Winding Quad Lines!!

[Guru4tru]

Hey, I found it!!

Posted by "Kitelife: 1 september 2009 @ Rev. site:

Keep It Up!

Duane

===================================

There has been a lot of discussion regarding line winding methods, most particularly minimizing the twists or tangles in your lines as you set up your kite each time.

I've tried everything over the years... Halo spools on a drill (fast wind), two winders, one winder, winding on the handles, tying pairs together, tying all four together, straight wind, figure eight wind... In my experience, nothing I've tried thus far compares with the method we've used religiously on iQuad over the past 3 years... We don't even think about our lines anymore, except which weight or length to use. <grin>

Three minutes to set up, three minutes to tear down... No more 20-30 minute untangling sessions.

==

Here's the formula for a reliable one-winder affair, starting with your kite leading edge down, staked at the top of the handles (i.e. secure on the ground) and no more than a 1/2 twist in the lines:

1. At the kite end, disconnect the left lines, then larks head your top line onto the bottom line's sleeving and slide it down to the knot... This should leave the bottom line effectively pulled out further than the top line (I'll explain this later).

2. Repeat the same technique with the right side, then put both sets in one hand so you have the two bottom loops together like two lines, with both top lines attached at the knot(s) on the bottom line sleeving.

3. Although all four lines are in one hand now, you should only be holding the bottom loops in your fingers as you place those two onto the notch in your winder.

3. Wind straight or figure eight, doesn't make a single bit of difference in twisting... It only effects your winding motion, and how the line sits on the winder... I very much prefer a straight wind as it tends to be neater, and I can fit more line into less space on the winder.

** NOTE: You've now attached your bottom loops to the winder, without twisting them prior... As you wind, the winder is NOT rotating or twisting in any way, it's only going to move up and down, in and out, as you make your way to the handles... Simply, there are no twists thus far in the process, it's literally impossible because nothing rotates. (part 2 in the next section)

4. As you finish winding and are approaching the handles, wind down to ground so as not to lift the handles which might allow them to spin (twist)... As you pick up the handles, they should fairly well fold right over the winder so you can strap the whole thing down (securely).

** NOTE: Again I'll point out that the loops (kite end) haven't rotated, and the handles haven't rotated either, not significantly anyway... Ergo, no excessive twists, literally impossible because you've in theory brought the four points at either end together, spooling the line cleanly in-between... You might end up with a twist or two as you inadvertently allow one pair (R or L) to twist somewhere, go through each other once, or perhaps at the handle end.

** NOTE 2: The reason the handles are probably going to fold over the winder so nicely is the fact that we first staggered the top and bottom lines at the kite end before winding... We pulled the bottom lines out further (by 4"-6") which conversely pulled the bottom of the handles forward at the other end, setting the handles up for a neat fold over at the end.

** NOTE 3: I typically leave my handles on, but if you must remove yours, be sure to reverse the method you used at the kite end... Instead, you'll be larks heading the BOTTOM lines onto the top lines, so the tops are extending further out, opposite of the other end, taking out most of the slack (uneven lengths) in the lines.

** NOTE 4: Using this method correctly, it should be impossible for a twist or tangle to form that would warrant disconnecting one line and worming it out, shouldn't EVER be necessary, because again, we've worked with fixed pairs and non-rotation at either end, you should be able to get any twist out simply by rotating the handles together, individually, or putting one through the other every now and then... Disconnecting a line generally causes more trouble than it solves, unless you're working with a real pile of spaghetti.

==

Setting up:

1. Stick a stake in the ground.

2. Unstrap your winder, place the TOP of your handles onto the stake (like locking the kite in forward) and walk downwind with the winder in a position that allows it to rock freely (but secure in your hand)... Everything should pop-pop-pop-pop right off, all the way to the end.

3. Take the loops off your winder and put one in each hand, pulling some tension into the lines and spreading your arms to centralize the (apparent) twists a little, but don't try too hard... Working with one side first, separate one pair (top and bottom R or L), then attach to the kite, repeat with the other side.

** NOTE: DO NOT muck with what you think are twists yet, just hook up the kite, place it leading edge down on the ground and walk back to the handles.

4. Picking up your handles carefully so as not to accidentally launch, then waggle one brake line (watching for one side of the kite to wiggle) in order to identify your R/L handles and arrange them accordingly.

5. Now, using the handles, draw tension into all four lines with a conscious mind on your control of the kite... 90%-95% of what appeared to be twists should cancel each other out, leaving 1-3 twists, shouldn't be any more than this if you've done everything right.

==

I generally teach this one in person, but figured it was time to break it down thoroughly for those who rely on forum information between events.

Post back here, share your successes or failures with this method, I'll be happy to clarify if prompted.

John Barresi

www.teamiquad.com

www.kitelife.com

"We cannot direct the wind, but we can adjust the sails."

(found in a fortune cookie)

.

0

[John Barresi]

Aye, that's a winner.

Thanks for cross-posting it Duane!

[Guru4tru]

I mentioned that the greatest thing I learned a TISKC was to set-up, knock-down and rest my Rev. upside-down. And I mentioned that the "experts" must have forgot to tell me that.

Well, I have to admit that "I was wrong!!" The "experts" did mention that--I just didn't pick up on it.

Yesterday, when I was reading JB's quad line winding post so I could change the way I've been winding my lines ("If you want to be a Master...Do what the Masters do!")...there it was ...plan and simple...right in front of my eyes...instructions on how to set the Rev. up...In the first sentence, no less..."leading edge down"! Somehow I read it before and it didn't register in my aging brain. But, I got it now!

Sorry 'bout that!

Keep It Up!

Duane

[Baloo]

It is those little Grey cells Duane.

Older you get, longer they take to fire.

I am SO glad Kite flying keeps me young

[Guru4tru]

It is those little Grey cells Duane.

Older you get, longer they take to fire.

I am SO glad Kite flying keeps me young

What do you mean Baloo...you are young!!

Wait till you become part of the over 60 flyers...then you can say that!

Keep It Up!

Duane

[Hedgewarden]

One eensie weensie pickie on the winding method:

If you wind straight around (not figure 8) there will be one twist for each revolution. This is what I learned as a novice dual flier. Impatient to unwind, I just dropped the handle (remember those little plastic handles they start you with before straps?), and held the line as the winder rotated to the ground. Exactly one twist resulted for each of the (seemingly) 2000+ turns. Thus, the going to the figure 8 winding method.

HOWEVER, the pickie does not count if you unwrap as explained (the same way you unwrap from a figure 8 wrap), holding the line card so it does not rotate. The single twist/wrap is so trivial, it might as well not be there. And is complete canceled when unwinding.

I like the straight wrap now - about 8-10 straight turns followed by a figure 8 turn or two (as JB mentioned). The several interspersed figure 8s seem to keep the turns locked more neatly. And the straight turns do not slide off the winder as easily, causing tangles because some lines are out-of-sync with others. Again, maybe the interspersed figure 8 winds help synchronize and avoid that type of tangle.

Any-hoo, try it if you haven't yet. iQuad is sharing a great tip.