Leaderboard

We're pleased to yet again announce the next prize being given away to our most appreciated supporters, the Kitelife Subscribers... For roughly 10 cents per day they play a major role in keeping KL growing in every way. Djinn XT from Kite Forge, $475 value, in these UNIQUE COLORS! This is brand new, unflown, colors that were made in error for a customer and is now going home with one of our loyal subscribers! == == Full info - https://kiteforge.com/djinn More videos - https://kiteforge.com/videos/ This package includes a Hot Fade XT (EXTRA VENT) sail, Mystic 18 frame and a kite sleeve! NOTE: This is exactly the same Djinn XT configuration that I fly myself - no special mods needed, it's already a boss right out of the bag. You can sign up here. Odds of winning for this prize is currently 1/358, and will be drawn on Juuly 20th, 2024! Our thanks, and the very best to you... Let the drooling begin

Just received and installed my KIteForge leaders last night! I am super stoked, I ordered a pair of JB 13" handles with the leads installed and 2 other leaders sets to modify my Rev handles. Installation was easy, pulled the factory rubber caps from rev, untied the stock lines and then used a sew-all needle to pull the new leaders back through the cap - it took some time and patience to get the knots parallel and equal on both handles but I couldn't be happier. More adjustment overall and a bunch more positions to fine tune! Can't wait to try them out with my new short lines! Thanks John!

3D Printing Example Here is an example of a problem that I solved making a part with my 3D printer. I’ve been in the process of getting ready to go to Long BeachWA the week of August 17th to enjoy some time away with my wife and some good wind and hopefully some good company of other kite flyers. Anyway, I had a long list of things to repair and check to get ready. After I repaired my kite and assembled it, I was bothered by one thing I never liked about the Rev LE; the rods on the ends droop below the LE pocket and don’t support it. This isn’t ideal in low wind. One morning I was walking and thinking and this idea came to my head. An hour later it was a reality. -Segel

