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New Flyer Rev EXP questions

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RX is having the same spars dimensions like 1.5 but the surface is bigger. the V is lower making the kite to have with probably 1/5 more sail then 1.5 

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So I did the handle conversion to the JB leaders today.  I used the method covered on another post using the #10 blue drywall anchors.  Are those really gonna hold?  Also, I did not tie or larks head or anything under the screw, just laid it as flat as I could under the screw head....Is that the correct method or should I have tied it off....seems like it holds when I pull on it but I don't want this coming apart during flying...just looking for reassurance I guess...

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I know that with the handles I have, the leaders are tied to the handle with a larks head.  There are also pan head screws on the handles vs drywall screws.

This is then located under a rubber/vinyl cap.  Not sure of the actual material.

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2 hours ago, Lon said:

I know that the handles I have, the leaders are tied to the handle with a larks head

I second that - I larks-head the leader to the screw just below the screw head.  I would think it would be prone to slipping off otherwise.

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If you got a kit, the screws go with the anchors. You can get panhead SS screws if you want. I larkshead my leaders on, then gently tighten down. Thread the vinyl on and you are gtg.

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3 hours ago, Wayne Dowler said:

If you got a kit, the screws go with the anchors.

What kit are referring to Wayne?

I also "gently" tightened down the screws😉

 

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At my Home Depot, you got screws with the anchors in a bubble pak (kit). They weren't drywall screws, closer to panheads.

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The leaders will move less and therefore take longer to wear out if you secure them to the screw using a clove hitch. Also not as bulky as the larkshead.

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1 hour ago, makatakam said:

The leaders will move less and therefore take longer to wear out if you secure them to the screw using a clove hitch. Also not as bulky as the larkshead.

I will give this a try!!

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Yes Lon - just a gentle tightening on the leaders. 

Drywall screws are way too small. I used those that came in the package, anchors and screws. They should be blue anchors.Don't overly cleanup the tubes, just remove the flake caused by punching the holes. Flange on anchor will cover the end of the tube, preventing rubbing leader to metal. Gently tighten down on the leaders. 

PS: for those really worried about it - If the screw has threads right to the top, you can file them down some and knock off the edge to the thread. I like to chuck up the screw in my electric drill and take a small file to the threads. Dulls them some. I don't try to go flush, just knock the sharpness off.

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You can find screws at most hardware stores that have no thread at least 1/4" down the shank from the head with no problem, and definitely find the anchors that have the flange at one end. Panhead screws are ok, but may have a bit of a rough edge. I prefer the beveled countersink head type. If you can't find them in a kit/prepack buy them separately. These items literally cost pennies each. Get the right stuff and make the job easy. Carefully remove the burr on the outside of the handle tube and don't worry about the inside. Any rough edge or surface on the inside will hold the anchor better and if it doesn't want to fit easily just force it in. You'll need to poke a new hole in each vinyl tip cover and fish the leader through. If you like you can use sacrificial loops to which you attach the leaders. This way if there's any rough spots the loops will take the wear and your leaders will stay untouched. I always did both top and bottom of each handle. Doing the top is not necessary, but it does look better, and there is zero chance of the tops snagging if done. You can do two sets of handles, both tops and bottoms, for less than $10 if you look for loose screws and anchors, and get the job done in less than an hour, so there's no reason you shouldn't.

You'll love the performance of your new snagless handles. There are solid aluminum no snag handles available for purchase if you prefer and don't mind spending money. I purchased some from one of the IKE club members who used to make them, after I had modified the first two original sets I had, and I must admit I like them more than the modded ones.

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