REVflyer

My adjustments are on the handle bottoms, NO knots on the top lines. That means there's always a consistent amount of High Test bridle line available for "catches". You can't reach way out there, if your top leaders are six inches long!!! I like throwing my quads around and doing slack-line stuff. I need all of the tuning knots removed except for one. The high test bridle line is really easy to untie and adjust, so one less thing to tangle. "Neutral" tuning is the key and whatever works for you must be correct!

I have an all black Supersonic, no white panels at all, (Dan Whitney got it for me, so you know it's an oldie!) If you are patient you can get it in one color. I'm trying to get an all-white polyester sail now

you want a lesson from Shawn Tinkham and Scottie Weider, . . . the first chance you can get! They are members of the Eastern League and fly at many of the events along the Atlantic seacoast. Scottie is from around the Boston area (?) and Shawn comes from New Hampshire (I believe). Ten or fifteen minutes with one of the masters will cut literally years off of your learning curve. Ask for assistance, that's how we all learned!

Scottie's handles are the standard indoor lengths, almost all of the forward drive has been tuned away, by his choice he did also "beef-up" his indoor kite with tougher end-caps and minor reinforcements (that it is a durability issue, not about the flight dynamics)

the kite is "tuned properly" when it will back-up inverted (from the leading edge resting on the ground position). If it won't back-up, you'll shorten the brake/bottom lines until it does so. Knowing the lines are the same length is easy, just drop all four attachement points of your flying lines onto a stake, then go back to the handles and pull 'em up tight. "do they perfectly align?" Leaders on the handles are necessary, so little adjustments can be made as conditions differ. If you have too much "UP" in the tuning the kite will not be square to the wind. So a lot of the pressure bleeds out the back, instead of powering up the sail. I know it sounds weird, to add "reverse" so you get better forward drive. Next, you need sufficient experience to determine how you want your tuning set (in relationship to your grip on the handles). Personally, I like to grip real high on the handles and balance the forward - reverse flight from my index finger as a rocking motion. This is where a coach and properly tuned equipment really pays off! You can litrerally feel the difference immediately.

SURE! I'd like to fly that "inverted up & over" like Scottie Weider does. His reverse flight looks darn impressive on 14 inch indoor REV handles, . . . wouldn't you who've seen him agree? I'd almost hate to see what would happen w/my 17" throw Ti handles in his trusty grips. At least he'd put on a good show, myabe I'd even learn something too!

My REV stack lines are made with 100 pound spectra, seven lines each between the kites. The last kite in the stack needs about an eighth of an inch more "DOWN tuning" to lessen the oscillations. This is accomblished by shortening the bottom lines (ever so slightly too, . . . start off with them all perfectly equal!!!!) My stack lines are free floating, so all the tension pulls upon a line that passes thru each of the endcaps as opposed to just pullin' on the kite in front. Each kite attaches to that pass-thru line. 3/5ths or 4/5ths of the leading edge length is the proportion for the stack line lengths Many folks reinforce the front kite spars, either with stronger tubes, or by placing inserts inside the existing sticks. (for example, my baby revs are framed in 2-P skyshark tubes, but in higher winds or stacks greater than six kites we put a point 125 carbon tube INSIDE the first 3 leading edge tubes) After tuning, (be patient, that step will take awhile) LEAVE the stack tied together. FLY the back kite! Man that sounds so easy, but you get distracted during the fun. The back kite has further to travel, so you can turn the front one left, whilst the last (back) kite is still going right. FLY the BACK kite!

force the rubber donut back onto the end-cap, it shouldn't be hangin' on the bridle legs. In fact remove it completely and reinstall with the cap removed from the frame member. The cap is a cushion against which the SLE tube butts, slide it all the way against your bridle and bungie towards the opening or hole. If the kite flies crazy, I'd say to check your flying lines first. Place a stake securely into the ground and put each of your four flying line loops over it. Go back and pull tightly on the handles, do they align perfectly? If not, you know now to make an adjustment. A quick fix is to just use the leaders' adjustments for an afternoon, but eventually you'll want to shorten the longer lines (this is double~easy without sleeving, just tie another overhand knot into the longer line larkshead loop) Your arms may be a different length, but I doubt that is affecting your low wind flying to the extreme described. You've got a bridle problem, if the handles align perfectly on a stake. Again, take a sleel ruler and measure each of the bridle legs. Maybe even write down the dimensions? Someday you'll need a new one, so why not plan for that occasion. Make a bridle board and be done with that variable forever!!!

