midibot

Thanks for posting. Gets me thinking of festivals, and it has also been forever since, for me. Looks like there are a couple of days left. May the weather and all work out for the balance of the festival! .

Most welcome. A sailing term originally I believe. I found this simple description illustrative: http://www.uksailmakers.com/cruising-main-construction-options/leech-lines/ You will notice the difference and effects with your Hydra, which sports one (although fixed, rather than adjustable if I remember correctly). .

My Kymera is quite flatulent as well, in all but the lower winds. No expert, however, and have just a bit of time on mine. I commented on the lack of a leech line as a contributing factor above. Not necessarily a problem for me, but not a kite I want to pull out at some of the local neighbourhood soccer fields I frequent. It gets the dogs excited a bit Then again, so do some of Lam's designs. I have one of his early ATMs, which lacks a leech line. Reminds me of my ole TOTL SpinOff that way a bit. Some people really love that sound! BTW the wind range you describe does not seem excessive imo. And I think the kite is built well for it. .

I just pulled out both of my ITW Hydra and Kymera kites to see if I can see your concern. I got mine earlier this year so they may be of similar vintage to yours. As between the two kites, at least for me, the Hydra is certainly the more taut when assembled. However, I was able to assemble it without too much difficulty, and it did not seem excessive compared to other kites I have. If concerned, using just the loop as you describe might be a good temporary solution pending the kite stretching out a tad after a few flights. One point to mention: the Hydra has a leech line going through the hem of the trailing edges, whereas my Kymera does not. This will result in some additional tension, potentially. Unlike some kites, the leech line does not appear to be adjustable on the ITW Hydra, so one cannot back it off. (The Kymera is the louder kite of the two in my experience, due, at least in part, to the lack of such leech line I expect.) Perhaps go over the kite again to make sure there are no excessive pressure points such as the spine not properly snugged in the nose pocket or obstructions in the standoff connector holes. Relaxing the velcro at the base of the spine (not too much) may help somewhat -- but not enough that the cross T at the base becomes too loose. The leading edges should also be snug into the nose and completely seated at the ferrule joints. I didn’t measure the length of my standoffs, but that could also be an issue. Perhaps post up yours for comparison with others if there is still an issue. Hope that helps a bit. Both nice kites! .

I assume it is the landing and takeoff by Mr Aughenbaugh beginning at about the 3:55 mark on the video that caught attention. I am not familiar with the move, but in addition to the kite comments (may be in part kite specific), I note three things: 1. See how Scott runs forward to decelerate the kite (and appears to throw his hands forward to accentuate that at the very end); 2. It is on sand - may be easier on the landing and 'slipperier' on the takeoff; 3. It is The Scott Aughenbaugh.

A further thought: One of the best bang for buck kites we got was an Into The Wind Hata. A single liner. Think they run about 20 US dollars now, and it includes line. It can be flown with its tail on as a standard single liner (which it does quite well, pretty stable in a wide range of winds) -- or as a simple fighter variant. Tail off, it is much less stable but can then be lead about the sky by pointing the kite in the desired direction, pulling in and releasing line when you want to speed up or slow down or stop in that direction and send it off into another. A controllable kite (in a larger sense!). A little hard to describe but google fighter kites and you’ll get an idea. Fun learning curve. (We do not use glass covered line however!) In tail-on mode it is a good gentle flyer for beginners or indeed any flyer. In more advanced mode -- yeee hawww! Nothing at all wrong with starting with a simple GOOD single liner. Just a thought for your upcoming week if you are able to grab one in time. .

