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Quad handle types and line brands


Melissa Wallace
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Well I used the raw plug and screw method and took the leaders out the caps top and bottom , I noticed some other Handel mods had the leaders coming out at 90 degrees to the Handel’s and thought that could still snag , but the rubber is tight so will stop my leaders popping off the screws


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10 hours ago, kevmort said:

Well I used the raw plug and screw method and took the leaders out the caps top and bottom , I noticed some other Handel mods had the leaders coming out at 90 degrees to the Handel’s and thought that could still snag , but the rubber is tight so will stop my leaders popping off the screws emoji4.png


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The ideal would be to come out of the cap at about 30 to 45 degrees from the tip, but anything from 0 to 90 degrees will work 317% better than the original hog rings. (The percentage of 317 was found to be accurate in a government-funded study.:)) You just need to make sure the leaders are not rubbing against the edge of the screw which will cut through them. You can add a "sacrificial" extension from the screw to the leader that can be quickly and easily replaced when it wears through instead having to tie or buy new leaders. The leaders will eventually wear, but you can extend their life considerably by using the extensions.

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2 hours ago, kevmort said:

I’m working out a different way to do the fixing by running a line through the Handel’s and using beads at each ends of the Handel’s to act as swivels under the rubber caps reducing ware


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Running the line lengthwise through each handle?

I had trouble with my carbon handles keeping the internal line taut as it always develops play/slop in between the knots and is a bugger to correct.

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Running the line lengthwise through each handle?
I had trouble with my carbon handles keeping the internal line taut as it always develops play/slop in between the knots and is a bugger to correct.


Yes I had thought of doing that or another option could be to make a pin to go through the Handel’s where the holes are for the original fixings to go through a loop on a preleader line then through a bead to stop chaffing on the Handel tubes , the caps would keep the pins in place


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The pin idea sounds great but you would need to have a shoulder on the bead for a press fit to retain it somehow?

If the pin was alloy (I'm thinking alloy TIG welding rod)  it could be gently peened over to mushroom it on the ends.

Or maybe if you added an internal "plastic tube?" bushing to be a press fit over pin it would add to its internal security.

All my stainless handles have the raw-plug treatment (90 degree exit through the cap) but as mentioned I do get an occasional snag on the brake line. Even with my full alloy snag-less handles I can manage it. Just my dumb thumbs I reckon. 

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  • 1 year later...

Old school was the Nail, cut down to fit across the tube's diameter and the leaders larks headed to that stopping point. Covered with the vinyl end-cap threading the leader thru the hole made at the top

easier for most of us is the fitting of a plastic drywall moly and holding the leader is a screw (w/o threads running to the top, I like the trumpet head personally)

 

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  • 1 month later...
On 3/17/2018 at 7:35 PM, Russ Wilson said:

Going back to the OP's question about snagless handles, I recently bought some Asian gold anodized handles and for the most part I really like them.   The size, feel, and look are fine.  The problem I have is with the leaders - they are too short.  I tried to remove them and attach a pair of TK's leaders but could not fit them thru the hole in the handles.  Was wondering if anyone else has run into the same problem?  I'm going to take them back home and ream out the hole with the drill press.  That should make them work but it would be nice to find a set of handles that works out of the box.

It seems Walt is no longer making the Rev snagless handles - I can't even find them for sale anymore.  Given that, what are people buying when they don't want to use the drywall trick with their original handles?

s-l1600.jpg

I crimped the end of a high E guitar string (about 3 inches) and used it to pull the leader through.

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