Skyclad01 Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 As far as I can tell, they still seem to be pretty equalized. Though I will double check that anyways next time im out with the kite. Would about 1/4" tightening on each bungee be about safe? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Generally closer to 3/4"-1" on a first tightening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Just roll the knot, one knot width over! If not, then mark where they are (sharpie) and move them. Then see if there are any wrinkles in the sail. Try to get all the horizontal wrinkles out, but don't create any vertical ones with the tightening! If you get where you're happy with the results, trim and melt the bunjiis! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Wayne's got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Just roll the knot, one knot width over! wouldn't that barely be 1/2" though? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted August 8, 2015 Report Share Posted August 8, 2015 Never measured! Go by feel and watch the sail - more important! Probably weren't exact from the factory anyways!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 Try to get all the horizontal wrinkles out, but don't create any vertical ones with the tightening! I tightened the 2 bottom bungees and now the sail is tighter. I do have a couple vertical wrinkles, nothing bad though, it should smooth out after a flight or two. Or are vertical wrinkles of any kind bad? I plan on flying the Rev after dinner tonight, so any quick replies about that would be helpful. I definitely don't want to do any damage to the kite. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted August 9, 2015 Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 The guys don't mean wrinkles in the cloth, more like visible tension lines. You'll know what they're talking about if you just pull the bottom tip(s) of the sail when the kite is fully assembled. You don't want "stretch marks" showing. If you have a little vertical lines, you can tighten the leading edge bungees at both ends just enough to take them out. You don't want to put too much tension on the sail, because that will permanently deform the cloth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2015 I kinda figured that's what they meant. Which is what I was also referring to. I'm hesitant to tighten the LE bungees though because I noticed that after tightening the 2 bottom bungees that LE rod's take a little more force to pull apart because of the due tension already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Usually, everything stretches somewhat and you need to tension all the bunjiis. It's all a matter of taking your time and seeing your results, before any trimming and melting. If you need excessive force to remove the bottom caps, try tightening the top caps some and the bottoms a little less, but it's the same effect overall. Better to adjust slowly, than to make a huge adjustment and overdo it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 All I did was make a knot directly behind each knot of the bottom bungee's. Took it out for a flight tonight and it definitely flew a lot better. The caps are snug, but not to where it requires excessive force to put on/take off. I did take a look at my lines before I left the field and the top lines seem to be about 1" longer than the bottom lines (which would explain its weak responsiveness when flying), so I will have to correct that next time im out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wayne Dowler Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 Sounds like a good plan that. Easily undone if it feels or looks like too much. If after a few flights, you feel satisfied, trim the excess off and melt the ends, being careful of any sail + "bits" being in the line of fire! Equalizing the lines every little bit, will make it easier to get used to, and keep things even! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 If both top lines have stretched equally, use the tops as bottoms for a while, and the bottoms will stretch to the same length as the tops. If you shorten the tops and the bottoms begin to stretch, as they surely will eventually, then you have merely created extra work. You can adjust any and all lengths to be "equal" by using the knots on your handle leaders, although you should get that one that ends up longer than the others (usually the top right if you are right-handed), shortened to match the others. As long as both bottoms are equal in length to each other, and both tops are equal in length to each other, you'll be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyzakite Posted August 10, 2015 Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 You can't go back to the original measurements, but you can try to get close to them, by feel. Back to equalizing all 4 lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2015 If both top lines have stretched equally, use the tops as bottoms for a while, and the bottoms will stretch to the same length as the tops. If you shorten the tops and the bottoms begin to stretch, as they surely will eventually, then you have merely created extra work. You can adjust any and all lengths to be "equal" by using the knots on your handle leaders, although you should get that one that ends up longer than the others (usually the top right if you are right-handed), shortened to match the others. As long as both bottoms are equal in length to each other, and both tops are equal in length to each other, you'll be fine. If only I had known/thought of that last night before untying one of the sleeves just before heading home. Thats ok though. I've got both top sleeves untied now. After dinner, I will head over to the field, equalize them and be back in fight before I know it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Bungee's tightened, line's equalized and the kite is flying like a dream again. It no longer feels floaty, is more responsive like how it used to be, and it holds wind in the sail much better! So much so that I was even feeling that sure of it that I even attempted (and successfully) did a few ficflac's with it. It no longer drops out of the air when I try to do any turns/rotations with it and im not fighting to keep the sail filled. If I had any complaints at all. It would be that the kite is a little noisy when flying. Nothing too bad or worth complaining about considering how nicely it handles now. I noticed the noise/buzz seems to come from the bottom center of the kite under the Revolution logo where the wings come together as one. But again, the noise is nothing bad and no real complaint considering how nicely its handling. Thank you everyone for all your help and input during my journey through the darkside. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
