JWharton Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 My new SUL built by Josh Mitcheson, just right for those no wind days[emoji41] Well I like it [emoji4] Apologies for the sound on the video I'd turn the volume down[emoji12] Sent from my SM-G903F using KiteLife mobile app 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul LaMasters Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 I'd only comment/recommend that the down tubes end flush with leading edge, a nice and smooth junction would be preferred. Sticking up is a catch point when slack lining and flailing, no wind RULES! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted September 28, 2017 Report Share Posted September 28, 2017 Low wind separates the wanna's from the be's. Definitely bring those uprights down at least an inch, ideally flush with the leading edge. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWharton Posted September 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 I shall have a tinker,Sent from my SM-G903F using KiteLife mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul LaMasters Posted September 29, 2017 Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 To improve the glide you need a rounded off leading edge (curvature OVER the top) surface, like a frisbee looks "edge on". You effect this change by trapping the elastic knots, washer, etc behind the down spars and behind the caps. You need a restrictor line added, that runs from the center attachment point on the bridle (at the leading edge loop) to the tops of the end-caps. This line holds the newly created bundle in place securely as you flail around. When done, your hand will fit in-between the frame and sail material at the top by the leading edge easily. Notice how different the location of the curvature is placed compared to the reflex models (this way is tight and tucked against the leading edge, not way down in the sail's center) This glide is beneficial in low/no-wind and possibly a deterrent in a big gust due to surging. That is not my experience but I have heard this comment from others. To compare the difference? Throw each kite w/o lines affixed. One will go across the county and the other will die a few feet away! Is it better aerodynamically? That is a personal question, only you can answer. This change will not work on the Phoenix models as they have the top end caps lashed to back of the sail, but on a B-series or Shook mesh it easy to accomplish. You have invested only some bridle line and time, easy to undo if it is not to your liking. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWharton Posted September 29, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 29, 2017 Tinkered, end caps down, and I think I have a fair bit of curvature in my leading end, Launching without lines did not try that will do though see what happens [emoji41] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted September 30, 2017 Report Share Posted September 30, 2017 14 hours ago, JWharton said: Tinkered, end caps down, and I think I have a fair bit of curvature in my leading end, Launching without lines did not try that will do though see what happens Too much tension on the uprights now. Ease it up by loosening the bottom bungees, and possibly tightening the ends of the leading edge after that. You want to minimize that "crease" right over the vertical spars. The sail should be tight, but not stretched. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWharton Posted October 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 1, 2017 LOL you guy's, shall have a look when I get back not took it out today 15-25mph wind today [emoji4]Sent from my SM-G903F using KiteLife mobile app Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted October 2, 2017 Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 The trick is to gently stretch the sail out without adding any creases. Use the bunjis at the bottom and end caps to still get the sail flat, without adding any wrinkles. Those indicate stress areas that pulled too tight for too long will fail. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul LaMasters Posted October 2, 2017 Report Share Posted October 2, 2017 always tighten the tops first, (if possible) otherwise you might just be pushing the down-spars higher above the leading edge tubes, ideally they should be flush! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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