Mine is supposed to be red, black and white. The one in the picture posted is riding in Jim Cosca's kite bag now. I saw it up close earlier this week. It's all back-cut, nice and light weight. I'm pretty excited, I'll have to call again and see if it's been shipped yet!

sleeving is another tangle point just waiting to happen! It screws-up the unwinding of your lines, it tangles on the kite during slack-line tricks, it's murder on the handles too, if you have the metal triangle attachment method. It's usage is entirely elective, . . . it is not worth the trouble in my opinion. How can you make a miniscule adjustment if you use sleeves on your flying lines? I've NEVER had the lines fail at the knots in a dozen years of sport kiteflying. Instead of a simple loop (used for the larkshead) try tying a mini knot into the loop, so you have an easy way to remove the flying lines at the end of the day.

the most help extending the wind range of your REV is going to be using a longer throw handle, lighten the components only works so far. I prefer my REVs with 1-1/2 ounce nylon as the leading edge sleeve, rather than the 3.9 ounce dacron. So, with that in mind my next vented kite will be an SUL. I'll cut and sew in the vents myself, using the existing location, but only half of the factory's width. I'm not the originator of this set-up either, merely a copy-cat!

Call the factory on the phone, . . . waiting for a posted photo could mean you miss out on the opportunity. The number I've heard tossed around is "five large", plus freight in case that might influence your decision.

add some knots on the bottoms of your leaders so you can "tune" the handles for more brake. Place the leading edge resting on the ground and practice backing up to waist or head height (inverted). You may need to shorten the bottoms to do this more effectively. When the kite willl back-up from inverted, you have the handles tuned properly. Now try again and see how much more slowly you can control the kite. Lots of newbies begin their training with WAY TOO MUCH forward drive. John's advise of a tiny rocking motion of adjustments is dead-on. The Rev 1.5 kite is all about control, imagine you want to "park it" on top of a fence post. Imagine how carefully you'd approach such a stationary object. You wouldn't want to damage your new kite!!! That is the control you are after and it will take some time. But bad habits are much tougher to break later on, so learn with a huge dose of "DOWN" in your tuning. Later on you'll be darn glad you did it this way.

I talked to Lolly today, .. . . they received (or will!) ten Sainz sails. She's trying to get mine out for the first Sunday fly at the Washington Monuments this weekend. I ordered an SUL this time, 'cause weight is a huge issue in my part of the country. My Gibian is framed for the beach and the sail is truly "industrial strength", lots of the applique isn't even back-cut! Mine has training wheels, a custom bridle and a Skyshark frame. It is a great lookin' kite but only worthy of a steady 8 or 10 miles per hour breeze MINIMUM. (I have vented kites that have a lower wind range) The bride has assured me, my next new kite will come out of the sewing room, not her checkbook, HA!

you need ceramic rings that the lines pass thru, the rings are angled towards each other so the string only touches the ceramic portion. (you need two of them!) I bought fishing tackle rings and used an half circular shaped bolt with 2 part epoxy as the adhesive. The lines will still have some resistance, but it's much less than just hookin' around a dog stake! Somewhere John has a diagram I prepared that lists the parts, I've just not gotten around to an actual photograph.

