makatakam

Yep, and remember that it's always a compromise unless you encounter "perfect" wind. Plan for the lulls in variable winds, and make minor adjustments from there. Move your hands up and/or down on the handles to find the balance point, which changes with wind speed, including gusts and "holes". Again, there is compromise here, as you settle into the average best location.

If you come across any other Rev flyers at Bondi, check how their handles and leaders are set up.

Looking really good in that vid, and your one-handed is awesome.

Yes, but you would have to hold it constantly and consistently. When you move the top lines out (away from the handles) you are tilting the sail so it is more square to the wind. More wind in the sail equals more lift and makes it easier to fly in lighter wind. As with everything, it becomes a compromise between the extremes, you will eventually find a balance point. You will always be making adjustments as conditions change. Where you grip the handles also makes some difference. But for now, just concentrate on basic control. As far as the different frames go, the more wraps the stiffer and heavier it becomes. Ideally, the frame should flex to give some billow to the sail. This is what actually creates lift. Use the 3-wrap in wind up to 20 mph or so-ish, the 4-wrap when you feel uncomfortable about the way the leading edge is bending. In very light wind you could use a 2-wrap frame, but at this point of the game it would make very little difference in your ability to keep the kite airborne. That will come with more time on the lines. Light wind flying is difficult even for experienced flyers, and the full vent Rev comes into its own at about 12 mph. Try to time it so you are learning in wind from 12 to 20 mph. If you are busy fighting the wind it will take longer to build muscle memory, and can make it frustrating to learn. Find other flyers and/or festivals near you. This will shave many hours off the learning curve. Click on the member map and see who's near you. More important than anything else: Have fun, smile and don't forget to breathe!

Hey, Frankie, I'm not criticizing your flying at all. I just see how far you've advanced in just 3 years and am jealous of the progress you've made. Believe me, if I could only advance that quickly I would feel extremely blessed. I guess what I want to say is that I see a lot of natural talent for flying in you. I'm not trying to change your style of flying. No one can do that, no matter how hard they try. I only comment on what I believe can help you get even better. Which direction you go and how you get there are choices for you to make. The level you care to achieve is also up to you. The true purpose of flying any kite is to bring joy to the heart and the hearts of those around you. I think you're on the right path, and if it improves your physical and mental state there is no reason to change anything.

Just figured out how to slow down a You-Tube video. This dummy just learned something new. Hey, Wayne, you're gonna love this. Just go to the "gear" at the bottom right. Click on it and select speed. Ok, Frankie, I watched the last two vids again. The thing that strikes me is that all the moves blend together. There is not a distinct transition from one to the next. No beginning or end. I'm not saying that you need one with every move, but only that adding some here and there will add variety to how you get from point A to point B. I would probably say the same thing to myself if I made a video of my flying and watched it. I watch the JB videos and marvel at his ability to pull off transitions without pause, and intentionally pause the transitions at will, in time with the music and turn the "oopses" into "wows". This last part is a direct reference to the "Painted Desert" video. If you haven't seen this one you're missing one of the best Rev videos ever done. If you've already seen it, watch again, and look closely at the transitions, tracking and positioning. It's worth a second look, and since I found the slow-mo button, I'm heading there to watch it again myself and pick it apart for info and ideas.

Letting the top leaders "out" will increase the amount of brake. In other words, moving the top lines to the knot furthest from the handle. I too noticed that your handles are quite upright. Look at JB's vids and you'll see the handles in a "slouched" position, as opposed to "sitting upright". This indicates either unequal lines, or not enough brake. I would like to see a photo of your handles with the lines connected the way you usually have them when flying, to see if you could benefit from adding more brake. Adding brake will make it easier to keep the sail filled, and will tame things down in stronger winds, as well as providing better and easier control. As I mentioned before, I would like to see more video at normal speed. It is difficult to see where you could use improvement at that speed. If I knew how to, I would slow it down at my end, but I have no clue how to do that; ok, I'll try to figure it out. New trick for an old dog. Also, read the article on this site that JB has written, titled something like "flying with intent" (not the exact words, but enough to help you find it). You are a very good flyer and I think are at that point where reading this article may inspire you to greater things. I wish my axels looked as good as yours do.

I know all the basic "tricks", or maneuvers, how they look and what they are called. I just can't do them. Have no one near me who can help me learn. Videos are great, until I grab the lines, then all that knowledge disappears immediately. I would be happy to just do a stall to two-point landing in the middle of the window. I walk too many miles each time I fly a dual.

Seven years later, I can't even do a snap stall, but I have a good excuse -- I got into quad lines. Had the duals out twice this year in not enough and then too much wind.

Walk. The recovery puts a lot of wear on both the kite and the lines. However, if you can afford a new kite very often, go for it. I have tried it a few times, never with any success. It doesn't work on soft surfaces or grass longer than that on a golf green, until you become very proficient, so I don't recommend it.

