Jump to content
KiteLife Forum

Open Source Kites


NateyLB
 Share

Recommended Posts

Normally, a trip to Kinko’s would get you nice full size prints for a few bucks.  Current circumstances might make that trip less desirable.  Adobe Illustrator, maybe Acrobat, and all page layout programs (like InDesign and Quark) have an option to print “tiled pages” which is what you got for the Quartz, I believe.  The free program Inkscape may have that ability, too, but I’m not sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Probably not necessary, but might make a few things easier if the program doesn't add margins. That would give you a continuous sheet in one of the two directions. However, if the programs quietly add extra printing margins it won't help anything.

When I have printed patterns in the past, I print as a multi-page with registration marks (the little markers on the edge of where the printable area is supposed to be).  Then I tape all the pages together into a giant sheet using the registration marks to overlap/the paper to the correct locations.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Many of the plans are “tiled” which means you print out a bunch of letter sized sheets with crop marks.  Line up the marks, tape together, and you have a full size plan.  Otherwise, your local office center (ie Kinkos) will print you full size plans for a few dollars.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just print at 100% at a print shop should be like 20-30 bucks total with a tube to out your plans in. Use a thin corrugated cardboard for templates. Something you don’t have to cut through twice. Cut your templates out with extra paper on the seams and tape to cardboard and cut along the line. Wish someone told me these little things when I started my first build. Don’t waste time or effort hot cutting anything. Icarex and Mylar doesn’t need it, for nylon and Dacron just burn the edges with a lighter or run it against a soldering iron.  Pay attention to your machine tension. Always test it on 6 inches of fabric before you sew your sail. Make sure the fabric is folded over double and has seams stick so you can dial in the tension before you sew your sail. If your sewing through icarex, nylon, and Dacron  at the same time make the same layers, including seam stick and test. You’re probably going to need to adjust your bobbin tension for Dacron. Make sure you have a lot of needles you will be changing them every time your machine makes a different noise, seam stick gunks up the needle and you will miss stitches. Check your bobbin before every seam, you run out halfway through and you gotta go either rip out the whole seam of try and start it from where you ran out of bobbin. Have fun building, take your time and don’t get frustrated it’s a relaxing hobby. And when you tie bridles. Give it 7 adjustment points by the spine and by the top APA and set it to the middle then do measurements on the bridle. You’ll thank yourself at the flying field. Oh and tie off your stitches and burn them as you work so you don’t forget at the end. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...