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Mini leaders (extend the life of your Rev leaders)


Wayne Dowler
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Hopefully this will help explain the process.

Interesting....may have to try it this way. I usually just use the screw from the anchor and larkshead to it.attachicon.gif2013-08-09 20.53.08.jpg

Hey Scott, You really don't need to put a lark's head, around that screw. Just put the loop over the head of the screw, snug the screw down (not too tight), and slide the black rubber tip back into place. I'll assume that you threaded the leader through the "black rubber tip", before you put it over the head of the screw............. Right ?

ps........ I like SparkieRob's idea, about using the drywall screw (smoooooooth anchor point)

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I read the stories on these getting cut here...but in a year of heavy flying....They are still cooking with no need for the extra screw to find. I did make a set with an allen head bolt and the same drywall anchor...it had a smooth shank about 3/8" of an inch down.

My caps are loose....didnt feel comfortable without the extra meat under the screw.

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I read the stories on these getting cut here...but in a year of heavy flying....They are still cooking with no need for the extra screw to find. I did make a set with an allen head bolt and the same drywall anchor...it had a smooth shank about 3/8" of an inch down.

My caps are loose....didnt feel comfortable without the extra meat under the screw.

Yep, that's the ticket.............I've got some of those (allen head) too......Hadn't thought of that.... :ani_giveup:

But still...........it would be hard for the loop to come off the head of the screw, with the stock "black rubber cap", in place.......

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These are the prototypes. The real ones will have a bit more distance between the end of the handle and the hole. I plan to put a short piece of heat shrink over that area to bridge between the transition from the handle to the insert to prevent snagging. All you do is remove the loop and rubber end and clean up the burrs from the loop and the end of the handle (I use a drill). Then use some JB Weld to secure the insert in place.

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Thanks, Nick. I'm tweaking some dimensions to see if I can squeeze a couple more sets out of a 36" aluminum rod, to make it a little better economically. Then once I'm no longer worried about being furloughed, I will get a batch made and start testing. I'm hoping to get the break-even at somewhere around $10 a set so that maybe I could sell a few if folks are interested.

I wasn't planning on putting them on the top, because I've never snagged on the top loop. I snag all the time on the bottom.

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Thanks, Nick. I'm tweaking some dimensions to see if I can squeeze a couple more sets out of a 36" aluminum rod, to make it a little better economically. Then once I'm no longer worried about being furloughed, I will get a batch made and start testing. I'm hoping to get the break-even at somewhere around $10 a set so that maybe I could sell a few if folks are interested.

I wasn't planning on putting them on the top, because I've never snagged on the top loop. I snag all the time on the bottom.

I've never snagged, top or bottom, but I suppose that's because I did the other re-mode, a long time ago. Your work looks really good. The only reason I ask about the tops, is purely for aesthetic reasons. I'm sure, there will be lots of people that "simply" want, the top and bottom of their handles, to look alike........... Maybe not ? :gathering: Just thinking out-loud !!!

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Thanks, Nick. I'm tweaking some dimensions to see if I can squeeze a couple more sets out of a 36" aluminum rod, to make it a little better economically. Then once I'm no longer worried about being furloughed, I will get a batch made and start testing. I'm hoping to get the break-even at somewhere around $10 a set so that maybe I could sell a few if folks are interested.

I wasn't planning on putting them on the top, because I've never snagged on the top loop. I snag all the time on the bottom.

I've never snagged, top or bottom, but I suppose that's because I did the other re-mode, a long time ago. Your work looks really good. The only reason I ask about the tops, is purely for aesthetic reasons. I'm sure, there will be lots of people that "simply" want, the top and bottom of their handles, to look alike........... Maybe not ? :gathering: Just thinking out-loud !!!

You're probably right. I was actually worried about the additional length added above the cushioning and whether that would change how it feels to fly.

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You're probably right. I was actually worried about the additional length added above the cushioning and whether that would change how it feels to fly.

Some will definitely say YES, it makes a difference. Some would never know. Let's see now, we've got 11", 13", 15", & 17" handles, so what difference does it make, if we hit somewhere in between one of those ............ ?

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You're probably right. I was actually worried about the additional length added above the cushioning and whether that would change how it feels to fly.

Some will definitely say YES, it makes a difference. Some would never know. Let's see now, we've got 11", 13", 15", & 17" handles, so what difference does it make, if we hit somewhere in between one of those ............ ?

Don't forget the 9" handles on the original Rev 1's. I know of a great flyer that had a set of 14"s made up. It might be a case of what you get used to.
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You're probably right. I was actually worried about the additional length added above the cushioning and whether that would change how it feels to fly.

Some will definitely say YES, it makes a difference. Some would never know. Let's see now, we've got 11", 13", 15", & 17" handles, so what difference does it make, if we hit somewhere in between one of those ............ ?

