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What gives different frames in quads ?


povlhp

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Not discussing preferences, what does different rods give to the kite, particularly a quad ?

Is it all about weight with the 2-wrap, 3-wrap, 4-wrap all being of more or less same stiffness ? And less weight is

lower wind abilities.

Race frames are more flexible. So they will influence flight directly from this

What does a P90 give over the others ? Lighter than all the rev frames, and liked by some.

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Weight,flex,return of flex....price. It is the ability to fine tune your kite for just about all conditions.

You don't want so much flex that you lose the belly (pressure) in the sail and the ability for the kite to react quickly from inputs.

Everyones preferences will be different...it's basically a fly it and see if it feels good for you.

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The wrap frames are stiffer and weigh more as you go up in wraps, But they do have a similar style of flex. You are correct in that the race is more flexible, but it also has a much different way about it. The return to straight and not "bouncing" can be used to great advantage. Never have tried a set of rods made of P 90s, but have heard they are lighter for low winds.

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I read in multiple places that heavier rods = slower kite. So not only about low wind capabilities.

I guess as a relative newbie, I should use heavier rods when possible.

Probably also why the classic 1.5 is with SLE, and the EXP are heavy rods as well.

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10-4 on dragonfish's comment! The EXP has unmarked or EXP marked rods, that are 3 wraps in disguise. No difference there. There is a big difference in the SLE rods. A much larger diameter and almost no flex at all. Great learning rods, but most toss them after getting past the early crashing learning curve. Personally, I've never used them, the 3 wrap 1/4" rods provide all the strength needed. All the 1.5 rods are interchangeable in all the 1.5 size sails.

To a degree, I agree on using heavier rods to learn on. The lighter rods are slightly more fragile, not bad for the experienced flier. And it's not so much a case of fragile, but they don't tolerate hits at an angle as well. But taking all this in mind, the lighter tubes do still have their place. What's important is having a certain amount of bend in the leading edge. I look for a certain amount of flex, if that gets exceeded, I either change frames or change kites.

Now I haven't any experience on your Transeye (all my experience is with Revs), so I have no idea of how difficult the rods are to swap. But lighter or heavier rods (stiffness) should change the way it works. Also not sure how a mixed combination of rods in that sail might work!

As for speed - I can't say that there is a direct relationship between rod weight and speed. I will say it's more about control! Too light a rod will flex too much in higher winds and you lose control. Heavier (less flexible) will return the control back to you in the same winds - but up to a point! Get conditions that are above the sail's capabilities and no rods will fix any problems. Say it's gusty - the heavy rods work great for that, but then are a burden during lulls.

Not knowing, do the Rev rods match up in length? Or can you make more frames from other Sky Shark P series rods? You'll need to figure in whatever is used for ferrules also. But making your own is a definite money saving move, if you can and want to. If you do make your own, find out what you have now, so you don't duplicate what you already have!

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Transeye likes flex. People only change center in higher wind. It has skyshark/ rev compatible rods. P200 like.

Getting a rev derived vented as well. Can I use one size center with different sides (not verticals) in LE? Or will outer diameter difference wear out the pocket ? Easier to change that way.

The vents in the Freilein windrider X is more like the weave than the rev. Distributed across the surface. And I think it is much better looking.

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As long as the 3 rods making up the leading edge are the same diameter, ie 1/4" rods, then you can mix and match to your hearts content. DO NOT MIX 1/4" rods and the bigger 1/2"(?) rods, as one will slip right over the other or might separate, causing the outer to split! Really not too difficult to seat same diameter rods, just work on getting them right. That also means getting them fully seated together for strength. Gaps can cause splitting! Some take a piece of sandpaper to the ferrules and taper them slightly!!

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I thought the diameter was the internal diameter (only have 1 size of rods), and would expect 3-wrap to have a larger outer diameter than 2-wrap, and thus using different center piece would have sharp edges from the outside LE elements wear down the pocket. It is the inner diameter that is 7 mm.

I can see the Skyshark goes from 0.275" to 0.300" in outer diameter (from P90 -> P400). That is a difference of 0.025" or 0.635mm. Enough to increase wear on the pocket if it moves. Of course if you use a mid-sized center, it is only 0.3 mm.

The optimal solution might be sanding both ends of the center, and one end of the outside LE spart down to 0.275", so everything will have one common diameter where it meets. But maybe I am overthinking things here. Or should just replace all 3 at a time.

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One thing with Rev rods, it's the internal diameter that is the measured one. The ferrule the joins the 2 rods is the same from Diamond to 4 Wrap. That's how you can mix and match different rods to create a different flexing leading edge. The difference in outer diameter would be very negligible. How thick is a wrap of carbon?

The other thing with Revs and their frames is by redistributing the weight gives different flight dynamics. Not just actual flying but also slack line tricks.

Don't limit yourself to a frame made only of the same rods, mix up with different weights and flex. The results will surprise you.

That and holes can be patched.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Do not sand the outsides past the point of removing more than the clear finish!!! Removing black material means you are starting to remove wrapping material! You're compromising the rod's integrity. Any tube shape is very strong until that shape is messed with in any way.

Rob is right - the actual difference between any rod combo is almost negligible. We regularly use a mix of different rods and have noticed no problems. In my Zen I've used a mixed frame in the leading edge for over a year now and noticed no issues. Even in my SUL which has a lighter material pocket, again using mixed rods has caused no problems over a 4-5 year period.

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