Wayne Dowler

On my street rig I did something similar to sacrificial loops, but slightly different. When my bridle wore out at an end cap, I trimmed the old bridle down to the knot for the loop. Tested it to be sure it would hold under load. Then made loops long enough to replace the originals and larksheaded them on using the knot still on the bridle. Seemed that all the wear was occurring at the loops, why replace a whole bridle? Cheap but effective fix.

If you plan on getting pre-made lines, there are 3 I know of - LPG, Skybond, or the line from OSK. Used all 3. LPG is best IMHO, tight weave, reasonably slippery, decent lasting. Skybond is very slippery to start, but as the coating wears, not so much. It also has a bit more "bunjii" feel to it. OSK line is good stuff, using it right now. A little less expensive than the others, but durable enough to handle the beating I give it in team flying. Not bad for the price. Let me qualify this somewhat: I'm a serious team flier that eats lines. Some years go through 2 sets. Good lines are your only connection to the kite. Get what is reasonable to your situation. But yes, 90# (or in Skybond 100#) is the way to go. 50# is for days of almost no winds.

I had a friend make a special winder that lets you bunjii the handles down, then wind to the kite. He actually put 2 bunjiis on it - one for handles, one for lines. Works great at festivals for clearing the field fast, then setting it back up to fly for performances. I only uae it as a temporary thing, I like regular winding at the end of the day. These were the basis, my friend expanded on the idea. Never did like the handle wrap myself....

I think you have it with the plug method and really anything else is over thinking it. Unless you really want to tinker. I think you will find that these that you have nodded, are all you really need.

That should fit - but those frames (Reflex) are a larger diameter tube and will not mix with any of the older frame parts. Depends too on the fittings used, if they accept that frame. Anything Reflex should accept Reflex frames of the same size. Edit: The EXP is in the 1.5 sized family. Rev is using 5/16" tubes for that Reflex system. Older tubes were 1/4" and won't fit if mixed. Old frames should still fit, but won't have the Reflex system. So it's sorta one or the other. And it depends on the fittings too. The new are setup for the 5/16" rods, the old for 1/4". I believe they do have a fitting that will accept both, not sure how available they are?

Only needs to be 1" strap and sewn 1/8" in from edges. I would leave the bottom open to let out sand. Use a hot knife or the equivalent to cut the strip and prevent fray.

Wind it up using a "Windbreaker"!?!?

My knee would definitely not like that setup walk! And God help if you need to do the "walk of shame"!

Looking good!!!

Polyester material is what you ideally want. Coated to be windproof, it makes great sails. Also known as "Icarex" or Icky for short. The other material used is nylon. Porous, can get waterlogged easier, stretches more. Usually on lesser quality sails. The pattern in the pic you included is the old "SLE" sail pattern.

Paul - "from Jon" - does that mean he is carrying them or sewing them? I know the EXP line has gone back and forth over materials.

OK, lots here: 65' is OK. The kite actually doesn't fly faster, just runs out of "window" faster. The shorter the faster that "window" gets used up. Having a set of 120's is a good choice for extras. And yes, as they wear, you can cut them down. The frame is marked EXP, but is actually a 3 wrap. Kinda the middle of the road frame. If you need more info on frames - ask. Just know that all 1.5 frames will interchange in any 1.5 sail. And there are lots! Learn what the wind window represents. That dictates the room needed to fly SAFELY! Never over anyone! Find a safe spot. Usually that window is a half circle (180*) with the wind to your back. That is a little big, but establish your safe zone based on that. Get a stake! Helps with unwinding lines, rest times, rewinding. Also works to check the lines for equalizing - See JB's tutorials!! ALWAYS park your kite upside down!!! If upwards, anyone walking through, will snag a line and the kite can launch. Upside down, the kite is trying to fly alright - straight into the ground! More safety!!! Throw out all the recommended wind ranges and rely on your feel! If you think the wind is too strong - it probably is! I would really ask you to think of adding a vented sail to your collection. Many used are out there, it doesn't have to be new. But it will make flying in strong winds much more enjoyable, than trying to control a full sail. Usually a full sail (your EXP) and something vented, cover most conditions! Spot on with the handles - get or make long leaders JB sells them here pre-tied or you can make your own. Just make sure that you make your knots as evenly spaced as you can and both leaders as identical as possible. JB's wife, TK, uses a jig, that's why theirs are so accurate! Strongly consider! Whew - I'm done!

Yep - the stake method is good. Stake down both lines and then see a side by side comparison.. You do this in a yard (if room), a field, or the beach. But I would suggest it before your next flight. It is possible that everyone is putting strain on one line by being a certain "handed" right or left, but comparing length while still hooked to the kite might throw you off. After shortening the long line, try switching to see if the other stretches too. JB has a great tutorial on line equalizing for quads - same applies to dual line kites too.

http://kitelife.com/2011/12/01/issue-81-hydrodynamics-and-kites/ Should have answers to most of your questions in this ....

So you have found a stash - eh?

I made several sets of guts after buying one. Got all the hardware to match the one set of handles that came with it. Think I had 3 sets of innards ...

Windbreaker -

Rob - Carey winders are very much like the Windbreakers, but without movable handles. I had thought of one for rolling up a long tail! But no one carries them anymore. Think they went out of business years ago. You find any - they were in the back hiding under something!!! Or folks just passed them by. Use to come in 2 sizes - small and large.

You can use Motorola radios, I use Uniden. But the majority are on Midlands. We only use the main channels, no privacy ones. Too many radios have ever so slightly different frequencies, that we don't use them. The low power channels are open to use, but expect some traffic on #9 - emergency channel. I think it is 7 - 14 open, all the rest you're supposed to be licensed. You are more than welcome to try it, at least on the line. But be ready to ditch it if it causes issues. Still need to hang that radio off your belt or put it in a pocket, the Bluetooth range is only about 30' max (at least that's what is advertised). Can't leave it in the truck or car! And be aware - you can't have an open broadcast circuit if not calling! The way these circuits work is to "lock" the leader's into transmit only. 2 on transmit will lead to squeal and feedback for everyone else on the line! Even one on the VOX setting will feedback if the leader has their circuit open. So only the lead is "open", all the rest are listening. Again not sure how the Bluetooth circuit would be compatible ....? YMMV!

Most radios don't have Bluetooth capability. Unless the Bluetooth has some plug in unit for the radio.

Gotta remember too - I have a slightly different bend in my handles. Already got a bit of extra brake built in, by them being a bit flatter. But I see what you mean .....I try to stay relatively low with my hands, but still find them creeping up at times! Old habits!!

Ain't that the truth!!!!

Always trying this, but never knew the WHY of it. Makes perfect sense. As you lower your hands, I tend to turn the handles out - and - push my thumbs forward - and get smoother reverse! Hot damn!! Russ - I don't think the Phoenix is any more susceptible to wing flip than a "B"pro, made by the same guy! In over a year of flying them - no problems here. (although I also have some magic sticks stuck on my Ashes as a test! Just did it the other day! Results to follow!) SHHH!!!

Any videos from this? Links? Seems to have gotten lost on my FB! I know there was something floating around ....!

I don't know for sure about how it affects reverse, but I do know you need enough drive to stay up with everyone. Going one sail stronger and a bit more break, gives you that drive. You can cheat that reversing back to ball! Slide if you need to. Or fly forward and reverse as you get there. Just try to match speeds with everyone and most won't notice. Then you can work on it and come back confident. What is really important is the hover! Being able to hold one in any position. It all comes together as you spend more time on the lines.