Hopefully "they" have made these kites using appropriate materials for quad-line flight, not out of something that's entirely too heavy for normal everyday use (although it looks stunning). I'd like to examine one up close to see what's been improved from previous efforts.

dump the sleeving entirely, I've been flying quads pretty hard-core now for 13-14 years, never had a line break except when crossing the single line flier's tristed cotton thread (HA!) W/o the sleeving you find much less tangling problems arise, during set-up, slack line flying stuff or putting your equipment away. I wind onto the handles, but under tension! When setting up again unwind under tension, separate the handles as widely as possible and all the twists go right to the stake. Identify top and bottom lines with Sharpie Pens of different colors. For added quality control use the stake and insure you have all four lines exactly equal lengths on the handles. No sleeving makes line lengths extemely easy to adjust, just add a single overhand knot to the longer line, or even tune with the leaders on your handles. (only if you don't use 'em with anything else though) Try the TC Ultra handles, the winders are built right in there. I fly on 90# laserpro almost all of the time, indoors or outside. I switch to 150 pound when the wind is above 30 mph. Laserpro has a higher/stiffer modulus, it doesn't pick-up ground litter as easily as other lines. Berry blue use to snag every little piece of grass, twig, or leaf!

slow and graceful, they will back-up, but the Decas don't like slack lines like a typical indoor quad. There are some great deca fliers. Check out Steve Santos flyin' one in each hand at the same time on the Video section of Kitelife.com. You want the Great Wind Deca Indoor model for the best performance.

the stick you see used on Jason's kite~photo page should be a point 125 carbon TUBE (not a solid rod!) you'll need a hard end-cap, again to fit a 125 tube (get the completely holed one, not the cap w/ a slit!) any string will work for the structure, SUL kites can use spectra, . . . but the easiest to tie is the 100 pound hi-test Bridle line you'll also need the stand-off fitting and vinyl endcap that inserts into it (affixed to the opposite end of the 125 stick, from the hard-cap) The length of the stick is anywhere from 14 to 18 inches (longer is stronger, if you can get by the weight increase) The stick is located approximately 11-3/8 of an inch measured down from the top of the leading edge sleeve you want all the connecting lines to be tight, but not so tight as to place any frame distortion into the kite when it's laying flat on the floor. keep the knots as small as possible, so you don't catch a line during slackline tricks, consider sewing the loops shut! AFTER you do this to a kite you'll love it. I laughed at folks using "training wheels" during my first 7 years of quad~flyin'. I find the benefits vastly outweigh the drawbacks. I have dedicated indoor kites with the trainng wheels on the back now! All these parts are available from Bonnie Marvin @ Hang-Em High Fabrics. You can send me a personal email if you need still more information. lamastep@mail.nih.gov Longer handles help a bunch in low and no-wind conditions. I have 'em from 10 inches up to 19 inches (measured across the gap between the attachment points for your flying lines) Dump the sleeving on your linesets too!, they're just another snag point to catch a line.

same for me Kent! If you get out this way to DC Metro area please look me and the rest of the WOW gang ( http://www.wowkiteclub.com ) up for day of quad-flying. At last count I had 43 Revs, about half of which are smaller than 40 inches across on the leading edge. We could try out modifications all day long until you decide what you'd like for those rare no-wind days back home. There are half a dozen hard-core builders and quad-line fliers in our area who regularly get together on Sundays. Between the group, most possibilities or variables have been explored in both Spirits and Revolution kites. Personally, I hate the wind 'cause I'm so used to flying without it. We fly indoors (with unlimited ceiling height though!) about six months out of the year. My most used kites are SULs, but having the "magic stix" on the back makes the frames much more durable. I fly 2 wrap frames into the low teens without venting the sail. I finally received my patriotic Rev 1 from the factory yesterday. It's in big need of a "weight loss program" or I'll be testing it for the first time this fall! It could be so much lighter and still not weaken the durability. It sure looks nice, thanks Ben for offering a custom option.

