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Wayne Dowler

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Everything posted by Wayne Dowler

  1. Yes Ralph - it's easy to do with 3 lines, if done at home. The Shook kit comes with 7 lines, 2 "T" connectors, and 2 caps prethreaded with 4 leads. All the lines were marked as pairs, but the long center one. 2 knots on each cap leg to adjust tension as needed. Yep - no distortion of the sail on assembly. Pretty sure the sticks are .125 hollow tubes, really very small, but plenty strong. Like I said in another post - using them to stiffen up my LE on a Zen and also trying them on an SUL for the same purpose. Jury still out on the SUL - verdict is a positive on the Zen.
  2. Even if you tangle - it's only short lines!! Using 20's-30's makes it pretty easy to sort out if the worst happens. NO FEAR!!
  3. No, no - the "bigger hammer" theory works best!!!
  4. Saw that he was on in FB chat - sent him a message
  5. He's just got back from a Detroit clinic, so it might be a while before he gets this!
  6. Happens here too! Click a topic and get a memory error message. Not always, but enough to be a pain!!
  7. His problem - too many people!!! Impossible to fly on narrow beaches with people all over. Now with the beaches empty - his kite season can start!
  8. Yes a strong frame (4 wrap in a std non- vented sail) means that the sail has to absorb all the pressure, the frame very little. That's why you usually see pix of Revs with a bit of bend in the LE. That bent LE actually helps the kite to take pressure and convert it to lift. Having no flex in the frame means that the sail does all the work, and therefore can stretch, because there is no give in the frame. Adding longer leaders to the top of your handles can let you "square up" the sail to the wind. As they come from the factory, the kite is almost locked into the "drive" position. Ever have a gust come along and just make your kite take off? Longer leaders that allow you to lengthen the top lines, help end this problem. They allow more control - a big selling point with Revs! Here's some info on this idea: http://www.revkites.com/forum/topic/4409-my-leaders-your-thoughts/
  9. With the 2 sails - you should have most winds covered now. Not the extremes on both ends, but just about everything in between. What frames do you have? 2, 3, 4 wrap cover most all ranges. Or substitute a black race frame for the 2 wrap. Just be aware the race frame flexes and rebounds differently than the "wrap" frames. Not bad, just different!! Some like them, some don't - it's personal like, over just going with what you hear! Also remember, you can put any of the 1.5 frames in any of the 1.5 sails! I don't however, suggest using a 4 wrap in a std, it will put the sail in too much wind and possibly stretch it. Once stretched, it won't return to original shape! Rather if you feel a 4 wrap is needed in a std, put up the vented instead.It will handle the winds much better!
  10. Those of you that have been affected should go to their FB page and voice your concerns. Or put them here if you aren't on there. Just trying to further any discussion about how the product is handled!
  11. 9d88fdad95701a322aea1e130c5fcad9 "> Dear Rev Family, specifically Pro kite flyers.We are very happy for Bazzer and his new family and Life.We knew there... Posted by Revolution Kites on Tuesday, September 8, 2015
  12. Ask here? Try also GWTW swap meet and I'm sure some others. What's your price range?? Used kites are usually sold on a condition scale 1-10, 10 being new, 1 being trashed. Look or ask for something 7-8 on the scale, used but not worn out.
  13. The SLE is the older model of the 2 and has gone through many variations over the years. They used a Mylar panel in them at one time. Yes they now are made of nylon, "B"s are icarex. Having gone through so many changes, it's possible that at one time they were made of icarex. The frames are absolutely the same. Any 1.5 frame will interchange in any 1.5 sail, whether it is 2, 3, 4 wrap, black race, green race, diamond, etc! Every Rev will do all the same stuff - hover, invert fly, speed control, etc, but there are slightly different feels to each model. Sort of like cars. You get in a Ford and it feels one way, but you get in a Lincoln and it feels a bit different - same maker though. Those who fly them a lot (me) can feel subtle differences between the models. Those just learning or fly lots of different kite types, might not. JB might jump in here - he designed the "B" along with input from Bazzer, and explain some of the differences between models.
