Wayne Dowler
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Posts posted by Wayne Dowler
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but the "Darkside" offers milk and cookies!!!!
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Dacron is sold mostly for SLKs, in many strengths and lengths.
Lines are the only "Physical" connection to the kite!!!!
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Stay away from polyester, nylon, or dacron lines for stunt kites. Stick to spectra lines - LPG (Laser Pro Gold), Shanti Speed, or Shanti SkyBond. Andy at Ocean Shores Kites also markets his own brand - (still spectra). Good kite line is expensive because of the material used and the quantity needed. The weave is much tighter in good line, giving you a better connection to the kite. Poor quality lines almost feel like it takes forever to get the kite to do what you asked of it.
Just remember - your lines are the only connection you have to the kite - don't skimp on them!!
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3 hours ago, Paul LaMasters said:
from tension on the lines and leading edge of kite facing up-right,...... thumbs up, step back, lower your hands, hold the handles softer and closer together too. Relax, this is fun, breath, learn the cartwheel technique first so you can roll-over from inverted.
only four moves are possible,.. 1 both thumbs @ nose= forward (NOT up),
2 both thumbs @kite=reverse (NOT down)
3, one thumb @nose =clockwise rotation (not a left turn!)
4, other thumb @nose=counter-clockwise rotation (not right turn)
So the kite doesn't go up and down, and it can't go left or right, the controls are minor influence to major impact at the kite. Try softer,... and add in some body position movements and your feet don't have to be stationary either!
you'll love the quads because they can fly anywhere anytime any conditions,... you just gotta want it bad enough!
for some reason I'm thinking this was meant somewhere else??
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If learning, I would suggest that the lines be long - 60' - 80'. Reaction time for the flier increases with longer lines. Put the kite on short lines and everything happens at light speed! Are your flying skills up to that challenge?
PS: the kite doesn't go any faster on short lines, but covers the wind window in no time. Therefore giving the appearance of going faster!
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The major reason I'm on there was because of kiting. So much more info and discussion of events. But as it is, has become more than that now. It has become my social outlet. Good or bad, not sure.
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Old black race frames have only a silver label and say race. Newer race frames have a green band at the top and bottom of the silver label. As was said - not sure if they are being made now, or if everything has shifted to the 5/16" rods (Reflex system).
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May I make this suggestion:
Move your race frame to the standard and the 3 wrap to the full vent. Reason: You never know what the winds are like at the bottom of the wind range and I feel the race frame is a little more versatile. You know if the wind is up and a F/V, 3 wrap combo, should work pretty well. All IMHO!
I tend to use frame/sail combos, rather than frame changes, especially on the beach in windy conditions. I have favorite setups for each sail and will switch sails rather than frames. Just what works for me ....YMMV!
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16 mph = FV with 3 wrap frame.
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Lived in Rhode Island as a kid, I've seen the damage they can do. Stay safe!
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Has anyone tried 3 or 4 wrap Rev rods in those caps? The ones that Bazzer uses are metric and will not use Rev rods in the 3 or 4 wrap size. You might get them on, but almost impossible to get off. 3 or 4 wraps will fit if you take a 5/16" drill bit and carefully ream them out. No issues with SkyShark.
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From the pix it looks like it might be several things.
1 - Your wingtip tension is uneven. Is it possible you've tightened one side more than the other? If it came that way, try undoing the tips and re tension after making sure you have all spars fully in place. Do not overtighten! You are trying to get rid of most of the creases, but don't pull so tight it adds more.
2 - Is it possible the top spreader is too short? It should hold the top of the sail out fully, yours looks a bit "collapsed". None of my dual line kites show this kind of "wear", and they are 15 to 20 years old. Massage the nose to get the spine and LE to properly line up, then put in the top spreader and see if it will help hold shape. Remember to fully insert spreader.
3 - Measure from both the top and bottom of the leading edge to confirm that the fittings for both sides of the top and bottom spreaders are the same distance on the leading edge. If off, they would contribute to the asymmetric look of your sail.
Just some ideas to check ....
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The trick line does not need to be tight, just snug. I have one on my Flexifoil Stranger that is that way. It is from the mid '90s. My trick line lays in a nock for the sail tensioner. Trick line first, tensioner second, that way the tensioner holds it down.
Don't retie the bridle - there should be a mark on it indicating "neutral". You should be able to slide your bits up or down, using the mark as an indicator of how far you have moved. Closer to the nose to pull forward, closer to the tail to lean it back.
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Sounds like too far out on top. Still need some drive. Most find their sweet spot somewhere near the middle of the top leader.
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I'd echo makatakam - learn a bit of control and how the kite works, before going short. Once you get sure of yourself, there are lots of choices on length.
Personally I like 50', close enough to fit in most places, but still has a pretty big window to fly in. I really like them on my Zen. But that is a bigger kite than the 1.5. 30' is another common length, probably the most often used. I even have 20' and 15' sets for no room flying. Lots of old sets get chopped down to make more. You will see.
Indoors, I fly 10' x 90# by choice. Little extra weight of the 90# helps get the lines out of the way during some tricks.
My set of 50# x 120' were made by me. I bought a spool of 900' and made several sets from that. But do your math before you start chopping!! Figure out the length needed for each set, before you cut!
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For those that don't have the circuit - here is one possible solution - especially on small lines:
I'm looking into a voice amp, similar to those used by tour guides or professors in lecture halls. Comes with a headset ( wired or bluetooth), a small amp/speaker, and a strap. Speaker can be clipped to the belt or pocket, worn over the shoulder, or around the waist, depending on how you configure the strap. Also can be used as a speaker for your device. Many models on Amazon.