Welcome to kites! With the exception of special kite positions such as the turtle or fade (which normally require some tending and don’t generally last long) dual line kites always require constant attention, some more alert attention, others more relaxed, relatively. Often correlated to size (although not always). (As a side note, Prism used to make a kite that could be flown in either single line or dual line mode -- the Switch. Don’t know if it ever took off (so to speak) in the market however and it has been discontinued.) As far as good beginner dual line kites, of the ones you mention I know and like the Beetle but there may be more modern ones available that would fill the bill -- I am gonna defer to others here as I am a little out of touch and just getting back into kites again myself after a prolonged absence. The Quantum gets good reviews for being a well-built kite that is reportedly tough. It should be fine in the winds you mention and a lot more. It is a bigger kite so will probably provide good bang for the buck. Speaking of which, it may come down to budget as always. Do consider used as a viable option… Have fun at any rate! .

I was in the process of typing my reply a few minutes ago and posted it but see that your more experienced reply was posted in the interim, good stuff. On this latter point quoted above, I expect that the line going to the tips is what used to be referred to as a 'trick' line, to help out in some 'old school' manoeuvres. I'd be inclined leave it on for now as the kite is designed with it, but some people were happier without on some kites. .

Not familiar with that particular kite but from your pic the outermost standoffs would appear to be battens, intended to be plugged into the ‘spare’ standoff connector on the leading edge you mention. Likely with some degree of bowing. If the middle set doesn’t also have a pocket to slide into as a batten, it may be that the standoff connectors are missing -- the ‘c’ clip or stopper near the end of the lower spreaders look like they are in, or near, the correct spot for it. So you’d need a couple of connectors, one each side of the kite. Perhaps they can be matched to the original if they are marked, but it is not critical to performance that they be exactly the same, as long as they are the right size. (Perhaps aesthetically it might matter…) Hope that helps a bit. Others more familiar may chime in. .

I expect that the spars could well be some make of pultruded carbon tube, having clicked on your picture for a better view. If so, these are hollow: solid would be pretty darn heavy in an 8 foot kite. Pultruded is just 'somewhat' heavy. Somewhere around there are interesting spar charts comparing size, weight, deflection, strength, etc of various types and makes of spars/rods/tubes. But I digress. Often (but not always) there is a make, size or other info printed on one or more of the spars -- although perhaps an interior one not immediately visible. At any rate that might become relevant should you ever -- ahem -- excessively stress one negatively. .

From your picture, it looks like the Griffin 3-stripe, which would be the middle of the 3 versions, and framed in carbon fibre (Bemans?). The basic version (I still have mine!) was framed in something like J-65 fibreglass. Heavier! Floppier! Bullet proof! Needs about 7mph to get going! The top end was the 5-stripe, done up in polyester (icarex?) cloth and wrapped rods, with a commensurately lower end in the wind range. Your version may vary from this, however. In any case a classic kite indeed, imo. . .

I have a bunch of old lines I have been meaning to try and I am thinking I will just attach the flying ends to a sturdy eyelet on a fence post and just unwind and give them some gradually increasing pulls until it simulates worse scenario conditions I would expect for the particular kite in big winds, and a bit more. Probably go up at least one size for a given kite to be safe (like clubbing up one in golf). Some of the old lines are kevlar and that's a whole 'nother kettle of fish I expect. . .

We flew 7/8 foot roks in rok battles with 150-200# or so line on a large hoop spool with good success. Simple, and pulls in a fair bit of line per revolution come time for that. Just one moving part aka yoyo winder I think Oh, and some good gloves, too.

Very cool Top Of The Line. The model, if so, will be sewn on the kite at the spine area and on the sleeve: looks like "The Hawaiian Team Kite". Lots of history in that! Big pull in a big wind. Various models over the years and the spars used varied as well. For instance the 1995 (I think it is) catalogue makes reference to a pro spar graphite/fiberglass version as an alternative to the straight fg version. Check out the specs on Soarin's pages here: https://kenpar19.wixsite.com/thesoarincollection/hawaiian-team-series?lightbox=dataItem-jckvxs2m and here: https://kenpar19.wixsite.com/thesoarincollection/hawaiian-team-series Nice slooow kite can do square corners but don't expect to axel it soon...! .

