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A quick newbie question about my new Prism Ozone

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Hello all,

I recently moved to Boulder, CO., and last week I bought my first dual line kite: a Beetle 2100. Naturally I became instantly addicted to sport kiting, and immediately became frustrated by the stop/go/dead winds of this area.

What to do? Oh- I know, I'll go buy myself a Prism Ozone! (Wide wind range, great looks, durable, and room to grow into it.)

So I get the Ozone home yesterday, and using the included instructions, begin to assemble it. It took about 10 seconds before I realized that the included instruction card was not current, as it refers to "elastic" wing tensioners, which it definitely does not have. So, after about 15 minutes of trying to figure out how to get the wings tensioned on my own, I managed to find a section of the Prism website that discusses how to tie off the tensioners. Not a big deal, but moderately annoying.

So I get the Ozone assembled, attach 50# 60' Spectra lines, and go out to the park behind my house and give it a quick check out flight. The wind was essentially dead- but I did manage to get it in the air, and play with it for a bit.

Here's my question: There is a T-fitting along the spine through which the bottom spreader passes, and the bridle attaches. It's clear to me that there are two distinct settings for the bridle that can be made here, by selecting one of 2 knots to use as the attachment point.

I assume one of these knots is used for "radical" flight, and the other is used for "forgiving" flight, yet I can't find documentation anywhere that mentions it. I've even tried downloading the Ozone manual from the Prism website, but it's the same field card that I received with the kit.

I assume I can just make the change the next time I fly, and see for myself- but I'd like to understand the mechanics behind it beforehand, of possible.

It appears to me that using the knot *furthest* from the bridle would result in an increased angle of attack, which I assume would make the kite turn more aggressively? The corollary being that using the knot closet to the bridle would result in a decreased angle of attack, which would slow the kite down, and allow it to fly in lighter winds.

Am I on the right track?

Thanks in advance for any advice that you may be able to lend!

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Yes, you are correct about the adjustment, but it makes a difference more in the "light wind vs. normal wind" sense than the "radical vs. forgiving" sense.

As far as the tensioners go, many of us don't use the o-ring tensioners anyway, as they tend to rot and break after a season or two. I personally like the string-type tensioners, because I can control how much tension and bow to give to the leading edge.

It sounds like you're well off to a good selection of kites. Hopefully you'll be able to find other fliers in your area to get some one-on-one assistance. If no-one here is in your area, go over to http://gwtw-kites.com/forum/ and post a "Who is near me" kind of question on that Forum also. (Just register with the same username and password to make it easy on yourself.) Many of us frequent all of the kite forums, so don't be too surprised if you see a familiar name there, also.

Oh - Welcome to the addiction. :)

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OK, so who wants to talk me through replacing a leading edge on my Ozone?


1) Loosen and remove the tensioner from that wing.

2) You'll need to separate the 2 halves of the leading edge rods. There is a ferrule between them. The lower half of the L.E. will come down, through the wing tip, until you can slip the connector off the top end of the rod.

3) If there is a stop or clip glued to the rod above the lower connector, you must loosen or remove it. If it is a piece of heat-shrink tubing, you'll probably need to carefully cut it off with a knife. Whatever method was used to make your kite, you must be able to slide the connector up, as the rod slides down. If the connector seems too tight to slide, spray the joint area with some Windex (or similar) window cleaner, or dribble a couple of drops of rubbing alcohol in the joint. Neither one will harm the kitesail in any way.

4) Before you remove the bridle from the end of the rod, pay attention to how it is attached. Is it above or below the connector? Is the knot in the inside or outside of the L.E. rod (i.e. which way does the knot point)?

Look at the connection on the opposite wing, as they are probably similar, but opposites.

5) Remove the old rod. It may be possible to leave the connector on the very end of the rod, and after freeing the upper end of the lower rod, slip the whole thing up and out, through the connector slot in the leading edge.

6) If you need to replace the lower L.E. rod, remove the tip from the old rod. Use a hot air gun, or a hair dryer and heat the tip until it will slide off. Don't use an open flame unless you really want to burn the tip off the rod - they burn pretty well.

7) Cut your replacement rod to the same length as the old rod. If it's a tapered rod, remove material from the small end. The large end must remain unchanged, to fit the ferrule.

8) If it's the upper L.E. rod that needs replaced, that rod must also slide down until you can slip the connector off. Again, remove or loosen any stop or clip that prevents the connector from moving up as you slide the rod down. Also, use Windex or rubbing alcohol to get the connector to slide.

9) Usually the ferrule is glued to the upper L.E. rod. If you're changing that rod, you'll need to remove the ferrule to get it onto the new rod. btw, if it's been superglued in place, you can use some fingernail polish remover to dissolve the superglue. It takes some time, and possibly multiple applications to get the superglue to dissolve, but it will work. I try to presume it's held on with hot glue, so I tend to use the hot air gun on all connectors, first thing. Removing superglue is tough work!

10) Re-install the ferrule into/onto the new rod, making sure it is inserted only about 1/2 way into/onto the new rod. The lower rod needs to be able to slip into/onto the other half, so don't cheat yourself in either direction.

11) Now, reverse what you did to take it apart, and put it all back together.

Hope that helps. :)

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One other quick idea: I've heard that superglue (= crazy glue, CA glue. . .) is vulnerable to shock loadings. Haven't done this to a ferrule myself, but if it's CA-glued, it might work to rap the ferrule sharply. I'd stick the broken stick on end on an unyielding surface, and try to hammer the ferrule in with something of appropriate size and weight. Offhand, I'd think a serving spoon might work.

There's also some CA-glue debonder made and sold (even my local Dollarama dollar store now carries some!). I don't know whether or not it will destroy a ferrule, but the answer may be findable with a search at the gwtw forum. Or Dorsal may pipe up with more experienced info. . .

Norm in Toronto

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Thank you so much for the lengthy reply.

It turns out there were heat shrink stoppers glued onto the rods, but they *just* fit through the sleeve, and I managed to work the rods out without having to cut or remove anything.

I was amazed to find that the rods themselves hadn't broken, but rather the metal ferrule had sheared, almost right in the middle. (A testament to the strength of graphite, I suppose!)

I called the local shop, and they said they had a replacement rod, but I'd need to put my own ferrule on it, and replace the stopper. Not really wanting to throw aftermarket parts in a kite with less than 20 minutes of airtime on it, I decided to order the replacement part from Prism. Probably won't make a lick of difference, but psychologically it does. :)

Now, the best part is, I am on vacation next week, and I don't think the replacement will be arriving in time, so it looks like I might be buying another stunter that will compliment my Ozone, and get me in the air while I wait. :)

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Wow, I don't I've ever heard of the ferrule shearing in half like that - but I have sheared off the rod just at the edge of the ferrule.

Oh well, it's got to happen sometime!

Yeah, it's pretty intense. I should take a picture of it and post it. It looks like it was torn apart with a pair of pliers!

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I have seen external ferrules shear / snap in the middle. This can happen if the rods have a gap between them in the ferrule. Be sure the rods are seated all the wall when assembling.

Ahhhh! Great point! I hadn't considered that it might have been a cause, but it makes perfect sense.

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