northwavesailor Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 I have read some Rev ferrule repair threads. CA (Super Glue) seems be the fast and dirty repair for ferules but it's not flexible and will fail. I have used 100% silicone rubber sealant on another ferrule 're-glue' and it seems to be holding up..................... but not sure if it is a long lasting fix. I suppose time will tell! I want these repairs to last, but don't want to make this my life's work! Has anyone used Gorilla Glue for this application and has it worked? It seems to get great reviews but I have not used it. I also have 3 or 4 'flavors' of 2 part epoxy, but most are several years old. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captainbob Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 I have read some Rev ferrule repair threads. CA (Super Glue) seems be the fast and dirty repair for ferules but it's not flexible and will fail. I have used 100% silicone rubber sealant on another ferrule 're-glue' and it seems to be holding up..................... but not sure if it is a long lasting fix. I suppose time will tell! I want these repairs to last, but don't want to make this my life's work! Has anyone used Gorilla Glue for this application and has it worked? It seems to get great reviews but I have not used it. I also have 3 or 4 'flavors' of 2 part epoxy, but most are several years old. Thanks! I would be hesitant to use epoxy that was several years old. Get some 5 minute epoxy, glue the ferrule in, and the kite will disintegrate before that ferrule comes loose. Gorilla glue is a poor substitute for a good epoxy in my opinion and not worth the dollar or two savings. CA glue is brittle and will break sooner or later. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Do NOT use Gorilla Glue! It expands as it cures and may splinter the tube -- guaranteed break! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mystainedskin Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Despite what is said. I use fast setting loctite superglue. Have not had a failure yet. Wham..bam. ..back to flying 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 I've been using Loctite super glue in the gel style. Take a few seconds to setup, giving you a little time to arrange things! Twist it in, seems to fill any grooves and holds fast! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve808 Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 So far I have had great results with Zap-A-Gap and FlexCoat Rod Finish epoxe After removal of the ferrule, I clean the ferrule as best as I can, light sanding helps also Then scrape and clean the inside of the rod. With Zap-A-Gap, I put 2 drops on the end of the ferrule and twist it in the rod to the 1/2 mark I then pull it out and add another drop or so, to be sure there is total coverage. Push back in, twisting to get full coverage. Wipe and clean up any glue Let sit about 5 min. Done Never had one come loose up so far Flex Coat epoxe rod finish I have used before for coating the thread wraps on fishing rods. I have even used it on some of my rod ends that have cracked or split. I tried it on ferrules and so far I have not had one loosen up. Takes a long time for the glue to set up. Best to have something to keep the rod turning slowly to keep the glue from pooling. I have used the fish rod turning set up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northwavesailor Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Thanks to everyone for their suggestions on adhesive of choice for the ferrule repair. I must admit that the ease of use of the CA, either Zap-a Gap (Steve 808 and Kent from AWOC) or Loctite Super Glue (Wayne Dowler and mystainedskin) is very appealing. I may go the epoxy route as we still have some LE first crashes that pilots of your level do not have, thus our CA repairs may have a higher chance of failure due to these shocks to the leading edge frame sections. Thanks to Makatakam as well for steering me AWAY from the expanding forces of the Gorilla Glue!!! (That is why I asked if anyone had used that product in this application) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 A little trick for any glue used. Measure the ferrule and mark the center. Put the ferrule into the spar up to the mark. Then wrap the ferrule with masking or duct tape, right up against the spar connection. Make sure you get the tape nice and flush to the spar. Glue as you would, let set up. then remove tape. All the excess glue should come off on the tape and leave you with a nice clean joint, rod to rod! if there's any gaps. use sandpaper or even an emery board to clean it up! You want a nice tight rod to rod connection! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyzakite Posted June 2, 2014 Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 In the quest to find a glue that will never fail, keep in mind that both ferrules should be done at the same time, if not, what happens when the other one fails? Correct! it slides down into the tube never to be retrieved! At least with super glue you can get it to fail when need be. Also, crashes shouldn't play as much of the part in failure as would the sudden takeoffs or too high of wind for the sail when the normally straight leading edge is curved into a wicked arc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
northwavesailor Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Yes, hyzakite, I did find the other ferrule on the same center spar was rotating so they are now BOTH epoxied and curing. I know that many here have had success using CA for this repair and that is the fastest repair option. I took the (hopefully) longest lasting approach and used 5 minute, 2 part epoxy as suggested by Capt. Bob. (yes, Bob I bought new epoxy!) I also used Wayne's tip with a wrap of blue painters tape to have a nice clean joint after the epoxy has cured. Prepped the area with all old adhesive sanded and scrapped off and 90% alcohol wipe prior to using the epoxy. Thanks again for all the suggestions and tips!!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MGower Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Here is the BEST glue i have ever used Rapid Fix does not dry out as it works with lack of air instead of air like other glues also comes with diamond dust as a filler for holes can be drilled tapped and sanded instantly. I have used it to repair cameras, motorcycle covers,and a slew of other things 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hadge Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 A good quality gel type CA works best - the gel type gives you a few seconds to get the ferrule in the right place - I've had the liquid type dry on me before I've gotten the ferrule fully home! Epoxy may make a bomb proof bond, but if you want to remove the ferrule - say to replace a broken spar - it's nearly impossible to do it cleanly. With CA all you need to do is apply a heat gun for a minute or so and it will pop right out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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