frob

Each kite bridle will be different. One kite with it's bridle might be 6", one kite with a different bridle might be 10", another kite with a different bridle might have the length on the bridle so 0" at the handle. What ultimately matters is the orientation of the sail in the air; the bridles, the lines, the handles, and the pilot all play a part. As for starting the decision between replying to an 11 year old topic versus starting a new topic, it really should be a new topic. Maybe Riffclown or another with mod/admin power would split it off.

That seems awfully heavy for the size of the kite. Given enough wind and a proper bridle it can probably fly. As for the rest, apart from a few basic equations for angle and surface area, even NASA kite sails have an experimentally determined value, basically they fly the kite and measure whatever it really is.

Sounds about right. There are coatings that can be applied, with risks that come with it. Personally, I wouldn't bother with anything more than the coatings that come on fabrics. The risks of getting sticky, tacky, stiff, or yellowing are worse to my mind than the effect of fading due to age. Of course, I also have a small stock of Icarex / PC31 fabric that is coated, and UV-treated thread. Many kites are built from the stuff, but some are not. Ultimately kites are meant to be flown. Fly it, love it, let it get the UV damage from sunlight, damage from flapping in the wind, and when it's eventually battered and weathered and worn, retire it. If you're flying it enough that it is damaged due to wear and sunlight that means it's a well loved kite.

They look a lot nicer than my fluorescent golf ball stakes. 🤩

Out of town this weekend, otherwise I would.

You might read up on what else Joel Scholz made, and I think he still makes. They range from 'meh' to exquisite, with corresponding values. They're fairly rare to see for sale secondhand, but popular designs can go for a couple hundred.

Hol'up! I'm here! And a few others are too. I try to arrange a monthly fly on the second Saturday of each month but usually it's either just me alone or me and a family member. We've had a few times where some others join in, between about a quarter to half the time. I fly most Saturdays at the same place if I'm in town, but just don't advertise the flying beyond possibly posting a video on youtube. There's Austin End of the Line kite team, but they've been hit by some medical issues last year. There's Go Big or Go Home, although they're transitioning a bit due to age as well. There are a few other people in the region but most are quiet online. As Mebeatee said, there's a lot of views there. I'm not a big fan of the French style, but it's another popular method. It is not so much about the the length, its the difference top and bottom total line length. Go back to when the Rev was introduced in the 1980s and the company had shorter lines on bottom and longer lines on top. Moving a leader to the handles allowed for lines to be equal length, and the longer length could be easily adjusted at the handles. Each kite can have a different 'sweet spot', especially when switching brands or models. I'm a fan of the way John taught it, although I've no idea who came up with it, possibly Lee Sedgwick. With equalized lines, short leader line on the bottom on the longest setting. Put the long leader line on top, find the farthest out that you can still launch the kite, then go in one knot from there. The result mid-air will hover in a neutral position, with the grip balanced midway down the foam on your handles neither pulling forward nor back.

Countdown to an amazing kite for somebody... It's a great time to register for the site if you've not done it already.

I don't know about the glue, never heard of that one. The usual approach is a few stitches to replace failed stitches, not glue to replace stitches. There are different repairs like punctures which can use glue, but if there is enough pressure to rip out stitches glue is unlikely to be enough. A similarly colored polyester thread will work.

You've got a couple good kite stores within 150 miles or so, including Kitty Hawk that runs a chain. Call and ask if they want more. Based on how many shops have closed, how many makers keep dropping off or moving to custom-only builds, plus the move of people in general away from kites and outdoors activities, demand isn't going to be enormous. Building amazing products and building brand awareness will both be essential if you're trying to enter the market.

Does it actually impact the kite, or is this purely cosmetic? From the picture it looks like the pocket is still fully intact, and the most important sides that will be taking the pressure look like they're still going to work. It looks like it is just a stitch over the folded webbing and not a hole in the webbing or multiple stitches. For me, I'd say if it ain't broke don't fix it. Matching red polyester thread is easy to find at any fabric store. If the pocket still works you could simply run a threaded needle through the same holes to cover up that broken stitch. If multiple stitches have broken it looks like 12 or so total stitches, easy peasy, although maybe intimidating if you don't sew. In that case find a friend who sews and they probably have a matching red polyester thread and can put those stitches in within a minute or two.

Just like a winch or anything else with wrapped lines, it should never be stored with high tension. Bring the kite down either hand-over-hand (always wearing gloves) or using a block with a pulley or a large carabiner, or whatever else that can slide easily across the line without damage. Start at the anchor, and slowly walk toward the kite bringing it down one step at a time. For a strong-pulling kite it may take more than one person's weight and strength. Be very careful when doing it, as a gust of wind can cause it to re-launch. Make sure you never get the line wrapped around a finger or hand or under an arm during the process, and if the kite takes off with a gust let go instead of getting injured, which sadly occasionally happens. If you've been around the kite circuit for a while you'll meet people missing a fingertip or have had other major injuries, and hear the horror stories from years past where a few people have died and others needing major reconstructive surgery. When you've walked the line down, detach it when you reach the tow point. With the kite on the ground, it is easy to wind the line up with minimal tension, just hand strength to keep it on.

I have both brands, and a few more. The difference is minimal. They will wear a little differently over the years but both will give hundreds of hours of use if treated well. Use on sand or near saltwater or fly with people who have sand/salt in their lines rubbing against yours and they will wear faster.

Assuming they're somewhat recent models, contact the company. Your profile doesn't say where you are in the world, but many Flexifoil owners are in the UK where Flexifoil is based, if you're in another country you may want to contact your nation's distributor.

The site used to also host kitemap.org with exactly what you described, but it has been gone for a few years. This post has some details.