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- Craig Rodgerson
- Peter C. Hugger Editor
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- Jam Session Turbo
- Dihedral Active
- Midi Tuning
Jam Session Turbo
Hi Jim, Back in november while putting a active bridle together for the jam, i received and email from Jean Yves Seyler asking if it was better than a turbo crossed bridle.
Anyways, i sent him an email yesterday and he sent me the dimensions for it as follows.
Crossed turbo bridle
|| \ || \ Mesurements in cm || \ ||======+ || 46,5 | \ Total : 8 meters of bridle(A.C). || | \ 54 || 31 | \ _______|__/ \ /\ \______ \ 44 / \ 25,5 53 \ \ / \|| \_____\ ==+===+================\+\ <-30->|| \
Hope that helps,
Pierre Gregoire Montreal, Quebec, Canada
ps: I haven't tried this bridle yet, but I think i'll give it try.
I´ve no turbo bridle for you but may be you want to try an active bridle: http://www.franken1....rido/kites.html then go to "team stuff" and voila - there you´ll find the dimensions for an active bridle that works very well on the Jam Session.
I want to try the dihedral active bridle. However, how to determine the distance of the Cross Activator from the tow point? In the example, they choose 9cm, how does this figure come out?
I guessed it.
In truth, it won't make a great deal of difference if you have an Activator 7cm or 11cm from the tow point as long as the Activator is proportionally longer to span the further distance between the bridle legs as you move it away from the tow point and vice versa.
I looked at the bridle and thought the Activator should go about *there*. I measured the distance between the legs at that point and made an Activator of the right length to span the gap, pulling the legs in just a little. A good start is to use an Activator of exactly the right length to span the gap. By the time you've tied knots in the end, you'll have shortened it enough to have some effect.
There is a subtle difference between the positions of the Activator close or near to the tow point, but over small distances, the effect is generally negligible. In other words, you probably won't notice the difference between small variations, so pick something that looks good and it probably won't be too far off.
Although changes in the Activators can have a profound effect on the flying style of the kite, they rarely have the same impact as significant changes in the primary bridle. Get that wrong and the kite probably won't fly. Get an Activator the wrong length and it'll probably still fly but just feel weird.
Hope that helps.
It occurred to me tonight while flying my Midi that I really don't know how or if to "tune" the trick line. [...]
[...] My kite is about a year old and the trick line goes from one nock, through a small loop sewn in the inside edge of the wingtip, through the tail end of the spine, to the other wingtip in the same fashion as the other end. The trick line is in two pieces, with surplus line to allow a stop knot to be tied in one piece and larkshead in the other. It appears that this arrangement allows the tension of the trick line to be adjusted and also serves to maintain some tension on the wingtips, as there are no provisions for bungees.
My kite came without instructions of any kind and was damaged badly shortly after I bought it (a long story and the subject of an earlier post) which necessitated complete disassembly. Since then, I've just been making it up as I go. I have it set now with slight tension and Iike how it flies, although I have no way of knowing if it flies the way its supposed to. I have noted that the sail sort of "hikes up" on the leading edges creating small "billows" at each of the spreader cut-outs. Is this the "nature of the beast", or is something amiss? Any other tips on how to get the most out of this kite would be most appreciated! Many Thanks!
Just hauled out my '98 Midi. I know that there are a few differences in the trick line in the versions I've seen; in fact I also have one without any cheater (it came that way). To make sure we're talking about the same thing, I'll describe my setup here. Fwiw, mine's framed in .2100.
On the kite I'm looking at now, the white cheater is attached at each end by larkshead to a grey knotted loop about 10 inches long -- I'll call it the tensioning loop. The tensioning loop has an overhand knot at the end, to which the white trickline is larksheaded (the trick line has approx 5" loops at each end enabling the larkshead).
OK. The tensioning loop has a second knot about 2 1/2 (two and a half)" above the end knot. I believe that the correct way to set this up is to have the loop end of the tensioning loop fed through the loop sewn in the wingtip, as you have described, and hooked onto the nock. The other end of the tensioning loop is then doubled back onto the nock, attaching it at that second knot, leaving the ~2 1/2 inch trailing bit with trickline attached. Once this is repeated at both wingtips, the trickline should be a little taught, but not too much. Without the standoffs in, the leading edge will be swept back somewhat, as the fit is tight. With the standoffs in, upward sweep is also induced.
As in the case of Prism kites, the second knot seems to stay on the nock better by dividing the loop rather than just pulling the whole knot over, if you know what I mean. Otherwise, on a tip drag or violent manoeuvre the knot may be more inclined to pop off, also resulting in that "billows" you describe so appropriately.
The other thing to note is the leech line -- if it's a little loose you might get that shameful trailing edge flatulence that we all dread. The Matheson ™ quick fix (aside from retying) is to just twist the nock a turn or two or three with the leechline on until the desired tension is obtained without pucker of the trailing edge. Either that or Beano.
Hope that this helps. If it misses the point, let us know and we'll have at it again if we can.
Nice kite, btw. Works for me.