  14. Remember there is no one place on the leaders for everyone. But it should feel different with longer top leaders - think golf. Hardest thing to make change? Grip on club. Feel!!
  15. Remember - your lines are what they are - let's say 30'. The only way to make them longer? ADD to them. Example: Bottom is attached 2" from handle end = 30'2" Tops are say 6" away from handle end = 30'6" or 4" of difference, tops to bottoms.
  16. Try reading this: http://www.revkites.com/forum/topic/4409-my-leaders-your-thoughts/ It has pix and some explanation. The theory is to have a longer top set of leaders, allowing for more adjustments. Notice the knots on top? Factory leaders are short, creating massive drive, but no control. Having the ability to adjust the tops, lets you take advantage of what conditions you face. Many of us fly on a knot some 6"-7" away from the top of the handle and 1"-2" at the bottom. It's not the distance that counts - but the differential between the top and bottom lengths! Example #1 - you could be using the knot 6" out on top, but using a knot 4" out on bottom, That equals only a 2" difference. Example #2 - you use the same knot on top, 6" out and have the bottom 2" out. That equals a difference of 4". Set the bottom at 1" and the difference is 5". Factory handles use the same leaders top and bottom - at least the SLE + EXP do, the "B" series has extended leaders. But even they aren't as long as most of us would like! So we make our own and can customize them to our own specific feel. PS: yes - you can pull in the bottoms and do the same. Depends on how long the tops are and how short you are willing to attach the bottoms to the handle. Clear as mud??
  17. You have just described why most Rev pilots have multiple sails - matching equipment to conditions, In the SLE series, having a full sail and a full vent, will usually give you enough overlap in wind range. That will allow you to fly in most conditions. 3wrap is correct, several have tried covers. The disadvantage is weight added. You wanted a light wind sail, adding weight takes away from that. As an alternative, try asking around for a good used full sail. The reason most don't use the thicker SLE rodset - no flex! Every one of the 1/4" rods has flex, right through to the 4 wrap. The SLE tubes, if they have any, don't have much. That flex = control! And that is the Rev's real advantage. On when to use a 4 wrap? Up to you. Watch your leading edge - if it bends more than you are comfortable with - switch! Even if it is just the leading edge! Although a lot of pressure is actually on the vertical rods! Sometimes if you think the wind will build - use the heavier verts, then switch out the LE later. Tricks of the trade! Some of us (myself) will switch kites before frames, once you get used to it, it is pretty fast. But many use so called "hybrid frames", a mix of several different rod flexes, so try stuff, experiment. Nice thing about the Rev - there is no right or wrong - just what works for you!!
  18. LOL !! Most don't understand indoor flying, only outside. So remember - you can't fly into the wind!!
  19. Just remember to keep the wind at your back!!!
  20. If they came with a 1.5 RTF package - most likely 13". Remember - they are measured before bending, then bent, and the finished product is something less than 13". When it comes to comparing your self to JB and his ways - remember - You are watching and learning from one of the world's best fliers, hands down! He does things I only dream of doing. And I consider myself pretty good at this! It's all about how YOU feel!!! About the home built - what sail did you use as the pattern? What did you frame it with? Might contribute to it's characteristics.
  21. Indoor handles are 14", outdoor ones are 11", 13", 15" from the factory. All are measured before bending - meaning 11" before bending = 10" now after bending, You lose approximately an inch with the bend. Some use their outdoor 13" indoors easily - Watty being one I know, the other being Penny L.. In general, longer handles give you more leverage, good up to a point and then that extra leverage works against you as the wind builds. I myself use 13", 14", and 15" outdoors, and indoor handles indoors!! Measure yours and round up to the odd inch to see what you have. PS: I had my outdoor handles made for me - they use a slightly shallower bend than the stock outdoor handles. A bit of extra brake built in!
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