Adjustable handles...

[REVflyer]

I measure across the gap between the two attachment points, but you must be very SPECIFIC when ordering or you will not get what you desire!

My favorite handles are almost 17 inches across the gap, (but I live in the land of no wind, so making a custom set was quite necessary). They are long, light in weight and exceptionally strong.

You can see a picture of them down at the bottom of this link. One of my young apprentices is demonstrating. < http://www.wowkiteclub.com/tarara.htm >

I'm very pleased to see the factory and sponsored fliers recognize the advantages of going even a little bit longer then the old stockers.

[ant man]

nice handles those must have some good reverse

[REVflyer]

Those titanium handles back-up even better in Scottie Weider's hands though (HA!) Light weight and very strong they've been run-over by the park service vehicles on the DC/national mall.

There's so much REVERSE possible, you can flick the kite inverted anywhere in the window, facing in any direction. I'm working on "quarter-turns flicks" right now.

I generally fly early in the mornings when there's no wind on 60 ft lines, many times in a parking lot to insure solid footing. A big stride, with a yank & spank style, . . . don't stand too close to me!

Imagine how much easier flying one-handed would be, if your had lots of throw length, just a little flick on the top of either handle adds your inputs (I balance the two handles on an index finger). Long handles are pretty useless in a steady 10-15 mph breeze off of the ocean, just too sensitive. Where I live, they are required at least six months of the year.

PS: I have an even longer set for dead-still air, they almost drag on the ground (19 inches across the gap)! Combined with the right kite & tuning though you can fly standing pretty much stationary. Since you have so very much action available in your handles you can do slow, graceful axels, throws & catches, killer floats and inverted slides. All without moving your feet. People frequently ask us how we can fly without any wind.

[Jason Paul]

Wow - I haven't been here in a couple of weeks and missed all of this!

I also measure across the gap rather than around the curve. Since different handles have different angles of curvature, measuring across the gap makes sense to me.

My homemade handles measure about 14.5" across the gap.

For leaders, most would consider mine looooong. They're probably around 18" on the top, and a little shorter on the bottom. However, I only have 5-6 knots on the top and two on the bottom. I made them this long for catches and throws, so I'd be grabbing dacron rather than spectra. Also, the entire length of the leaders is not doubled. I essentially have a loop at the handle end that is larksheaded onto the handle. This makes the leaders lighter and makes for smaller knots.

Jason

[REVflyer]

I determine the top leader length by insuring it will not reach all the way across the gap (potential tangle point!), then shortening the bottoms until the kite willl back-up from an inverted position on the ground. Add another knot an inch longer (on the bottom leaders) than my preference for teaching and that's it, all done.

I also like longish top leaders, 'cause that extra reach makes "catches" much easier and better looking. I've been burned twice in competitions though, by the "too long top leaders" tangling-up with the bottom flying lines during slack line tricks. Since shortening to less than the gap I've had no more crash & burns due to equipment.

[Jason Paul]

Yup Paul, I break your rule by exceeding the gap with my leaders.

I don't compete, and I don't really do quick slack-line tricks like axels, 540s, etc. My only slack-line tricks are catches and throws. With catches, the extra length isn't a problem. With throws, in the time that the kite is gliding out to the end of the lines, I pull the handles apart while the line is slack, just by spreading my arms a bit. This generally pulls any tangles out of the leaders/handles before the kite reaches the end of the lines.

I probably wouldn't rely on that in competition though, as I'm sure that would be the time it didn't work.

Jason

[REVflyer]

Here's a new thing to work on Jason.

When you do the throw both handles are in one hand already, so leave 'em there! Now the kite will go steady/straight in the direction of the throw, so push your handle/thumb forward (add REVERSE) and have the kite paste itself inverted at the end of the lines. It's rock steady down there and it looks great.

Practice your throws "not directly down wind" but instead thrown across the window so it winds up on the opposite edge, inverted and pasted all from your one hand. (learn your weaker hand first!)

Eventually you and a partner can "cross the streams" w/one kite's lines over the top of the other. You guys are throwing an x-shape, this looks magnificient in no wind, so slow and graceful. Since there's no wind you guys separate and do a 360, each going in the opposite direction. You fly all the way around each other and finish back where you started.

Felling extra cocky today?, .... try to throw your kite in between the lines of your partner (intentionally nesting them?!??). Then you have to fly them apart. You will not make this look good for many sessions, but the laughter and entertainment value is worth the effort.

Competition isn't about winning (at least to me!) It's about putting on a good show for the gang who attends. After the first couple of comps, those other gals & guys will be your friends or acquiantances. Let them know "the unexpected" is your speciality! You can't win without some risks, executed well, ... so a throw & catch or some other risky manuever should become a routine part of the effort.