One of my teams uses one and easily carries down the 4 person line, sometimes 5 or 6. Not sure how many deep it will carry ....... but it might be an alternative ....?
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My only question is - even though the caller's VOX circuit is off too? I'm not 100% sure on how the radio is set up, but I don't think they are using the VOX circuit.
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24 minutes ago, makatakam said:
If you take two plastic cups and stretch a string between them . . . . . 😂
Only works if you can put the string through the heads of those in between the caller and tailgunner!
I think this got off track: Let me get back to some ideas or at least what I know:
This all was done several years ago as an inexpensive way to have good communication with all parties on a line - no matter how big it gets. We have used this in small teams, right up to the last giant grid formation of 81 (9x9) pilots at WSIKF! It is easy for a team to collectively change to a different channel, if the one selected is being used. 2 circuits open on a single channel cause feedback and neither line hears anything. So one team switches to an unused channel and everyone is happy. This also works great if you ground crew for a team. Many times I dial in the channel of the team flying and the leader can talk to me if there is a crash. Also at some festivals, the announcer can also dial in and put the radio next to the mic and let everyone listen in to the calls made. It does work effectively, I'm not questioning that.
The circuit as constructed works to open the transmit function, whether you have music going through it or not. That was my original question: could we could lose the mixing part, still lock the radio in transmit, but shorten the thing down. As constructed, most of these circuits are too long, especially if you no longer use the mixing part. It's a pain to put in a pocket or let dangle - just too much.
Midland radios seem to have a proprietary 2 prong plug in - I'm guessing that one is for transmit, one for receiving. The circuit as made now uses just one side. The leader only wears a headset for calling commands to the rest of the line. The rest of the line uses the channel selected and closes any VOX setting. This way only the leader's headset is live. Everyone else is listening to the calls.
Because of the 2 separate circuits, Midlands seem to be the leader's radio of choice. I have Unidens, I like the limited menu tree and layout of controls, but because of the single input, the circuit doesn't work for me. I have used the VOX feature on them, no matter how sensitive I set them, they always seem to open and close and cut my commands off somewhere. This is not a good option - period.
So back to the original idea - to all you electronic buffs - can the circuit as described in the original article - be altered to still lock the transmit circuit open, but lose the mixer and overall shorten it?
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Undependable. Many radios have shapes that don't allow a good tight fit. Or like my Unidens that have the headset jack directly across from the transmit button. Last thing you need is your caller to have their radio go dead during a routine, because the band slipped or broke.
There is nothing "wrong" with the circuit as presently constructed, just looking to see if it can be modified somewhat. Eliminate an unneeded function and shrink the overall size.
As I mentioned, I have 0 electronic background, and my stroke makes me dangerous with a soldering iron in my hand.
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Sorry all the Bluetooth stuff is undependable and very expensive. Not sure on battery life either or how it would hold up under the conditions usually found. Plus there is no discrimination of units. If anyone says anything they will drown out the caller, Every Bluetooth unit is open to both listen and receive. As you noted, the original circuit is inexpensive and has no power requirements. Right now, if you are "on" using the same channel, and there are 2 radios locked in transmit, there will be feedback. This is easily dealt with, by one party switching channels.
What I was asking is can the "splitter" idea be eliminated, get rid of the music mixer, and enough electronics kept, to just lock the caller's radio in transmit mode? Just the plug going into a radio and a plug in for the headset, and the needed electronics in between, and make it as short as possible. Sort of like locking the VOX circuit open - but full time. See, the VOX feature on radios, leaves much to be desired. The circuit to transmit with VOX, usually opens about halfway through your command. Meaning your line mates miss out on a bunch of the commands. I know because using a different brand, has forced me to use the feature - it is not a viable solution. VOX was an example, not how it worked in reality.
Having just one leader's radio locked open to transmit, with the least amount of hanging stuff, is the idea.
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A couple of thoughts on this overall:
I really encourage the use of good rechargeable batteries, instead of the provided battery packs. I use Uniden radios and found a 12 pack of "AAA" rechargeables and a good charger for them on Amazon. Why? I looked on the battery packs and found that they were about 1/2 the power of the rechargeable ones. Mine uses 3 "AAA" batteries, Midlands use 4 "AA" batteries. The leader of one of the teams I'm on, uses the high power rechargeables and his radio easily lasts all day calling. On the line as a listener, mine last for several days. With a 12 pack, I always carry an extra set with me - just in case mine die!
Anyway my original question is-can someone shrink this circuit down way smaller to just a plug in for the radio, electronics needed, and a plug for the headset, eliminating the music mixing wire and plug??
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Let me see if I can find it ... if so I"ll edit this to include the link.
http://kitelife.com/2012/07/31/radio-equipment-for-team-flying/
Think this is it, if not, it is under articles, team flying - here on KL!!
Link works!!!
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Got a question for all you experienced electronics buffs:
Several years ago, we had an article on how to make a caller's circuit. Came with a diagram and I think some pix. It was designed to lock the caller's radio in transmit mode and had a plug in to mix music into it. The result works pretty well.
Here is my question:
Many of us have gone to using a Bluetooth speaker for the music. It can be aimed at the line and also provide a "home" for the team's movement. So - the question is: Can the circuit be made smaller, with no extra wires? Just a plug for going into the radio and a plug in for your headset and whatever needed electronics in between? Something say 6" long or so, instead of the tangle of wires we have now?
Disclaimer: I have no electronics background, just experience using them with my teams. I'm looking for a "cleaner" setup over what we use now. Don't know if it is possible or ...?? ANYONE??
First flight
in General Sport Kite
Posted
Rather "high" altitude ya got there.........lol!!!