When you say "lower spreader" I assume you refer to a dual-line delta. All carbon tubing is not the same. Some is straight, some is tapered (thinner at one end). Some is stiff, some is flexible. It is best to replace with original equipment, but if that is not possible, or the manufacturer of the kite is unknown, replace both sides with tubing that is of similar diameter and stiffness, making sure that the outer diameter will fit into any fittings snugly. If you know the maker of the kite, contacting them for replacements will get you the right stuff. Replacement spars are usually not very expensive, so replacing with the original type is preferable. 6mm is about .236 inches. If you use SAE to replace metrics, or vice versa, things won't fit quite the same. Not impossible, just not the same. Fit will be a very small amount off, always. Best way to get the feel for it is to try it. Generally, carbon tubing is measured by inner diameter. The thickness of the wall is what makes it weaker or stronger, so the outside diameter will vary. The fiber is laid up on a steel mandrel, and the number of wraps determines wall thickness and strength. The angle or combination of angles in relation to the length of the mandrel in which it is wrapped will determine the flex (springiness) qualities of the finished tube. In most cases, a protective coating is applied to the outside of the tube, and this too will affect the properties of the tube, depending on type and thickness. If you would like a lot more information, just Google "carbon tube manufacture".

Very nice flying! Smooth and precise.

Just Googled Bondi Beach -- that does look sweet!

When adjusting the sail tension, it is best to have the tips of the top caps on the vertical spars (at the leading edge) not sticking out above the leading by more than about 1/4 to 3/8 of a inch. Less chance of getting flying lines and bridle snagged up on them, as you've most probably experienced by now, and less chance of catching on brush, weeds, junk, etc., when doing an inverted slide near the ground. Also gathers less mud and sand, and minimizes wear on bridle and bungees. And yes, tighten the tops a bit first and then the bottoms. Sorry, my bad -- So many of my kites have been modified by replacing the top bungees with zero-stretch line, that I forgot about that. With zero-stretch line holding the top caps, they don't move up as you tighten the bottoms, so I only have to adjust bottoms and never have to play with the tops until I wear them out.

And we are part of it -- well, at least I am. Gee, I hope I'm not alone!

Sometimes the stated wind range is what the defines the best performance limits of a particular design. In other words, the kite can be flown below and above the specified range but it will not allow peak performance, kind of like the power curve of an automotive engine. It is where you will find optimal results. Not enough RPM, no go. Too much RPM, engine cooks.

Good flying -- looks like a great place to fly. Sit-down is my kind of flying! Keep the vids coming. The wind you had that day is typical of what we have here in the midwestern US. Gusty, bumpy, full of nulls and constantly shifting direction. Pain to fly/practice in, but when you can fly in that, you can fly in anything. One thing I noticed, and please don't take it as criticism, the bottom bungees could be tightened some on this Lime/Black kite. Watch the video again and look at the creases that run parallel to the length of the kite. From about 2:30 on you can see how the sail is bunched up towards the leading edge. Tighten up 'til those are gone and you will noticeably improve your ability to pull off a flatter axel, as well as provide a bit more lift for light wind flying.

I deleted my post. Just wanted you guys to know that it was getting a bit "complicated".

Basically, the sail must be able to lift everything attached to it: frame, bridle, hardware, lines and itself. Adding weight slows it down, subtracting speeds it up. One kite will not cover all wind speeds. Best choice for any beginner, anywhere in the world, is the 1.5 SLE Standard Sail. It comes with two different leading edges that will allow you to fly in wind from 6 kph to 25 kph, and will withstand a beginners crashes fairly well, unless you constantly hit hard objects at full speed. The best wind speed range for learning to fly any quad-line kite is roughly 8-20 kph. The first few times you fly, be sure the wind is in that range. If the wind is not in that range, learning will be VERY difficult! You will spend more time walking to and from the kite than flying it. Go to any kite festivals you can get to and ask for help from experienced pilots. Kiteflyers everywhere are friendly and enjoy helping others learn. They will even let you take their kite for a "test drive". Ask for help, don't be shy -- we want to help you learn. The smaller kites are VERY fast and don't give you much time to think and react until you have basic control, which will take from 3 to 20 hours of flying to become familiar with, and two or three times as long to master. Some people learn quickly, some take very long, most of us are somewhere in the middle. Long line will slow the kite and give you a larger "wind window" in which to fly. Short lines make things happen much faster and increase the possibility of damage to your kite. When you are beginning, longer lines will not slow down a fast kite enough to be of much use. Don't worry about performance at this time; most beginners can not feel the difference until they have been flying for a season or so. Remember, the frame goes on the back of the kite. Don't fly in typhoon winds until you know what you are doing -- not fun, plus you can hurt someone. Be safe, stay away from power lines, trees, objects that can cut your lines, and people. Most important -- have fun, smile, and don't forget to breathe.

Yep, me too! Unless we have gotten together for a club fly. Line control is better in low wind when fishing.

Grats, Todd, also a member of IKE. This kite was meant to fly with an IKE member, that's why no one else came in! They knew where it belonged. Thanks, Josh for a wonderful prize. I'll make sure we fly it and get some photos at the IKE retreat in September.

Yay! Way cool. And ignore all the wise-_ss peeps here, especially me.

Here's the shot I mentioned -- finally found it.

You could get a used vented and put some extra holes in it -- just a thought.

Hapes, I'm guessing that you were there on Sunday, but not Saturday. I live in the Chicago area. Dude, I know exactly how it feels. You get your Rev. You're all excited about flying it and the wind is total crap or hurricane or missing -- or all three on the same day. Welcome to the Midwest! If you can fly here, you can fly anywhere! Stick with it and you will be rewarded. Also, I know how hard it is to patiently wait until the wind is good enough, but you will develop muscle memory more quickly and find the experience more enjoyable if you choose to fly more "do-able" winds. By the way, the journey never ends. Keep smiling and don't forget to breathe.