Don't forget the 9" handles on the original Rev 1's. I know of a great flyer that had a set of 14"s made up. It might be a case of what you get used to.
I meant the feel for me. I am a thumb on top flyer, but to get my thumb on top of the handle with the insert my hand would be half way off of the cushioning. that wouldn't be comfortable to me for an extended flying period.

@ Sparkierob...............I wasn't even aware of those 9" sets, or forgot !

@ Barton...........I remember when the "plastic anchor & screw" modification first came out, years ago, and there were some that actually objected to that, because it added 1/4" - 3/8", maybe even 1/2", to the overall distance, "between the upper and lower leaders", but in reality, probably for the reason that you just mentioned.

My solution to that was: If the added length, between the leaders, was going to be a problem with your flying, then cut the handle off clean, at the hog's ring hole, and then place the plastic anchor and screw there. This would result in leaders, that would exit the snag-less handle, at the very same place, as "where the hog's rings were originally located", and the set-up (distance between upper & lower leaders) would be restored.

Something on this order, may be and option that you would want to think about, should the added length of your inserts, become a problem, specifically on top. Remove that additional length, from the original handle, on both top and bottom, and - Voila ! Same length handles, same set-up, as original..

As before (years ago), my flying is not refined enough for this change to make a big difference, in how I control my kite. When I can fly my Revs, with 11" handles, turn around and use the standard 13" handles, and then pick up someone else's 15" handles, and still fly normally, I find it hard to understand how adding 1/4" to 3/8" to overall length of my handles, is going to present a problem (?). I do, however, understand that extending the top portion of the handles (above the grip), may present a comfort problem for some, but that could easily be remedied, as described above.

Still, a great idea you've got there, Barton, and with a little craftsmanship, no reason anyone couldn't adapt those inserts, to any size handles. The biggest challenge for most, should they desire to do so, will be cutting off the original factory handles, and preparing the ends, to accept the inserts. Those handles are stainless steel, and that stuff (as you well know) is tough, and won't be easily whacked off easily, with a hack saw. Yes, a simple retro-fit for some, a challenge for others.....

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Nick, the solution to that problem for me is simple. I personally am not going to install them on the top. Like you, I don't think I will notice the extra length on the bottom. When I get a batch made (and have outfitted my handles) if anyone is even interested in buying them (which I doubt since there are practically free solutions out there), then they are welcome to getting 2 sets to do the top and the bottom. Was thinking about giving away a set or 2 as a Karma prize maybe along with something else. A set of traditional handles with hog's rings adapted with the inserts in the bottom only would be around $20 cheaper than no snag handles. Plus, the stainless steel tube of the traditional handles is stiffer than the solid aluminum rod the no-snag handles are made from.

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Nick, the solution to that problem for me is simple. I personally am not going to install them on the top. Like you, I don't think I will notice the extra length on the bottom. When I get a batch made (and have outfitted my handles) if anyone is even interested in buying them (which I doubt since there are practically free solutions out there), then they are welcome to getting 2 sets to do the top and the bottom. Was thinking about giving away a set or 2 as a Karma prize maybe along with something else. A set of traditional handles with hog's rings adapted with the inserts in the bottom only would be around $20 cheaper than no snag handles. Plus, the stainless steel tube of the traditional handles is stiffer than the solid aluminum rod the no-snag handles are made from.

Sounds like a plan........... On a personal note, I dislike the hog's rings, whether they cause problems, or not. I simply don't like the way they look, which of course has absolutely nothing to do with their functionality; I just don't like them. I've been flying so long now, with retro-fitted handles, that when I see a set of stock handles, it makes me take a second look, every time. I actually forget, that's the way they come - stock!

I suppose adding a 1/2" or so, of length to the bottom end of the handle, would theoretically, be like adding just a touch more brake, eh? Maybe ? Don't see where that would be a problem..........for sure.....

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I suppose adding a 1/2" or so, of length to the bottom end of the handle, would theoretically, be like adding just a touch more brake, eh?   Maybe ?  Don't see where that would be a problem..........for sure.....

I know that for me 1/2" would not be enough to notice, but I don't think adding handle length would feel like more brake. The longer moment arm makes the brakes a tiny bit more sensitive. So you wouldn't be starting with more brake (other things being equal), but you would get braking with smaller hand motions.

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I suppose adding a 1/2" or so, of length to the bottom end of the handle, would theoretically, be like adding just a touch more brake, eh? Maybe ? Don't see where that would be a problem..........for sure.....

I know that for me 1/2" would not be enough to notice, but I don't think adding handle length would feel like more brake. The longer moment arm makes the brakes a tiny bit more sensitive. So you wouldn't be starting with more brake (other things being equal), but you would get braking with smaller hand motions.

Yep, yep...............that was the, "theoretically, be like adding just a touch more brake, eh? Maybe ?" part ! It's got to have some effect. I'm just not sure how much..........but either way, I'm with you - It would take more than 1/2" for me to notice a difference......I suppose I'm not quite that dialed in ! :cat_lol:

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