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DTill
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@Corey Bell You can also search for Cuben Fiber which was the original name for this fabric.. Quite pricey but strength to weight ratio is off the chart.

@DTill Looking forward to your next build.. Remember, metal shears, scissors and cutters will be dulled a touch by the Dyneema. Plan accordingly.

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Only going to use the rotary cutter on this one. This fabric is almost transparent. Cut one panel on a different bias than the other. So this has now become a rev 2 sized wing. Originally bought this yard for that reason so no loss. Ordered rev 2 & 1 sized bridles today. What is the spare length of a rev 2? 24"?

 

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15455080464701255695353.jpgTransparent fabic is interesting to work with, having natural light helps. Got the corners reinforced and edges bound. Working with the tape is one shot deal, the fabric stetches and distorts if you try to pull it apart. Rolling the air bubbles out of the seem is an interesting process, a needle and a urethane roller seemto work well.

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Got the sail finished today. Original idea to punch holes for the leading edge was thwarted by the fact that this stuff is impossible to punch hole in. Installing the mesh was a step I hadn't planned on, but I think it turned out pretty good. Need to cut one the frame and install the bungi's and caps. Is it O.K to do this now or should I wait until I have the bridle? 

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Dyneema is pretty strong stuff.

A blunt question.. @DTill do you know how to adjust the bridles if needed?  You've come a long ways in a short amount of time. You really should explore tying your own moving forward.. It saves you money and allows you to experiment even more. Hit me up privately and I'll gladly share some of my experiences on how to make your own jig.

If you are sure of your dimensions you can finish up now and wait for the bridles. I always tie my bridles last in case I need to adjust a dimension slightly.  Is waiting for the bridles going to change anything about how you are constructing this sail? If so then you've answered your own question. if not, you've also answered your question..

 

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Thinking of making  a set of 11 inch handles with some of John's leaders. I would like to try some cork handles and 5/16 stainless tube. Should be pretty easy using the snagless mod. Looking at fishing rod building sites now.

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if you're making your own handles you might consider titanium tubes 3/8" in diameter instead,..... super strong stuff and light weight too (that means you can change directions (Flail) more quickly, as there's less mass to redirect into a new direction).  

You can bend 'em in a pipe bender easily, but should probably pack that tube TIGHTLY with wet sand before bending, so they don't get pinched.  My bend is all the way at the top, gradually straightening out too and it means slight flick of my thumb translates into an 18" movement of the brake line,.. or in other words you can flick the kite inside out w/ just a snappy thumb stab! Imagine the slack line tricks you could create with dramatic moves on your arms or feet, perhaps both together + the thumb(s)?!!

Grips can be acquired from a fishing supply store, what diameter of foam?, how soft should it be?, what length is appropriate?  I flew on "extended by carbon tube insertion into the shorty steel" handles until I determined my needs, as the tubes of TI are expensive.  Mine are grade 5 tubes 19 inches in length, they have been driven over be a car w/o bending or a mark of damage and the kite can carry them underneath if the handles are released entirely,... like to recover your field, (assume about a 300% glide length w/magic sticks or a floaty-glide capable wing = make double darn sure downwind is clear!)

The photo has a Altoids Mint Box (about the size of a pack of cigs) and kite stake for scale.

If you are insistent on 5/16" diameter, you could certainly use an aluminum tube, again consider a longer length too, as using 'em for low wind conditions is the hot set-up.  In "big wind" you only need a slight difference, or at the end of the day your wrists will hurt from all of the torque applied by super long throw handles.

What is a good length for everything? 14 or 15 inches, many use 13's to great satisfaction as well.  I'm on a full vent or more venting kit with short handles, but that is personal preference.

Don't be in a hurry to slap some dough down and not know exactly what you want, unless you want a whole basement full of stuff you don't use any more (like me!)

Ti handles.jpg

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Why so short? Almost everyone uses at least the standard 13" handles, and some like longer. They are always measured from straight stock, then bent. So 13" of straight tube ends up around 12" or so between the leader connection points.

Short handles can be OK in heavy winds. Myself, I use 13" when using a full vent or my Xtra vent. My "normal" handles are 14" used on full sail, mid vent, and sometimes the full vent. !15" handles are pretty much used with my Ashes or SUL/Zen moments. 

This is not meant to dissuade you from trying that length, just to inform on what most use. In the end it all comes down to whatever suits you. Feel free to experiment - it is the only way to find your setup!

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Eleven inch handles will decrease the effect of every input you give the kite. This is good if you are flying in strong wind or a smaller kite like a B2. This is BAD if want to learn better control. Longer handles force you to use the correct amount of input to achieve the result you want. With shorter handles you can give "sloppy" input to the kite and get away with it, but the reduced length will not allow the throw distance you need to initiate some advanced moves like axels for instance. The best way to improve your skills is to use long handles on small kites to hone input precision. I've been flying quad for almost 10 years and still don't have 11" handles (but I do want a set). There are some quads that require short handles -- Revs do not.

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Eleven inch handles will decrease the effect of every input you give the kite. This is good if you are flying in strong wind or a smaller kite like a B2. This is BAD if want to learn better control. Longer handles force you to use the correct amount of input to achieve the result you want. With shorter handles you can give "sloppy" input to the kite and get away with it, but the reduced length will not allow the throw distance you need to initiate some advanced moves like axels for instance. The best way to improve your skills is to use long handles on small kites to hone input precision. I've been flying quad for almost 10 years and still don't have 11" handles (but I do want a set). There are some quads that require short handles -- Revs do not.

I tried 15" handles at our last kite festival. Cath Shook had them on her mesh and let me fly hers. I like them and am hoping to get a set soon. My usual set are 13".


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Thanks for all the input. I just finished a B2 sized kite and figured since they came with 11's I'd try that size. Ordered some grips for .25 & .375 tubes. I'll see what I can source locally for tubing. All so have some leaders on the way. Maybe I'll start a new thread when I get the parts. Seems to be plenty of interest and suggestions.

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Another in the bag, there's a satisfying feeling folding up a new build and stuffing it in the  bag after you've  worked on it so long. Got a chance to fly it today, didn't have a bridle so I tied up some pigtails and flew it off the verticals. Had to adjust  a bunch of brake into it. Very responsive/ twitchy, but it flew in fairly light wind. So little pull it was hard tell what it needed to do at the edge. Tended to sheet out and drop. Next projects are a SUL 1.5 and some cork handled  controls. I'm fly fisherman and think foam handles are ghetto.  

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