That darn thing better be light enough for my local conditions, or I'll kill Ben the next time I see him! AND I still haven't received my "lucky No 7" yet either. Kent, with winds like 12 to 22 mph, a man~hole cover should fly well! In my town, the schools would be closed for a whole week (due to poor weather conditions) if we had condtions like you've described! I need a kite that can perform in zero to 3 mph with excellent control and NOT a ton of effort by the flier either. It has to be durable enough to survive a sudden gust of 10 or 12 too. I would not get the condions you've described three times annually. paul maryland, usa

Ohhh, I forgot something! I spoke with both Ben from Rev and Ron Gibian at Wildwood, YES they've come to an agreement. I discussed at length the materials to be used, if you plan to sell a kite for more than $400. Ron makes a beautiful art design, but if you're not a true quad~head the flight dynamics suffer from the builder's materiel choices. I went over some of the modifications I'd expect on a custom Rev. I also sent Ben to some of the other quad masters, so they can discuss their modifications personally. "Little desireable details add labor costs, could necessitate different parts, therefore they'd only be offered on a custom and only AFTER Lolly's approval". SIZE: ~ the best all around performance and most widely flown model by Revolution is the 1.5 size MODEL: ~ The kite should have a huge wind range, maybe even vented, (but with covers, so you can keep most of the low end performance and visuals). The venting should be half the width of the stock model, but in the same locations. SAIL: ~ the kite has to be a polyester sail and not thirteen layers thick either! (1/2 ounce icarex is best for me), . . . better flight, longer lasting color and moisture proof performance. ~ back cut the graphics and edge bind with minimum weight as a critical concern. 9460 3M adhesive tape and a 1/4 inch fold-over is sufficient and just as durable if no-sew is considered. ~ I want 1-1/2 ounce leading edge sleeve. Nobody paying this kind of money is going to be draggin' the leading edge along the sand! The weight increase to 3.9 ounce dacron isn't worth the durability/strength provided. Tiny kevlar and 3.9 oz. dacron reinforcements, only as minimally necessary to prevent tear-thru or stretch, will suffice. ~ No mylar panels! GRAPHICS: ~the kite has to look as good from behind and it does on the front side! FRAME: ~ the framing members should not extend past the sail. ~ The kite should come with interchangable framing members, to tune for various conditions. ~ I prefer a tapered down spar, since there's very little sail at the points of the triangle anyway. CONSTRUCTION: ~ I would expect small covers to be sewn over the elastic shock cord knots and washers, unless the knots can be hidden internally (like in the leading edge sleeve as an example) ~ The L.E. sleeve has to fit both the SLE frame and the skinny sticks to expand the wind range. BRIDLE: ~ The birdle should be built closer to the frame along the leading edge and directly connect (solidly!) to the center of the leading edge, by dumpin' that long hinge used on the stock models. ~ The hinge where the two bridle leg components connect should NEVER exceed a 5/8" of an inch. ~ I'd prefer the bridle was entirely sewn, rather than having any knots to snag during slack line tricks Naturally, I'd add the "training wheels" on the back and fly it on handles longer than the conditions warrant java script:emoticon(' ',%20'smid_16') -paul PS: Barbara would be thrilled to buy another custom Gibian REV, particularly at half price compared to the AKA's auction!java script:emoticon(' ',%20'smid_33')

I was supposed to receive lucky #7 in time for the first Sunday fly at the Washington Monument in july, but alas I guess it wasn't ready to ship yet, . ... 'cause I haven't seen it as of today! I complained about that heavy leading edge sleeving material being used (and I think it's a nylon sail besides?) My frame request was a 3 wrap center spar with 2 ply everywhere else, using four inch solid carbon ferrules. I'm hoping it's light enough to enjoy during the summer in the District of Columbia, but that's a real challenge for both the builder and flyer! I'll let you know how it compares to our Ryv 1.6's for flight dynamics in challenging conditions. -paul maryland, usa

there should be a little loop on the across bridle and a pigtail (where you'd tie on your top flying line) attached to the down bridle leg. larkshead the loop onto the pigtail, it will form a little hinge area. you want this hinge, but not any bigger than about 3/4 of an inch. untie the other side and assemble it the same as this one just completed so both sides willl match.