyshark.


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I've started going back to some of my earlier Diamonds builds that are still in my bag and I'm doing the "T" conversion on them.

Only exceptions are my Stacks. I find it trickier to tune the stacks when "T" connectors are in use.

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Not having used that particular part, If weight is the major issue for you, I'd agree with at least the cross part of the "T".

Shortening the upright portion IMO might be a balance of how much you can remove before you have the Spars start popping out under flailing torque. Personally I'd probably leave that portion alone. Just my opinion and that's based on a part I have not used. -->yet.

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