Here's that Skynasaur Trixter/Tracker diagram I mentioned (hope this works):

The Flying Wings kites usually have an instruction sheet addressing this iirc, perhaps not here. The white line (leech line), a loop in your pic, goes on first, generally. On the wingtip tensioner aspect, a brief search on here brought up a similar question for a Flying Wings Silver Fox -- see the pics in post #3 by Daniel in this thread: https://kitelife.com/forum/topic/8216-silver-fox-23-ul-wing-tip-tension-help/ While not identical, the Prism video on doing up the Wingtip Tensioner linked below is of good general guidance as well. Others may chime in, too, with thoughts. If the UL doesn't have vinyl end caps ("vecs") on the wing tips, they are a useful addition to consider. While it adds a wee bit of weight, it also adds security and protection of the knot system and nocks. The downside is if not tight enough they can be lost, but replacements are available at kite stores. I get long ones a size small in diameter and stretch them on after heating in warm water. (Not the end of the world to fly without vecs.) The Prism link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RYq9755wpD0&list=PLuyl1SifkX7hYV9MVKc0uTsK3J14j-fj4&index=19 Hope this helps. .

I almost never use a stake for dual line kites any more -- one less thing to forget In low(er) winds one can just let the framed kite tilt back while you go back to the handles. At a certain windspeed or gust the kite may start to blow around as you walk back, so I do this: at the kite end, roll the kite backwards by hand about 3/4 of a revolution from the normal launch position so that it is oriented nose forward, belly down flat on the ground, with the lines coming up over the trailing edge of the kite and draped over the top of the kite, and extending back towards the handle/strap end of the lines. The kite is directly downwind of the handles here. Having the nose forward on the ground pointed (pancaked) into the wind gives it good stability, and time to get back to your handles comfortably and safely. You may perhaps recognize the nose forward position from some of the times you were forced to do that walk of shame to get airborne again -- but in this case the lines are deliberately draped as described, and you at the handle end of the lines slooowly and gently pull to roll the kite arse over nose to get to the stable launch position. This technique works in most winds, with the only issue perhaps being more extreme winds making it hard to roll the kite without potential damage (I don’t fly in that much wind), or wildly variable winds which might swirl and change direction up to 180 degrees or some such -- at which time I either wait it out or, less desirably, pack it in. I keep the kites I am not flying at the moment ‘parked’ on the ground nose into the wind face down. Sometimes there is quite the squadron of them The other note is that I am fortunate enough to fly mainly over grass (soccer/cricket fields) and so ymmv for other surfaces. I am inland so our winds are somewhat variable and uneven but this works for me most of the time. This process gets me out flying in a wide range of winds by meself with good success, and may be worth a try if you, ummm, forget a stake, too. Hope this helps a bit. .

In doing a little Skynasaur research here I came across this post. Given the sail graphics and lack of extended keel, I believe that the kite in this pic could have been the Skynasaur Trixter. The Trixter and Tracker, at ~74" wingspans, were slightly smaller variants of the Tracer as has been stated in this thread. I have in front of me the printed instruction booklet which points out that the Tracker has an extended keel, whereas the Trixter does not. The pic here does not, leading me to the possible Trixter conclusion. If we had dimensions of the depicted kite we could be more certain. OP did mention it being a somewhat smaller kite fwiw. The booklet came with my Tracker, which I recently picked up used. If I can figure out how to post it I can put up the diagram from the booklet describing the two smaller variants. It has dimensions and some notes on bridle differences as well. It may also be useful to someone down the line with these fun ole kites. .

I am looking out the window at snowflakes, and the thermometer says 0* C so the title caught my eye. Envy you! Pics would be nice but my imagination suffices at the moment. The kite will be fast in a 30kph wind; pull a bit, too. Interested in your idea of shipping it down -- how did that work out for you? Shipping it back, too? Aruba isn't that large I gather, so a bus or a car to another beach might be feasible, eh? .