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Urban kiting tips


SparkieRob
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I've been doing a fair bit of urban/street kiting on my Revs recently and I thought I might be able to share some tips. Feel free to chime in with what works for you.

Pick your area. Clean air isn't important, in fact it adds an element of excitement. Cars and people MUST be considered, law suits can eat up future kite purchases. Consider street lights if going out at night. Obstacles like trees, shrubs can be detrimental but signs, bike racks and playground equipment are a plus! It never hurts to have a look around before you pull any gear out.

Pick your equipment. Buildings can both cause a wind shadow and a wind funnel. Distances of free space will affect your line length.

Pick your time. Watch out for midnight watering schedules. Or even early morning deliveries.

Most importantly is to be safe about it.

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Sometimes flying the little Micron in parking lots I lean it against a curb around a lamp post or use above tip. Hard to push a kite stake through the asphalt. If flying short lines I launch by carefully letting the lines slip through my fingers, a bit risky.

2/11/14 edit: I really enjoy topics like this as it expands my thoughts about kite flying & inspires me to fly more. If you wait for the ideal conditions & the perfect field it may be a long time between flights.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Night time is difficult all around. If filming, I have found that a full view of everything...you and the kite tends to work a bit better...for the reasons you mentioned. If the kite becomes dark, you can usually see the pilot still and gather what is happening in that moment.

Or find well lit parking lots..always nice ;)

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  • 1 year later...

I've gone through 2 sets of end caps on my bottom verts and 1 set on my LE flying over tarmac and concrete. Found these a couple weeks ago and decided to give them a try. Made for SLK's for adjustable bridling and such. I saw some potential in having to only replace the nylon stud. A couple of mods to suit my application and put them on tonight. I'll let you know how they go. Already have some notes for version #2!

 

 

IMG_3166.JPG

IMG_3165.JPG

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Great to see a modification like this.  I am anxious to hear further after you use them for a bit.  Your great pictures really show how far imagery has come in this day & age.  A few decades ago it would have taken a high end SLR with an expensive macro focus lens to get a good close-up.  Probably would have needed special lighting & finally good processing of the negatives & print.  Then we would have to wait for it to maybe show up in a hobby magazine.  Now I can just sit in my den & clearly see what's Rob is doing in his KiteLife.  Gotta love it.  SHBKF  

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Does the nylon stud screw into a threaded hole? Very slick solution, BTW.

Yes. The stud is a M5 metric thread, which is handy for me. Nylon studs aren't too common but they can be found and postage is cheep.

Version #2

The ID for the rod will be slightly smaller, 7.6mm diameter instead of 8.1.

The hole for the bunjis and bridle will be bigger, 5.0mm instead of 3.5.

I'll source an "O" ring for the inside bottom of the end cap as a shock absorber.

Possible ideas:

A lighter Flint on the bottom for "spark taps" on the road.

Magnets for light pole resting.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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On 5/13/2014 at 2:39 PM, SparkieRob said:

If you want to film your adventures at night have the brightest light behind the camera. Sometimes the kite can disappear in the sky.

just increase your exposure in your camera's setting if there's one or using the "firework" scene setting ... downside is that the camera have to be on a tripod or be very still to get a clarity picture.

 

that nylon/skidplate end cap is a great idea and before I saw that ... I was about to order this and see how it goes after change into a longer cord

http://www.iballz.info/ 

og_large.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

4 months on and I'm replacing the nylon studs in the bottom two verts. I must admit since putting them in I have been a little more aggressive with the landings, either 2 point or wing tips.

Now actively making prototype number 2. Just using the mods I mentioned earlier. I did put an "O" ring inside about a month back. The rods show not fractures or chips which is good.

1/ making the magnets this time.

2/ the lighter flints have proved a little more work. I've used some epoxy to glue a Zippo flint in an interference hole. Haven't taken the out....yet.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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