makatakam Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Adding brake will quiet it down, except at top speed. It slows the average speed down a bit. Also, putting a tad more tension on the bungees at the ends of the leading edge will help. This will bow the leading edge more, which in turn keeps the vee below the logo tighter. Less flutter, less noise. Although I must admit, it's a lot more fun doing a dive stop over someone's head when it's really loud. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Bungee's tightened, line's equalized and the kite is flying like a dream again. It no longer feels floaty, is more responsive like how it used to be, and it holds wind in the sail much better! So much so that I was even feeling that sure of it that I even attempted (and successfully) did a few ficflac's with it. It no longer drops out of the air when I try to do any turns/rotations with it and im not fighting to keep the sail filled. If I had any complaints at all. It would be that the kite is a little noisy when flying. Nothing too bad or worth complaining about considering how nicely it handles now. I noticed the noise/buzz seems to come from the bottom center of the kite under the Revolution logo where the wings come together as one. But again, the noise is nothing bad and no real complaint considering how nicely its handling. Thank you everyone for all your help and input during my journey through the darkside. On most Revs, this sound comes from wind spilling off the back edge of the kite (as you described)... Try lengthening your top lines (using the adjustable leaders) by another 1/2" at a time, until the sound only happens occasionally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Unfortunately I don't have adjustable leaders. I'll have to get some proper material some time and make my own one day. But it's ok actually because the way it responds to the way I fly is actually pretty good. Plus im sure the top lines will stretch some more over time as I continue to fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Lovingly I say, you don't know what you don't know... Don't undervalue the suggested changes, it may feel good, but it can feel even better with a 75 cent fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I agree with you. Im not opposed to the suggested changes. I just dont have the material for them at the moment is all. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Barresi Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Gotcha. I'm a bit under slept, I probably could have worded that more elegantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul LaMasters Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 Nevertheless, a dozen feet of 100# hi-test bridle line mailed in a #10 envelope is not that much of a financial investment, but the return for these said funds is truly priceless! You'll fly the kite an inch above the ground, inverted as a preference, because of the confidence gained through practice. Every kite can fly forward, most to the top of the window,... "quad-line effect" on the other hand?, that revolution kite is all about one word control, that control comes from active brake line pilot inputs. Change the leaders and change the kite's performance capabilities. What a cheap fix,... heck send me your address thru a PM and I'll provide it myself, if funds are a major concern. This is a must fix, I would stop you on the flying field and demand to change your set-up immediately, YES it is that important! Don't waste time learning w/o this feature incorporated into your equipment. There are lots of schools of thought on how to arrange longer top leaders. My approach is to have the tops a stationary length, (maybe a couple of very closely spaced tuning knots available) and that overall top length is the size of the gap between the two handle attachment points. it just about reaches all the way across! The bottoms are going to be only long enough for you to generate forward lift, barely and with effort on the part of the pilot. If the kite will not back-up from an inverted position on the ground, you do NOT have it tuned properly. This "Down emphasis" is not how the factory gives lessons, they want you to experience the thrill of a vertical climb in forward motion. Forget all 'bout that, in reality you need control of the kite inverted and an inch off of the ground. Quad-line effect is magical 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hyzakite Posted August 11, 2015 Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 You don't really have add more brake, to get rid of the sound/buzz you need to slow the kite down by applying a little brake. And you don't even need to slow the kite down, just apply a little reverse/brake to the lines during flight. Just enough to stop the buzz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skyclad01 Posted August 11, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2015 I understand and agree with everything you said Paul. If you look back a few pages on this thread, I believe I talked about what ive done with my leaders so far which was that I too off the bottom leaders and larksheaded the stock bottom leaders to the top stock leaders. And for the bottom leaders, I have a type of string (cheap, but strong and its been working as a temporary fix for now) that I made into 1" leaders for the bottom. My kite has no problems backing up from an inverted position at all. Funds aren't a major concern really. I just need to find someplace where I can get 10' - 12' of bridle line without having to pay $16 in shipping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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