Seeking advice on how to stack Rev's

[fileone]

Please excuse my blatant lack of knowledge, as I have just recently become addicted to Revolution Kites.

I have already collected three Rev's, and I would like to experiment with a mini stack of dual EXP's. I have absolutely no knowledge of how to approach stacking Rev's, and I was hoping to ask the experts on how to do this properly.

- Are stacking lines available for purchase, or do these line need to be fabricated by the individual flyer?

- What other considerations should be included in stacking Rev's (stronger lines, longer lines, etc)?

- Do certain Rev's perform better in a stacked configuration?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks from a newbie.

*I apologize for being pesky, as I posted this on the RevKites.com Forum as well...

[Dorsal]

Revolution does make stacking lines for their kites, but the only ones I can find online right now are the ones for their Speed series. Suggested lengths (from the Wayback machine) were:

Rev 1 to Rev 1 - 5 ft.

Rev 1.5 to Rev 1 - 5 ft.

Rev 1.5 to Rev 1.5 - 5 ft.

Rev 2 to Rev 1 - 6 ft.

Rev 2 to Rev 1.5 - 4 ft.

Rev 2 to Rev 2- 4 ft.

So go over to KiteBuilder, learn how to make a bridle board and make your own set (probably about 4 ft length). I believe they need 5 lines between each 2 kites.

[fileone]

Thanks to Dorsal for the information.

I checked out kitebuilder.com and found some links on bridle boards/jigs, but all of the links I was interested in were dead producing 404 errors, and timing out. Any other resources online that you can put me on the path to?

Your help is greatly appreciated.

[Dorsal]

Well, the link to http://kites.icelands.ca/misc/bridleboard.jpg does work, but you MUST use M$IE to get it - I don't know why. You may need to try a couple times - electrons seem to move more slowly in Iceland.

I would just email you the jpg file if that were possible here.

My bridle board is pretty low tech. I filed the head off 3 nails, and drove one into a 4-foot long board, near the top, leaving about 1" of the nail exposed. Then I drove another one in, near the other end. Then I drove in the 3rd one about 12" from the second one, back toward the first one but not directly in line. So, when I made the 5' long lines for my Spirit stack, I hooked the line onto the first nail, went around the second nail and tied the last loop to the 3rd nail.

Actual Process: I made a 5-inch long pigtail for each stack line, by using 12 inches of line to make a loop with a figure-eight knot at the end. I made these as close to the same length as possible, from the knot to the inside of the loop.

Then, I actually hooked one of these pigtail loops over the first nail. Then I tied a short (2 to 3 inches) loop onto the end of my spool of bridle line and larksheaded that to the knot on the pigtail. I then ran the spool of bridle line around the second nail and toward the third one. Then I tied a loose overhand knot in the line, about 5 inches BACK from the end nail. I found that working with the spool in my hand was a PITA, so I then cut off the line about 8 inches PAST the end nail. I slip the free end of the line through the overhand knot and use it to tighten the bridle line until it makes the same note as all the rest of my lines made (in other words, make all your lines with the same amount of tension.) I tie the line off with a double half-hitch followed by a clove hitch and cut/burn the excess off. The tie-off knot is a little unsightly, but I haven't lost one in flight yet.

[fileone]

Thank you for the extensive info.

This is a tremendous help, and I think I have little homework to do this weekend. Perhaps, I'll have a mini stack in the air this Labor day?

Thanks again Dorsal.

Leo

[REVflyer]

My REV stack lines are made with 100 pound spectra, seven lines each between the kites.

The last kite in the stack needs about an eighth of an inch more "DOWN tuning" to lessen the oscillations. This is accomblished by shortening the bottom lines (ever so slightly too, . . . start off with them all perfectly equal!!!!)

My stack lines are free floating, so all the tension pulls upon a line that passes thru each of the endcaps as opposed to just pullin' on the kite in front. Each kite attaches to that pass-thru line.

3/5ths or 4/5ths of the leading edge length is the proportion for the stack line lengths

Many folks reinforce the front kite spars, either with stronger tubes, or by placing inserts inside the existing sticks. (for example, my baby revs are framed in 2-P skyshark tubes, but in higher winds or stacks greater than six kites we put a point 125 carbon tube INSIDE the first 3 leading edge tubes)

After tuning, (be patient, that step will take awhile) LEAVE the stack tied together.

FLY the back kite!

Man that sounds so easy, but you get distracted during the fun. The back kite has further to travel, so you can turn the front one left, whilst the last (back) kite is still going right. FLY the BACK kite!

[fileone]

Thanks for the info REVflyer. I hope to see some better wind conditions, to try out my first mini dual stack this weekend.

Your advice on reinforcing the leading edge interests me, and I was wondering if you had a good resource for spars that would fit inside to strengthen standard leading ege spars for EXP's.

[windofchange]

We have authentic Rev stack lines in stock, they are also listed on oline.

Rev Parts at A Wind Of Change dot Com

Hope this helps!

[ilh]

To stiffen up an EXP leading edge, you could put in an SLE leading edge. You would need to replace your leading edge end caps with the ones from the SLE. That is C this page.

Then again, you could just fly your SLE as the first kite.

I am assuming an SLE leading edge fits in your EXP leading edge pocket. Since you have both, you can check.

You can still use your EXP leading edge with the SLE end caps. I often use an EXP leading edge with my SLE.

--Lee

[windofchange]

The only difference between the SLE end caps and the 1/4" leading edge end caps is the black rubber washer that keeps the end cap from sliding all the way into the SLE and putting unnecessary wear on your bridle lines. The actual plastic caps are exactly the same. If you plan on changing your EXP from the standard LE to the SLE then just order in the large black rubber washers and leave them on your end caps. That way you can interchange the leading edges without any other changes.