Help with some BASICS

[Bred]

I'm going through Dodd's flight school training right now. I'm suuuuper green when it comes to dual line framed kites.

I'm flying a prism hypnotist with the included lines and webbing handles.

Punch turns are no problem. Pull and combination turns are no problem. I can take the kite from the ground in a belly down, nose away orientation into a short fade, then roll it over onto its front side to fly away. I have decent control...

So why do I always over-rotate my snap stalls and spin stalls? Any time I actually stall the kite, it's over rotated.

Thoughts? Tips?

[TubaKite]

Could be your inputs are to big/strong, or that your bridle could use adjusting. Try sliding the adjustment knots towards the tail off the kite in small increments, that should make the turns a little less responsive. Check out other videos as well, the more you see, the more sense it will make. Lastly, practice. It may take time, but it will eventually happen, just be patient.



Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using KiteLife mobile app

[makatakam]

However, that should make going into a slide much easier. Make adjustments to achieve a balance between the two extremes that is comfortable.

[Exult]

Trimming the nose towards you or away from you angle by changing the attachments points of the lines on the bridle e.g., affects how easily the kite turns/rotates for a certain input when pulling one of the lines e.g.. Trimming the kite so that the nose gets further away from you makes the kite turn more easily. It also makes it easier to maintain a stall. The ease of maintaining the stalls by nose away trim is valid to a certain point when the kite gets too prone to sink while stalled, especially towards the edges of the wind window. When overdoing the nose away from you, the kite might also be difficult to start from the ground.

Except for the very lightest winds (when maintaining a stall is not so much of a problem anyway), try to trim the kite nose away until you start to miss the forward drive. Now much less input to the snap stall is required and maintaining the stall is easier. That should enable you to do the snap stall (or anything else that involves a stall) with more control. Play with the trimming until you get an idea of how it works. If not well marked, make sure that there is a way to return to the initial trimming first.

In the Prism videos (from about the same time as the @Dodd Gross HQ VHS cassettes ( had them all)) I remember that they recommended to do the two inputs of the snap stall very quickly. There Mark Reed snapped his left and right hand fingers (representing the right/left tugs on the lines during a snap stall) with less and less time between until you hardly heard that there were two individual snaps any longer. Perhaps this soon input of the second tug could stop the kite from over rotating?

OK, to the over rotating spin stalls… hmm… can’t think of something else than stop the turning input (the pulling on the line that makes the kite spin) a bit earlier.