Jump to content
KiteLife Forum

Rev I and 1.5 tweaks


audioRob
 Share

Recommended Posts

Ive heard about some bridle adjustments for the 1.5 (I like the I alot, probably wont be touching it much if at all).

Would seem that moving the tow points inwards would make the kite much more sensitive to movements and same goes for moving them outwards (opposite: larger movements.. more precision).

Im thinking of modding my 1.5 up really feirce for rev-tricking and using my new beautiful rev I for precisiony stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Interesting... You'll have to dose us with some details, and maybe some video!

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I must be the only kiter on the planet without a video camera. Particularly ironic since I work with video quite often.

Someday soon hopefully, im so mighty picky when it comes to tech stuff.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few tweaks I've done to my Rev 1.5:

Reframed it with a P300 LE and 5PT downspars. This dropped the weight of the kite by about 1.5 oz. It weighs 8.5 oz. The frame is more flexible, but I kind of like it that way. It performs better in lower winds obviously, and is much snappier and more responsive.

Made a set of quad sticks. I really like them. They stiffen the lighter frame a bit, so there's less "bounce". Of course, you can lean the kite on them for easy parking and relaunch. My favorite characteristic though is the glide. Something about the balance or added stiffness of the quad sticks makes the kite glide during catches and throws - it doesn't just drop from the sky like a stick with loose fabric.

These two tweaks alone have made a fun kite even more fun.

I've also made my own handles with 14.5" throws (with no hogrings). And I've made pigtails that are around 18", maybe longer. I only have 4-6 knots on the tops at the end of the pigtails. I think I have two knots on the bottoms. I made them this long so I would be grabbing dacron instead of spectra for 3-D flying.

One handy tweak I've done on my Rev 2, but not on my 1.5 yet, is remove the knots. For information on this Read this page

This information is from Rich Durant (woodpekr on the forums).

In fact, I believe KiteBuilder has specially made endcaps that are already prepared for this use.

If you want to mess with the bridle, I suggest you get in touch with Paul LeMasters (REVflyer) or Harold Ames (kitesquid). If anyone knows about tweaking quad bridles, it's these guys.

Hope this helps,

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One comment on the bridle. If you move the towpoints inward, it probably will increase the responsiveness of the kite. However, I would venture to guess that moving it in very much would make the kite very oversteerish.

IMHO, the SLE makes the 1.5 oversteerish as it is. Moving the towpoints in would make this worse.

Reframing as I've desribed above makes the 1.5 significantly more responsive and snappy - without messing with the bridle. It may cost more money to reframe, but it takes less time and you can easily switch right back if you don't like it.

Just some thinking out loud - I haven't experimented with the bridle.

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm much like John (well, a little handsomer...) in that my Revs are basically stock. Maybe its an East Coast thing? :D

I have a few minor changes currently on my lightest 1.5 and 1, I've swapped the bungie out for stuff thats half the size, and replaced the washers with very light plastic washers. I've looked into Durant's method of "no knots" using the PEKR caps, however I have yet to actually do it to a kite yet, I found the first time I tried, I didnt like how the sail curved around the rod at the tips. I intend to try again... And ya Jason, I bought those end caps thru kitebuilder.com . Very neat idea, I just haven't spent enough time with it yet, but as you get into more of the agressive tricks, the fewer knots to get caught up on, the better.

:D

I'd love to see some pictures, measurements of some bridle tweaks but the last time I asked in the GWTW forum, the deafening silence was kinda scary.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With my handles, I tend to replace the pigtails with multiple knotted ones, John had a good picture of his a few days ago and I wrote an article on Kitelife about it in the August issue.

I'm also intending to drill mine out and loose the buckle that holds the pigtail on. One less thing for the line to catch on. :D

And when will we see pictures of your new Rev 1?

Now you are so far into the dark side, you'll be giving away the duals...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With my handles, I tend to replace the pigtails with multiple knotted ones, John had a good picture of his a few days ago and I wrote an article on Kitelife about it in the August issue.

I'm also intending to drill mine out and loose the buckle that holds the pigtail on. One less thing for the line to catch on.  :ani_punk:

And when will we see pictures of your new Rev 1?

Now you are so far into the dark side, you'll be giving away the duals...

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

I like to keep the top line knot free, my bottom pigtails have 4 knots approx 1 inch apart. I also took a pair of pliers and sqqquuueeezzzeedddd the buckle so it's now flat and rounded. I figured it probably weakened the metal a bit but I have no doubt that the lines will snap way before the buckle will.

I found out that my local home depot will bend piping for you so im headed over there today to get some new handles :) Trying to think of an elegant way to attach lines to it. Im sure there is something really neat.

