REVflyer

You can also make the connection between two revs stronger by adding rare earth magnets to the end-caps (polarity matters though, HA!). Then when two pilots "lock-on" together, one can release the handles entirely and the other pilot assumes control of both kites, but using only one set of lines and handles. Harold Ames came up with this little addition on a cooperative project for the 1999 Smithsonian Competition. We were novice builders but won most innovative Masters award. Our sails were printed in CMYK with a solar system scene on a huge ink-jet device. Truly one of my most memorable occasions in kiting. Sony also filmed us for a high definition demo, although never got to see the final, we probably wound up on the cutting room's floor!

As usual I guess, I do the knots backwards too, just like everything else. My line length adjustments are made only on the bottoms. My top leaders are the length of the gap across the two attachment points, long throw handles have a longer leader. This way I can reach way out there for those throws and catches but still not grab the raw spectra. Having the knots on the bottoms stops some tangling when flying one handed also.

pinching the bottoms around the tube (rather than allowing them to be pulled out flat) allows the kite to accellerate faster in forward drive, although I'm not saying John does this himself. I recommend tying both ends of the elastic together and sliding the rod in-between the sail and the elastic so it will not pull thru. On customs you simply use an oh-ring and a sewn-on belt loop in place of the washers and knots (on less place to tangle a line druing slack tricks and 3D movements!)

I'm sure the office & family would support me, if I too were to be included!

I agree w/ audioRob, buy the SUL Rev, knowing that the sail and bridle are lighter in weight to begin with. Take some extra dough and buy a heavier duty leading edge, consider addding training wheels (Magix Stiks) or heavier-duty down spars also. Measure the Bridle carefully BEFORE flying it for the first time. A bridle made only of spectra will slip eventually. By knowing the correct dimensions you can fix it or replace it with Hi-Test bridle line in the 100 pound strength/size. Now your kite is lighter without sacreficing anything for more demanding wind conditions. The stock leading edge sleave in the SLE is 3.9 ounce Dacron, whereas on the SUL it's just reinforced polyester. It won't last as long that's true, but it will certainly fly better until it needs to be replaced. Use framing components to adjust for the upper wind range and various handle lengths for the lightest air likely to be encountered.

I can tell you, that if the length of the truss system tubes is too short you'll loose the advantage of magix stiks. Think about a suspension bridge. The strength comes from leverage, the tower(s) are always pretty tall compared to the span or there are multiple towers involved. A longer length gives more effect and the weight difference is barely noticable. I've seen them six and seven inches and it wasn't as strong when the wind increases or when you are flicking it around. 13 or 14 inches long has the effect you are seeking and has been around for a long time, at least on the east coast of the usa.

In the future, you can heat the fitting in a cup of boiling water (by using a micro-wave oven), it will then slide down much easier on the down spars. I recommend NOT using CA glue, because it is so brittle. One good ground impact and your stationary fitting can break loose. Instead cut a half inch of vinyl tubing and put that both above and below the fitting on the tube(s). If you want even more security you can use five minute epoxy, but I've never experienced any movement of components when combined with the vinyl tubing stoppers.

My custom rev bridles allow the kite to fly higher towards overhead, when doing the 3D catch, when compared to the stocker (I think the stock one needs to be about 70% high, to land on me without any movement). The bridle knots are reduced in size or eliminated entirely to prevent a walk-of-shame if the leading edge falls forward covering the bridle lines. All the bungie knots are covered with fabric belt-loops or I've switched to automotive oh-rings to completely remove the knots/washers/elastic. I collapse the bottom triangle of fabric where the two elastics come out to adhere to the sail. Remove the two washers and tie both loose elastic ends together, then run the down spar underneath so it can't pull thru the sail. This makes the kite excellorate faster in forward which inturn means I can fly with more down in the tuning of my long throw handles. The sail will not flutter anymore and the down spars are now stationary. Movement of these tubes makes for wasted energy in low wind conditions. This has been extensively compared by my local group of builders. That's all I can think of currently, but we have played with many variables over the years.

I practice on 65 to 70 feet, so when doing demos the fifty foot length seems so effortless. A throw of seventy feet (with a light weight kite) takes some manly effort though. Almost like throwing a javelin. I take a couple of fast/large steps towards the direction of the throw and really push off with my index finger. Here's where you'll miss the excess mass of the SLE tubes, if you are using something else. I like to throw it diagonally across the wind window and have it pasted upside down in a hover on the end of the lines. Since you already have both control handles in one hand, just leave 'em there and you'll find this is easier than it looks (aren't almost all of the REV tricks easier to do than they look like they should be?) On longer lines you have to sprint backwards as the kite is moving away from you. Sand will really screw-up you body speed, particularly that first step! I've witnessed Revs being thrown a hundred feet, but I can't do much more than about 80-85 despite years of practice.