I haven't found any lists of common changes people make but I think it could be a useful list to create. So here goes. Leading Edge Tabs The leading edge mesh eventually wears out and tears through. Instead of leaving the kite in two pieces, a series of short tabs are sewn in place along the leading edge. The modification adds typically 7 or 9 small strips of mesh or webbing sewn across the mesh to connect both sides. This can be done to support the mesh and help extend its life, or as a repair after the mesh fails. The tab material should be a non-stretch material such as 1/2 inch nylon webbing used in backpacks. Typically one is sewn into the center, a pair is sewn near the fold points (see the next modification) others spread across the mesh. Fold Point Leading Edge Tabs The leading edge mesh at the two points where the kite is typically folded wears out quicker than other sections of mesh. While they can be the same as the other leading edge tabs, these are typically wider because the kite does not typically fold at precisely the same point each time. They may use 1-inch nylon webbing, 2-inch nylon webbing, or patches of Kevlar fabric. Wear / Stretch Strips The kite sail stretches as the fabric bears the forces of the wind. The biggest stretch tends to be along the lines of the vertical spars. The modification adds a strip of less-stretching material along the sail down along that same path to reduce how quickly the fabric stretches. The most common material seems to be 1-inch insignia tape (a 3.9 ounce Dacron tape) sewn in place directly along the path of the vertical spars, but other sail repair tapes, lightweight webbing, or materials could be used. The Revolution Reflex uses a heavy tape for this reinforcement. Reinforced Bungee/Shock Cord Mounts Some kites have minimal extra fabric at the connection points where the kite sail is attached with elastic cord to the caps for the spars. The reinforcements depend on what is already on the kite. Adding a piece of Kevlar fabric with adhesive, with stitching, or with both, adds stiffness and makes the material more difficult to rip through. Adding larger washers to the bungee spreads the forces even more. Knot Covers The knots and washers on the trailing edge vertical attachment points can sometimes snag on the lines, especially when performing slackline tricks like an axel or catch/throw. Adding a strip of fabric that covers the knots but goes behind the spar (between the spar and the knots) will cover up the knots and washers, reducing the risk of snagging the lines at that point. Reinforced Leading Edge The leading edge of the kite rubs along the ground, and over time abrasion can tear, scuff, weaken and eventually wear through the leading edge material. Urban flying on concrete can quickly damage the leading edge material. This reinforcement adds additional layers of fabric along the leading edge. A strip of adhesive Dacron tape or Kevlar tape is stuck along the leading edge folding around it to provide extra layers of material. In a pinch other tape like masking tape or painters tape could be used. The tape can be removed and replaced as needed. Glued Sail Repairs When there is a tear on the sail that has clean edges it might be repairable with glue instead of a ripstop patch. After cleaning the surface with rubbing alcohol, align the tear so the edges are touching and secure it with adhesive tape. Be as precise as possible to align the torn edges. Flip the kite over, find the tear, and smooth out the material. You can use Superglue (cyanoacrylate glue degrades in water and is stiff) or a waterproof glue like Seam Grip (urethane glue is waterproof and more flexible). Apply a bead of glue along the tear. After the glue is dried remove the tape from the opposite side, smooth the fabric out, and apply a bead of glue across the opposite side. Magic Sticks A pair of standoffs for the rev kite. I think these were created and are sold by Eliot Shook, who runs a kite shop and sells these as a kit. 12-inch or 16-inch standoff spars are attached to the vertical spars, with short lines that attach to various mount points on the kite. The standoffs allow the kite to stay upright and stationary when landed without using a ground stake, and make the kite frame more stiff and less prone to bowtie effects. LED Lights Small LED lights can be beautiful when flying at dusk. I've seen small "finger lights" that can be ordered in large packs online, which have a small elastic and power switch on them. The finger lights can be slid over bungees or spars to put light along the kite. If the kite uses Magic Sticks the lights can be pointed directly at the sail to provide a bright backlight. LED light strips are heavier, but provide an interesting option. Some searching on eBay can find strips of color-changing lights with wireless remote controls and a USB power source (e.g. phone charger battery packs) which can be secured with adhesive tape. They add weight to the kite but add quite a visual flair. Tails and Streamers Easily attached and removed, they add some flair while flying. Any ribbon-like material could be added. In my own bags I've got bright spools of flagging tape (from the hardware store) that can be any length I choose. Unlike tails for single line kites, these can be unbalanced and attached at any existing mount points at any desired length. Several performers use them occasionally. Scott Weider has a custom black indoor rev with a silver strand design flowing through the length of the sail, ending at the wingtip where he attaches a long silver streamer. I've seen some amazing pair performances where two revs were tied together by a long ribbon. You can use tails and streamers to help tell a story with your music or as a decoration to the flight. Any other modifications and adjustments for your quad-line kites?

Hi folks, greeting from Israel. So the nose on my Widow NG was torn and beaten for a while, probably from all the nose pop-up and such. It was time for a nose job. I decided my sawing skills were not up to the task of putting a new one, so I went with an option that was discussed by many before on different forums, all recommending it. Since I haven't seen anyone post a "how-to" manual, I'm showing here my process. Hope you enjoy it. The before shot + The material and tools I started applying the first layer with a brush, very runny and fluid compered to the original mix, after I thinned it with the Naphtha. This was so the fabric would be soaked with the plasti dip . After waiting 1/2 hour, I applied the second layer, which was reduced through natural vaporizing in open air. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-LVP1l5PKHM8/VWngdhq4BSI/AAAAAAAAPb4/msThFWnumdY/s288/20150530_125737_SUPER.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-RGsNSV1QY2g/VWngdm15B5I/AAAAAAAAPb4/BP1o6igfQdo/s288/20150530_124939_SUPER.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-pRMYEokzh4k/VWngds3y7_I/AAAAAAAAPb4/ABk8o47vhwI/s288/20150530_133654_SUPER.jpg After another half and hour I put the leftover plasti dip in a cut-out plastic dish so I can dip the nose in the now-more-concentrated material. I dipped only 1/3rd of the nose this time. After another 1/2 an hour, I dipped a final time in the almost-original consistency dip, and only the tip of the nose. The result was a fully protected nose. Hope I helped someone, in some small way. On another note, if there's anybody on this honorable forum from my neck of the woods, I'd be happy to get together and fly happy flying everyone. Iftah.