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Corey Bell

UMMM now what?

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Except the installation shown has it installed incorrectly already!

needs ALL of the bridle leg attachment point to face the center,... none should be affixed from the outside,

collapse to the center, the leading edge's bridle should pull from below and the others from center outwards

All of the bridles' legs should be tight, when picked-up by just the two top attachment points!!!

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Depends on how particular you want to be, Paul. Yes - for consistency, all the connections should pull from the same direction towards the middle. Is it absolute?? YMMV. I will admit to going over my kites and redoing bridle connections, making them all the same. Also when setting up - my caps and bunjis are set a certain way. For me it is all part of the patterning that keeps my brain at ease. For others - it keeps things untangled and "clean".

Remember this little saying as you connect the vertical leg to the horizontal; - "little through big, big through little". Forms that hinge and knot.

 PS: Paul - you need to show me how you adjust a bridle to take out that "play" you're talking about. WSIKF!!! Or maybe I'll talk to Scotty W. first.

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Hi Wayne,

add a loop around any end cap with slack, (a 2nd pass around).

pass the long line loop thru the smaller looped version a couple of times (I like 3. but it's very tough to snug into position).  That takes out some of the slop in the two bridle attachment "hinge" area.

You can also make the middle of the leading edge a tighter attachment point, even all the way down to snug, (thereby removing all of the wiggle there too) but that means some more adjustments to get the kite back to tension on all bridle legs with you just holding the kite by the 2 top bridle attachment points (were the flying lines attach)

Doing all of this together gets you to the 1point6 bridle, which is what I used before switching over to the French '99 to '08.

Have you noticed? that every new kite creates their own idea of what a successful bridle should look and feel like?  Because the original design had too much slop built-in necessitating a pre-load being applied (Whump?)

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Paul - makes sense now. I always had the idea that doing this would end up with the bridle right up against the sail. Now I see that it really is just some minor adjusting to get the desired results. Are you using that many connecting knots at the hinge to eliminate it? Or?

I see what you mean about all the new bridles. The 3 Winds uses a diamond shape in the top connection. Haven't studied John's Sync enough yet to comment. A home build out here is using something that Lam had a lot of input on. Seems pretty solid in all wind conditions.

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Wayne, the connecting knot at the hinge is just a prussic knot to me when finished (instead of 1 time thru,... the larger loop passing thru the smaller loop and being snug down to tight, as demonstrated in Watts's video)

I recommend going twice thru, or if your really willing the struggle a 3rd pass thru, = smaller hinge or less wiggle.

Wiggles dilute pilot commands (or they add oversteer), which might be a benefit in big wind (you'd want it smoothed out, right?) but that isn't helping where I live!!!  I need it more responsive, you might even say I even want it twitchy.  I use 19' titanium handles and 50#/100 ft lines most of the time, given a choice.

If all the bridle lines tighten with just the top two flight lines tensioned you get a better glide, Where you place the angles applied matters as well, obviously.  The point is you can control the glide's decent when recovering your field by applying or Lessing the effect of the brake/bottom lines,.... if you let go entirely of both handles inverted and at or near the top of the wind window, it should go about 300% of that released altitude ALL BE ITSELF.  So don't ever tell me you can't recover your field 'cause the kite doesn't even need you involved to do that!

Let's look at oversteer a minute, that is something for nothing and also a requirement to learn it's uniqueness for you can maximum the impact/effect.  Says you want a flat Axel, do you need to guide it 3/4 of the way around or 7/8,... knowing that last little bit comes free w/oversteer built in.   

I hate that!  I want to make it go all the way around myself, demanding both handles to create the action necessary, so you can dial it around slowly, or only go half way (into a fade), or even changing lanes, throwing it out further away from center of the wind window ~ way out beyond the edge, instead towards it.  With sufficient experience it just feels right, demanding a bigger movement means no sloppy adding in all by it's lonesome self.  

I spent 7 months comparing and testing before switching to the French Bridle.  I few six years on the stock bridle until creating the 1point6. That was actually a whole kite, it had to fly in no wind and had to also use the SLE leading edge.  Throws and catches were magical on those kites.  KiteSquid/Harold Ames made them for the Smithsonian Kite Festival '99, no-sew construction, ink-jet printed sails, two kites locked together thru the use of rare earth magnets affixed along the LE.  We won master's ingenuity, cooperative category & sport kite as "novices".  Harold made 4 prototypes before arriving at one we could love.  No elastic tensioning, knots or washers, instead he'd sewn belt loops into the reinforcing patches of a Dacron and adhered the sail to frame with automotive oh-rings, 9460 VHB 3M adhesive for the taped assembly.

sorry, slow morning at the office & this is long

@ WSIKF we can discuss tuning until the cows come in Wayne, one of my favorite topics!

 

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UPDATE 2-8-19 I got the bridle on my vented, thank you all for the help. 

Good winds today and got to fly it for 2 hours or so. A really nice day to be barefoot in the sand!!

It is a little different from what was on before, not enough to hinder flight.

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We solved the bridle installation direction issues with the Djinn end caps and bridle, using dedicated bridle holes that point the right way already and don’t conflict with the bunji direction. 👍🏻

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8 hours ago, John Barresi said:

We solved the bridle installation direction issues with the Djinn end caps and bridle, using dedicated bridle holes that point the right way already and don’t conflict with the bunji direction. 👍🏻

I'm going to order some of these and try them on my revs!!

Anyone do this yet?

 

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Be advised - some folks have done it but sometimes Rev rods are too snug (they are hand wrapped and vary in diameter), welcome to try but I cannot guarantee the fit. 🙏🏻

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I know on Bazzer's caps - they won't fit 3 or 4 wrap frames without reaming them out. Yours being metal - that wouldn't work

Bazzer's caps (and probably JB's) do fit diamond, 2 wrap, and all race rods from Rev. But still I would check for fit. They will go on, but hell to get off on some rods!!!

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