Im deteremined to learn axel->fade today on the 1.5.. I know it can be done, saw a fellow doing it with ease (and some othe extremely cool tricks) last sunday.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's how I did mine:

Photos of homemade handles

I posted a detailed build thread on the GWTW forum, but basically used 1/2" aluminum with a 3/8" inner diameter. It's a fairly thick wall, so they're strong. I think each handle started out at 18". I believe I just ordered this in one 36" section from www.onlinemetals.com .

I then bent it to an appropriate angle. The trick here was to start the bend at the proper place (I think my bend started about 3" down from the top), and bend to a good angle. I tried to basically match my stock Rev handles. Of course, do your very best to make the handles match each other.

Next, I slid on the grips (Hypalon from Mudhole.com). If they're too tight to slide, you can use some rubbing alcohol to make it easier. It will evaporate. I didn't use any kind of glue to hold my grips in place and only get minimal movement. I may have to slide them back 1/2" or so every once in a while.

Then, I cut four sections of 3/8" wooden dowel to about 1" - 1.5". I took those sections, and using 5-minute epoxy, inserted them into each end of each handle - effectively gluing the wooden plugs inside the handle ends. I cut/scraped up the wooden plugs a bit to give the epoxy some spaces, since the 3/8" plug into a 3/8" tube is a tight fit. I actually let this dry overnight.

Then, I put a 1/2" vinyl endcap on each end.

Lastly, I screwed a strong eye hook into each wooden plug, through the vinyl endcap. You can see this in the photos.

This makes for a clean attachment, with no dangling parts. I've been using these handles for maybe two years now with no failure. Altogether I think these cost me around $25 and took maybe two hours of actual building time - if that. And I'm not a real handy guy. :ani_punk:

Hope this helps,

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My custom rev bridles allow the kite to fly higher towards overhead, when doing the 3D catch, when compared to the stocker (I think the stock one needs to be about 70% high, to land on me without any movement).

The bridle knots are reduced in size or eliminated entirely to prevent a walk-of-shame if the leading edge falls forward covering the bridle lines. All the bungie knots are covered with fabric belt-loops or I've switched to automotive oh-rings to completely remove the knots/washers/elastic.

I collapse the bottom triangle of fabric where the two elastics come out to adhere to the sail. Remove the two washers and tie both loose elastic ends together, then run the down spar underneath so it can't pull thru the sail. This makes the kite excellorate faster in forward which inturn means I can fly with more down in the tuning of my long throw handles. The sail will not flutter anymore and the down spars are now stationary. Movement of these tubes makes for wasted energy in low wind conditions. This has been extensively compared by my local group of builders.

That's all I can think of currently, but we have played with many variables over the years.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I attached some tow points directly to the top and bottom of the kite. No more bridle on my 1.5. Added quad sticks and tommorow looks like a good day to fly. New 17" handles as well.

Im sure none of this is new, but except for the quad sticks this is all my thinking so far and im proud of myself :mf_swordfight:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You'll need the longer handles with no bridle, since the towpoints will be much farther apart. Also with no bridle, you'll have no support in the center of the LE - unless you've done something to compensate for this. If you're using anything other than the SLE, you may very well break the LE if there's much wind.

I tried my Rev 2 with no bridle with mixed thoughts. It was probably two years ago, so I don't remember exactly the pros and cons - but I ended up putting the bridle back on. I may try it again, since it's a simple mod.

I think I also tried connecting to the bridle on the top (for support), and the bottoms of the downspars - to have the support for the LE, but in a sense have no bridle. But again, I don't remember the results - just that I ended up with the bridle back on.

Jason

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm much the same with respect to "no bridles", decidely mixed about it.

It does make the kite very responsive, but, in my experience, overly so. Interestingly, I flew a Rev 1 without a bridle on the weekend, but, my opinion remained the same. Indoors, I prefer it, outdoors, I'd rather have a bridle to more "gently" transmit my actions to the kite.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did add a connection in the center to stiffen the rod, but I already did a stress test and the quad-sticks themselves prevent flex very well.

My beautiful handles (which aren't so beautiful but they rock) can be changed from 8" to 24" in under a minute. Right now I have a set that's 18" (not 17, i mismeasured) and a 22" and a 12". They let you wrap up your lines on them vertically as well. Pictures soon..

As for the my reaons on trying without bridle, I really like my larger handles as they put more mass in my hands, a little more swing when I need it and they naturally stabilize the kite when held at the pivot point and allow for extremely small movements... i much prefer my larger handles but they extend more than the tow points on the standard bridle.

Either way, I left the bridle on for quick comparison. If this doesnt work, Im going to design my own bridle.

and no, there's no way im touching my Rev I, it's beautiful as is (with quad sticks).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...