Wayne Dowler

Using a Phoenix? They have just a bit more venting, so maybe unless seriously overpowered - use one lower sail. Instead of mid - use std. Or if everyone else is on full vents, use a mid. When I fly with my team of all Phoenixes, all is good, we all agree on a certain sail. But in my team with mixed quads, I usually try to stay a bit overpowered and use more brake in my setup.

Many know me on here as a quad flier mostly. I carry 5 different versions of the same kite, just with differing vents. I had a stroke years ago and will swap out sails in a minute, if it feels overpowered to me. I call it - "Time to get something with more holes in it!" (more venting) I'd rather be standing, than doing a "Superman" getting dragged down the beach!!!

I advise everyone to throw away any wind "ratings" by the manufacturer and use some personal caution!! Just because it says "rated to X mph" doesn't mean you should fly it in X mph! Most top ranges are way above what the "average" flier can handle, so too the lows. In the hands of an experienced piiot, yes. Learners or still not confident - no! Use caution! If it feels like too much wind - why risk it!

Forgot to add - yes, both ends of the line go in opposite directions, but they do that coming out of the center (inside) of the knot. So the loops bind each other tight. Another that holds until released.

Also - don't ruin the vinyl cap when removing the hog ring, unless you have new ones to replace them with. I use a stout pair of needle nose pliers to open the ring WIDE for removal. Then use one of the existing holes to pull out the leaders, turning them 90* from where they were. a good anchor comes with a flange that covers the handle tube completely - no wear on leaders. If you use the screws in the prepackaged kit, I chuck them in a drill and use a file to knock down the last few threads, again to cut down wear. First set took me maybe an hour, probably can do them in 30 minutes or so now.

Step 2 - the fitting knot. You could start with using a "clove hitch" around the bulge in the fitting. you will know that it is right when you get the lines going out in opposite directions. Think - loop with the free end under, then another loop with the free end under. If right, the ends should go in opposite directions. you can use this on the fitting end and by trial and error, find the length that lets you get the fitting on, but with proper tension to the sail. Then you just have to throw another hitch or two on, and dress up the end to your satisfaction!

You will know it is right if it won't move without you undoing it. Did tree work once upon a time, and used that knot extensively, even trusting my life to it while tree climbing. If you get the starting loop correct, there's an old saying that helps you remember - with the free end in hand - "the rabbit goes out the hole, around the tree, and back into the hole." Pull tight from both ends. This should form a loop that will not come loose til you undo it.

Any knot that isn't a slip type knot should work to form the loop. Know a bowline knot? Forms a loop that holds til the cord breaks!! Hard to explain, actually easy to do. Holds like forever or until you release it. How it is attached to the fitting is a little unclear even with the pic.

So looking at the pic - the cord is tied in a loop on the sail and tied to the fitting that goes over the end of the spar or at least gets trapped in there. So retie that loop on the sail. If there is any hole in the cap, thread it through and see if you can determine how tight the tension would be. Tie off accordingly. If there is no hole, It looks to be placed thru the notch and tied above that bulge. Again try determining the proper tension and tie off. Either way might mean some trial and error.. Rob might have more info ....

Oh ROB .......!!

Easy, peasy to do. Does grow the length overall by about a 1/2" or so. I modded mine before I got too used to a certain length. But the amount really isn't that much to throw off mere mortals!! But BEWARE : there is a nasty burr of metal under those seemingly harmless vinyl caps. It will lay you open if not careful with it!!!! Deburr before reassembly!!!

That is one way!! The other is to do the "Watty mod" and get rid of the rings. Personally it is one more moving part I don't need. I modded my regular handles, and switched to snagless several years ago. Think direct drive over a mushy power steering!!

Carbon wrapped outdoor handles or indoor handles??

Good luck hiding them!!! LOL!!! Pix of how long the cord is and a pic of the cap might help. Last I got from Prism (Ozone and Alien) had "O" rings to tension the sail!!

Sorry - no sale!!!!

Indoor Rev handles are "only" 14"!! And my son's Rev II had 9" handles stock with it. None of those fit my needs!!!! LOL!!

I had gotten mine from Mikey D. (same person makes JB's dogstake) and one set needed a little ream to fit the JB leaders. Just a hair size bigger made all the difference. It was only a 1/32" change? Not much.....

The EXP frame is just a 3 wrap with different labels and is exactly what comes in all the 1.5 sized kites - Reflex not included. So any 1.5 vented sail will work - SLE, "B", EXP, in any configuration.

Just checked - does yours come with 50' x 50# lines? I'd give that a go before trying shorter. Remember - the shorter the line, the less time to react. Things happen really fast on short lines!! And remember this - if there is no way out of a problem - DON'T PULL, GIVE TO THE KITE! Pulling just drives the kite faster! If aimed at the ground - BOOM! Give it slack, take steps forward, let the kite gently fall. At least you don't get a broken kite! Rather to have to set it back up, than to go home. Give!!!

Might be too late Rob - sounds like she ordered already!!

I have an old 3-D, great little car kite. Used to fly it in the parking lot at work during lunch! If the 4-D is anything like it, it will be happy on 30'ish lines and reasonably light winds. Gentle inputs!! And if it starts shaking or shuddering as it goes through the power zone - might be time to put it away!

Never have broken down an LE once I put my kite together. Got some here that have been together for over 20 years. Yes they're longer, but so? Unless the room is needed for other reasons - why?

Doesn't the Quantum have a Velcro strip holding the spine at the bottom? Make a loop of bridle weight line to put over it and attach the tail to it. Take it off when not using it for a cleaner look.

Think "O" rings on the spars, against the caps, Should be a tight fit to spars and overlap outside of cap! Has reduced my sand problem here out West to almost zero! Works on any quad or rod.

I'm not a big "pull or twist" type, but a thumb pusher! I like to hold my spar as close to the fitting as possible, then use my thumb to push the spar out of the connector. Feels like I have more control over how fast or when the spar comes loose. And no bouncy rebound either. But like everything kite related - it's all about what you feel comfortable with doing! YMMV!